ZHoob2004

No direct experience, but I remember seeing a guy build a welding table that had removable slats for just that. The table top was just rectangular tubing slats with a few inches gap between each of them, then they could be unbolted and removed to allow bends to hang through the table while welding.

If the block wasn't decked, then it should still fit if it's assembled in the right order. If the block was decked, the timing cover should have been decked with it. I did the exact same thing when I was reassembling my motor a few months back, but it all went together fine once I loosened the head and did things the right way. I don't have any input on longevity being affected, since I have less than 10 hours of runtime since I finished assembly and installation. I reused the head gasket when I did this, since I don't think torquing a head should suddenly make a head gasket "used", but I'm also not using MLS right now, and it's not that inconvenient to do a head gasket on these motors.

Is the head already torqued down? I've tried to put the head on first before and it wasn't happening. I had to pull it off and do the timing cover first. Essentially, timing cover needs to happen before head or oil pan, since both bolt to it.

Sounds like the shop might have used too large of a press tool and it expanded the sleeve in the control arms. When I pressed mine out in the rear a chunk of the sleeve actually broke off and came out with the bushing because of how stuck it was. I replaced that arm and cooked the rest out before using the press. What part of AZ are you in? I might have a pair of front control arms sitting around, if I can remember where I left them.

R200 swap requires: 1 - differential 2 - R200 mustache bar 3 - matching axles Driveshaft should bolt up. It may be possible to use your existing axles, but I can't say for sure. Depending what you're looking for, you may be better suited by the Subaru STI R180 swap which would use your existing mustache bar, but require axle adapters on the diff side.

If I recall I got my rebuild parts off of rockauto.com, but I don't think I got needles with them. I believe the needles are interchangeable between the round-top and flat-top carbs, so ztherapy might be a good source for those, or I have also heard of importing SU parts from the UK, but I have not yet confirmed this for myself. Here's a comment I made on reddit regarding the flat tops:

If it hasn't been rotated since you put the head on you should still be at TDC, but it's still possible you've moved it, especially when putting on the timing chain. My guess is you're a degree or so off. If it still doesn't line up any better, I'd probably call it good enough.

Have you verified your engine is actually at TDC? Your damper or timing marks could easily be off a few degrees. Enough to give you the results you're seeing. Verify TDC with a piece of aluminum rod or a piston stop in the #1 plug and then go from there.

Aren't the intake ports basically the same minus the injector notches and possibly the port sizes? (Should be within a few mm) What I'd do is take that model into fusion or solidworks and just use the 2d drawing of the mating surface and edit the notches out. Print it 100% scale and see how it fits.

I should add that I'm hoping to eventually go ETB when I go back to EFI on my L28, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about pedal and throttle body yet.

Off the top of my head I recall the mightycarmods Z used drive by wire using a BRZ/86 throttle pedal, but I'm not sure what throttle body they used. Nissan seems to have maintained the same throttle body bolt pattern for a number of decades, but I'm not sure if the electronic throttle bodies are the same. If they are, you can grab basically any ETB off a Nissan from this decade in whatever size you want. Of course, check with haltech docs to make sure whatever you end up with is supported or that they're willing to add support.

They shouldn't even be able to post in the FAQ section. I feel like something is misconfigured (or perhaps just bugged) in the current version of the forum. Related is the broken posts when the title contains certain special characters

There's a kit for sale if you're looking to go that way

If I recall correctly, the reason it's not as desirable is because the lifters are NLA. They can be converted to solid, but I'm not sure about any of the details of the process.

MightyCarMods on YouTube used a shortnose R200 from an R34 in their 240z build. They used all TechnoToyTuning parts. I believe this was the video where they do the diff install, but they may talk more about the parts in a previous video.

According to my 77 factory service manual (you can download this, check google), the fuel pressure is supposed to be 36.3psi relative to your intake manifold. Subtract the approximately 10psi of vacuum you should have at idle (~20in hg estimated), that gives you the 26 you're reading on the gauge. I think your fuel pressure is working just fine and your problem is elsewhere and raising the fuel pressure is simply masking the real issue. Have your injectors ever been serviced, and have you checked that they aren't clogged? EDIT: Have you checked your cold start valve/system? It has basically the same function as a temperature-controlled choke, but instead of restricting air it just adds extra fuel to the intake manifold while cold.

Have you actually measured fuel pressure? I had a similar issue with running lean and it turned out to be restriction on the fuel pump inlet caused by an inline pre-filter. Removing that immediately fixed the lean issue.

I see it now. I find it surprising that a 3/4" difference per side is enough to keep the sway bar from bolting up

Is that your T/C rod attached to your sway bar end link?

Could be 240sx, but I thought the shifter was different on those. It's different in the picture I linked. Maybe a late 70s or early 80s truck?

KA24DE? If so, there are a few people around that can cut and weld the front case with an auto L series case and make it fit.

Based on the updated diagram I think what you have is about the best you can do right now. I believe the way the coolant is flowing is it's coming out of the thermostat housing, passing through the turbo and looping back to the water inlet, effectively doing the job of the original bypass line. As-is I believe you're taking warmer coolant from the thermostat and looping it back into your water pump, but I don't know where else you could get coolant flow from. Maybe from the block coolant drain near cylinder #6 and return to the thermostat housing? Someone with more experience with turbo L series could probably shed some light on the best setup.

I'm not sure what running your turbo coolant lines like that is supposed to accomplish. As far as I can see, you've got a loop taking coolant from your lower rad hose (the coolest part of the system, but also the lowest pressure) and cycling it... right back to where it started in the water inlet... This configuration makes me think the turbo isn't really being water-cooled at all, because I can't imagine the water circulating through any process except convection, and probably not very well at that. The way I would run it is take coolant from the thermostat housing, go through the turbo, and then return through the water pump inlet. That way, theoretically, the water pump should circulate coolant through the center section of the turbo, and when you shut the car off convection can draw coolant through the turbo. I would leave the plug at the back of the head if you're not running a heater, as this is the hottest coolant in the engine. In the future, you may wish to add the #6 and #5 coolant bypass mod which draws hot coolant from the rear of the head and brings it to the thermostat housing to reduce detonation.

Depends on location. I've bought 2 running L28E in the past few years for a few hundred each. I think $200 and $300. Also depends on block/head combination. Early and late heads are more desirable, while the something like the N47 maybe not so much. Block depends on what the buyer wants. IIRC the N47 is stronger (contrary to common wisdom) but the F54 cools better, but I'm not sure that extra cooling really makes much difference.

Iron bolts can be dissolved with alum (the spice). Never tried it, but seen it mentioned before for removing bolts from aluminum.