Jump to content
HybridZ

cgsheen

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    672

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen
    Thanks for the compliment on the camber plates Ernie. Glad to help. The tips on the website aren't complete, but they're a few helpful facts that we've found installing and aligning the Stance-USA adapters. You can't really just set them down on the hub and assume the alignment will be correct. Give me a holler if you have any questions.
  2. cgsheen
    They just slide on. No need to press or hammer. You'll need to align them as shown on our website while you tack them in place. Then double check their alignment before you weld.
  3. cgsheen
    Here in town, Roman is using 6K's on his late 280Z. He isn't slow, but he is slammed! You can see a pic of his car on our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension (in the picture rotation, it's the orange 280Z with flares)
  4. cgsheen
    1972 240Z Factory Service Manual - Brakes - BR-19 (page 19, under Hand Brake) Don't have it? Download it at xenons30.com or my favorite: http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals
  5. cgsheen
    Pull the plug on the CHTS and check the resistance again. (Use the 20K Ohm scale on your multimeter) Plug it back in. Go to the ECU plug. Check the resistance between pin 23 and pin 26 - should be fairly close to the resistance value you just measured at the CHTS. If it's not, you have a wiring problem. Back to basics: The CHTS is a "thermistor" - a resistor who's value changes with heat. At about 70 degrees F it should read close to 2.5K Ohms. (Look at the scale in the FSM - @ 68F value should be 2.1-2.9K Ohms) The resistance value will drop with heat, rise as it cools. At operating temp it should be close to 0.3K Ohms. If your CHTS isn't giving you the same "temperature vs. resistance" numbers that the FSM chart shows, you have a sensor problem. @Bitchin... Those values would be about right if the ambient (or sensor) temp was ~95-100 degrees or so. Warm up there?
  6. cgsheen
    In the top photo you have the large washer installed backwards - the "cup" should be facing the hub, not the bushing. You should seriously consider NOT using all 4 poly bushings - as was mentioned above. Ask me how I know... I was up in the hills on a tight, twisty, 2-lane road.
  7. cgsheen
    Good Grief. GI-2.pdf That's straight from the 1976 Factory Service Manual. Although you can't be absolutely sure someone didn't swap in something else over the years. Like "stravi757" said though, the R200 looks quite a bit different than the R180. Especially in the rear cover.
  8. cgsheen
    Why not refer to the Bible - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1976/ General Information (Section "GI"), page 2.
  9. cgsheen
    Yup, just did one a couple of weeks ago.
  10. cgsheen
    Well... I have an old Megan set on my Son's S13 - the slots are 60mm exactly center-to center. The weld-on camber plates that I got from Mack McKinney with his Megan/McKinney kit are exactly 55mm center-to-center. The Stance-USA pillow block mounts are 58mm center-to-center. I have no experience with others so far - a "universal" spec would be nice. (and none of the Megan blocks I have here match either dimension they post on their website... One being 2 3/16" and the other 2 3/8")
  11. cgsheen
    Those were the words I was looking for!
  12. cgsheen
    exactly... It's not really the sequential injection I'm after, the '90's Nissan ECU's are just much better. My main point on your swap is: Don't do the engine management twice and don't go through the pain of dealing with the stock ECCS harness and parts if you can avoid it. I'm not pushing a VG30 solution here - I'm pushing an "anything but stock" solution...
  13. cgsheen
    The downfall of using a z31 ECU is plugging it into a stock L28ET harness. And the temptation seems too great for most. The ECU is a small part of the equation IMO. Most of the grief you'll encounter will have nothing to do with the ECU and everything to do with the harness, wiring, connectors...
  14. cgsheen
    They're designed for the Stance-USA pillow block. (they send us their "half moon" style pillow block) IDK if they'll work with another. I do know that the slots on the Megan pillow block have different spacing. I'm making an assumption that other pillow blocks may also have their own slot pattern. I can get you the dimensions of our slot spacing to see if they might work with another pillow block. The economics of buying the Stance-USA pillow blocks seperately (as opposed to getting them as part of a complete kit) is the reason we don't sell the Camber Plates by themselves. Thanks for the compliment!
  15. cgsheen
    I'll never put a stock ECCS harness and engine management on an L28ET again. I learned that lesson 3 or 4 times over now. If you plan on pushing the engine past stock, don't even fiddle with the stock harness or a Z31 ECU. Set it up with a tunable engine management system from the start (megasquirt, VG30e ECU with NIStune, or one of the many others.). Otherwise you'll be going through that PAIN twice (at least twice - maybe more...) What am I saying... Even if you don't plan on pushing the engine past stock, don't fiddle with the stock harness. You'd think that throwing on the stock harness and "getting it running first" would be the simple thing to do. (I'll sit here and snicker while you do that... (with love, of course - because I've been there...)) You spend a large-to-huge amount of time doing that, then you'll spend it again when you decide to bag the stock crap and install something that works well. Just my "Fatherly" advice - and I won't be offended, my kids rarely listen to me either (except in this regard - my youngest has already jetisoned the stock engine management on his '76 280 with L28ET and my oldest Son will have a completely custom engine management system on the L28ET he's putting in his '72 240.)
  16. cgsheen
    Transmission will work, just make sure you get all of the auto pieces gone and all the manual bits off the old engine onto the new. Don't forget a pilot bushing. The re-wiring you'll have to do will be EFI (engine) harness to body harnesses. And it shouldn't be that bad if you can follow the circuit diagrams from the two Factory Service Manuals you'll need - one for the '78 280Z and one for the '81 280ZX. If you don't have them go to xenons30.com (early Z), xenons130.com (280ZX) OR nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals The EFI harness is mostly self-contained, but it has a few non-EFI related connections (coolant temp gauge wiring and etc.). And you'll need to check power supply, and fuel pump operation for changes between the two models (maybe ignition). Changes shouldn't be dramatic...
  17. cgsheen
    The needle is attached to a shaft that is attached to a steel cup that rides in close proximity to a magnet that is spun by the cable. (when the magnet spins, it acts on the metal cup causing it to spin even though there is no direct connection) Open the speedo and you'll see. The needle won't turn if the shaft or cup is buggered up. The Odometer is run by gears that are driven by the cable, The cable, Odo gears, and the magnet can all turn without the needle moving. Or the magnet may not be spinning...
  18. cgsheen
    no, just remember your user name and password. You'll be able to get right back on the Forum. All of your previous settings & posts will still be here...
  19. cgsheen
    You'll also find that optical disc (chopper wheel) in the 1990-1992 Infiniti M30 and the Nissan Maxima of that era (early VG30 - distributor type).
  20. cgsheen
    The slave cylinder is a very simple mechanism. If you can't rebuild it yourself, get one from a local source. Easier to warranty if you ever have problems. Or, as mentioned above, lifetime warranty - free part from down the block whenever you need one...
  21. cgsheen
    Shoulda painted that engine bay... (whadda ya expect from a paint-shop guy) Oh well. You know how to pull that thing out and put it back again...
  22. cgsheen
    Awesome.
  23. cgsheen
    Sorry, we're not currently selling the camber plates seperately. I'll PM you about weld-on adapters.
  24. cgsheen
    Thanks for the heads-up Ryan. What did you use to access the site? Just looked it all over on my Desktop and couldn't spot a problem using IE. I'll PM you. I'd appreciate info like this in a PM rather than adding to this thread.
  25. cgsheen
    Geeez... Buy it. Just keep it out of that Utah Winter and off those salted roads. When you get it running, take it up through my old Home Town - Idaho Falls - then up the back way to Jackson Hole. You know how to get back to Logan from there...
×
×
  • Create New...