cgsheen

You have that wired correctly. The "top" of the T is +12v at IGN ON (BW wire from ignition switch) and the "leg" of the T is pin 5 of the ECU. ( there are two YW wires on connector 2 ( plug 2 ) on opposite sides of the plug - just be sure you're on the correct wire when attaching to connector 2)

The stock L28ET ECU sends the signal to fire the coil out pin 5. On the stock ZXT harness, it goes from Pin 5 on the ECU to Connector (plug) #2 (8-pin connector near the ECU - Y/W on the side with: N/C, YW, Y, GL) and from that connector straight to the ignitor. The other side of the stock connector at the ignitor is +12V (BW) from the ignition switch @ IGN ON which powers the ignitor and the coil (BW from ignitor to coil+).

OK, but I don't use MS and don't ever plan to... But, I wouldn't mind using the COP engine management from a J30, Z32, or the like (something I could NISTune) on my L28ET. I need to talk to Bernardd...

I always forget about NicoClub - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ - as a resource for Factory Service Manuals (sorry Greg). Lots of FSM's there too. Turbine, Forced Induction, Compressed Air...

Sort of. Smaller optical disc, and the 4 pins come out the side (exit in the same plane), not the bottom (not at a 90 degree angle to the circuit board as the L28ET module does). There has to be a better way to use one of these on an L28ET other than milling a spacer and modifying the end of the spindle so you can bolt a cam angle sensor (from a J30, or an RB or a VQ) in it's entirety onto the L28. (or is there - and I just missed it...)

Go to xenons30.com / reference section and download the Factory Service Manual for both of your cars: The '77 280Z and the 280ZX. I'd suggest the '82 FSM for the engine and associated parts - I think it's a little easier to follow than the '83 FSM. Get all - can't hurt. First, if you're using the stock ECCS system, don't "leave anything off" unless you completely understand how it's going to affect how your engine runs. You can't go in and tune that ECU to compensate. My opinion, but if experience holds, you're probably going to be chasing a few gremlins and you may not need the gremlins thrown in by deleting components confusing things. Get it running properly stock first, then get the info on what and when to change. 1. You need a coil and ignitor but not necessarily the stock items if they're unavailable to you. Search the Forums for "GM HEI module" - it's a ~$30 part used on Chevettes (and Corvettes) that can be wired in place of the stock ignitor. Simple, cheap, works well. 2. That's the Vacuum Control Module (VCM) - it controls both the A.A.C Valve and the EGR Valve - info in the Factory Service Manual. 3. Fusable Link box from the 280ZX. You have a couple of those near the battery of your Z - covered with white lids - 2 fusable links in each one. Your choice to wire power to the ECCS system: Use the 280ZX fusable links for power to the ECCS or figure out how to wire the G and Br ECCS power wires into your fusable link... You should understand both the wiring diagram for your Z AND the 280ZX ECCS and it's interface with the body of the ZX... Factory Service Manual.

Well, you may be thinking of it the wrong way round... The Black/White wire is energized by the ignition switch at IGN ON and generally goes on to power EFI relay, coil, ignitor on turbo cars, and various and sundry other things. The source voltage comes from a White/(usually) Black (sometimes White/Red) from the battery and/or alternator output - to the switch... If you have voltage on the source wire, but no voltage on the B/W when you turn the IGN switch to the ON position, signs would point to a bad Ignition switch. That should all be in the FSM for your particular model.

Your air filter isn't downstream of the AFM is it?

happened to me too last night about that time...

The CHTS isn't the only component in the system. I'm saying - if the CHTS and wiring test good back to the ECU, something else is your problem. Troubleshoot the rest of the system like you did the CHTS - you're on the right track, but don't get fixated on one thing. (general knowledge part of this post - the ECU polls the CHTS to know when the engine is cold and when it's warmed up. at a certain CHTS temp (listed in the FSM), the ECU will try closed loop mode operation. in closed loop the ECU will start to poll the O2 Sensor and make injector pulse calculations based on the CAS, temp sensors, AFM, and O2 sensor values under certain operating conditions (that would normally be thought of as "cruise" conditions - these are also listed in the FSM). Otherwise it's always running on it's "base map". there is no "limp mode" - unless you consider it's base map a limp mode - the stock ECU isn't that smart...)

awesome - I gotta save that link, where did you find it? I'm working on more and more electrical problems these days...

The AAC capped off / not operable will cause a lower RPM and enrichen your idle.

You need to test every part of the ECCS system, go through the troubleshooting steps in the FSM. If the CHTS resistance checks out, check the connectors and wiring all the way back to the ECU, then troubleshoot the rest of the components and wiring.

Look at all that oxidation on the female side. New connector time. It would have to be the 9-pin connector... Either way you go, that's a lot of splicing.

And you don't really need Quest rear studs - the rear studs on every early Z are the about the same length as the Quest - I used rears for the front too... We have a really well stocked - been here since the stone age - Ace Hardware near here that carries a huge variety of bolts & nuts. We found longer bolts for the rotors there. Or any good bolt and nut supplier. I can't remember the thread and pitch, but you have the orginal bolt, and the spacer adds about 3/8", right?...

Looks like the Green/White and Green/Blue were the two affected. It also looks as if those are the running ("park") lights - activated by the first turn of the light stalk. Were they on during your engine revving? For now, cut them (the two wires) off each side of the connectors and crimp on a male bullet connector on one side and a female bullet connector on the other side and plug everything back together. (or use male and female spades - just be sure the connector you use is covered so that once connected, no metal is exposed to short out the connection) If you can, get some DeOxIt (Deoxit) and spray all the metal pins and sockets on all the connectors before you put them back together. Check to see that everything works and the wiring isn't heating up. It may have been resistance in the connector itself, but you may need to check the wiring, connectors, grounds, bulbs, switch, and etc. on the running lamp system... You can decide later if you want / need to replace that 9-pin connector and it's wiring.

I'm going to have to try that...

another thing to think about with primer: If you use light gray primer and black over the top, paint chips are very likely to show the primer... Might be better to go with a dark gray primer and guide coat it with light gray or white. Personally I'd seal it after it's primed. Primer is soft and it'll pick up / soak up greases, oils, and contaminants that will probably cause paint reactions when you get around to spraying it. It you leave it uncovered for long you'll need to sand much of the primer off (maybe even reprime) before you paint - besides cleaning it with a good surface prep product. If you seal it 2K, you should be able to scuff it, clean it with surface prep, and be ready to spray...

Here's a pic of Goldie, but I don't know how that helps you... "ride height" is gonna depend on more than your set of coilovers. You need to tuck wheels and tires in there. This car has 225/50 16's - my Son has told be the size and offset of these Rota Grid wheels about 200 times - I just never remember (I know they're 16's, just not the width and offset... Offset here would be sorta important to know.) The lip on the wheel arches front and back have been folded back ("fender rolled" - not with a fender roller but the result is basically the same). The frame in the center of the car is about 4.25" off the ground and it's fairly level. I have about another 1.5 (maybe 2) inches of drop left in the coilover. (I'll never use it, I think this is too low...) Maybe that helps. --------- Mack says the spring rates on this kit are 6K front 5K rear (that's about 335# in the front, right?). I didn't really understand the OP's "bouncy" description - that's not how I'd describe mine at all. I like the feel - quite firm but not too harsh - I'm old and drive it every day.

Oohhh... Noooo... Scrap the stock ECCS system! Do the VG30e ECCS from the get-go. I wish I'd done that - countless hours spent on the stock engine management that I'll never get back. I went Infiniti M30 (F31), wonderful electronics for the time - SO much better than stock.

Or... Just replace the CAS optical module in your distributor. Can't find one for an L28ET? Or, too expensive? Go to the pick-a-part and find a late 80's early 90's Nissan with a distributor model VG30e (3 liter V6 engine). Infiniti M30, Nissan Maxima, 300ZX... The optical module in any of those will drop in the L28ET distributor. Oh... Don't tell anyone else, most people think that isn't possible. Pull the cap and rotor, remove the protective metal plate, unscrew the top mount for the stainless steel optical disc, remove the disc and it's lower mount (and associated brackets and washers). You'll see that the newer style optical module is encased in black plastic, mounted to the distributor body by 3 screws. The L28ET module is held in place by 3 screws that go UP through the bottom of the dist. The VG30e style are mounted such that the screws go DOWN from the top of the module into the dist. body. That's the only difference. To mount one of those in your L28ET you'll need some long skinny bolts with nuts and washers that will go all the way through the distributor body and the optical module so you can put them down through both and get a washer and nut on the bottom of the distributor... The Infiniti M30 FSM describes how to test the CAS - you need to remove the distributor so you can turn it by hand. The 4 wires that go to the CAS are these: Red = +12v, Black = GND, White & Green are signal wires - one is the 60 degree signal (six slits in the circle), one is the 1 degree signal (360 slits in the circle). As the optical wheel turns the slits allow light to pass (while the solid metal blocks the light). When the optical sensor gets light it sends a 5v signal, no light = 0 volts... If you pull the dist, turn the IGN to ON and spin the dist by hand you can test the output on the white and green wires with a meter. As you turn, you should get alternating +5v and 0v. The 60 degree signal should be easy. The 1 degree could be more difficult - you'll need to turn slowly and carefully as 1 degree will probably happen very quickly... My point? make sure the optical module is bad and that it's not something else causing your problems... Electrical can be a nightmare on these - but you already know that, don't you. I haven't told you that I was raised in Idaho Falls have I? Haven't lived there since 1972 though... Been back any number of times, but now that my Parents have passed and I don't have any more Family there, not much reason to go.

You should put up pics then we'd be sure, but I'm pretty sure you found the Tach resistor. I think you got the wrong wire though. Did you look at the FSM for your '77? Pretty sure the Blue comes from the coil and the Blue/white goes to the Tach. (yup - just looked at the FSM (Body Electrical, page 31)... Connect your new blue wire to the blue wire on the resistor and reconnect the blue/white, it goes to the tach.) So, wiring goes like this: Blue (from "-" side of coil) --> blue on resistor --> resistor --> blue/white out of resistor --> tach.

This diagram in the FSM shows the EFI and Fuel Pump Relay in simple terms. Doesn't need to be more complicated than that. Pin 16 on the ECU is "the trigger" for the relay. It's the Lr (Blue/Red) wire from pin 16 to the 6-pin "connector 3" on the stock ZXT harness. Do this however suits your wiring setup: Blue/Red from pin 16 connects to the fuel pump relay coil. The other side of the relay coil goes to GND. IIRC "connector 3" in the ZXT ends up near the battery (or firewall penetrations on the passenger side) - and that's where I put mine. That's near where my fuel pump relay is, so it's a short hop from connector 3 to the relay. Doesn't matter, you just need to run a wire between pin 16 on the ECU to the coil on the fuel pump relay...

Nope. And, just so you know, I've done multiple swaps (other cars, not just mine) - used both types of harnesses. Currently I'm using neither - my "new" engine management is from a 1990 Infiniti M30...

4. Ya... Sort of... In the ZX there's a positive battery connection to that black box (the fusable link holder). The Fusable Links connect to that, the Br & G wires connect to the Fusable Links. Personally, I used the black box - left the sockets for the two ECCS fusable links and the Br & G wires in place (mounted the black box to my firewall) and just spliced the +12V "feed" wire into the positive side wiring on the battery. (Or, get a circular electrical connector of an appropriate size and connect it to the starter - same place the positive battery connection is attached) But, the point is: Positive side of battery --> fusable link (or fuse) --> Br wire |__ --> fusable link (or fuse) --> G wire 3. Get under the passenger side of the dash. Find the square (rectangular really) Tach Resistor - It'll be just outside the taped up dash harness (so a person can change it). It doesn't look like a resistor at all - it looks like a small plastic box with 2 wires coming out one side. The signal from the Ignitor needs to go through the resistor before it goes to the Tach. Find which of the wires come from the engine bay (there will be 2 wires attached to the resistor). Cut the wire that comes from the engine bay and replace it with the new blue wire you just pulled through the firewall. Voila! Tach signal... 2. My advice: Run the power feed from the fuel pump relay straight to the fuel pump. Let the ECU and only the ECU control the fuel pump operation. On my Z, that just meant hooking the feed from the relay to the existing pump wiring right there in the passenger footwell. I'd advise getting rid of any other modifications to the pump wiring. 1. I don't know that I quite understand what you did with what would normally be the condenser and it's wiring between the coil and distributor... But: - The engine will run without the condenser. - If you don't have a condenser, there's no reason to connect the wiring to the distributor - The condenser is to help eliminate electrical noise - helping the ECU "hear" what the sensors are telling it without a lot noise getting in the way. Get one when you can and install it & wire it up to the dist. - until then, don't worry about not having one and don't make that wiring connection! (IIRC one side of the condenser is attached to the +12v IGN signal at the coil and the other goes to GND on the distributor body. You don't want a wire between those two points without the condenser in between!) On the Coil/Ignitor harness. It doesn't matter where you pick up the +12V IGN ON (BW wire) - spliced in near the IGN switch - OR whether you use the one your old coil used. It just needs battery voltage (no ballast resistor) at IGN ON. (I spliced it in near the IGN switch because I had the ZX coil/ignitor harness all bundled up so I took all that wiring through the firewall and made connections under the driver dash. It also made it simple to trace and I knew exactly where my coil power was coming from...)