ZHoob2004

The default RT mount setup from technoversions (polyurethane snubber up top) works well with an OEM mount on the bottom, and, in my opinion, provides the best of both worlds for performance/noise. The pressure on the upper poly mount is low when just cruising, but it's there to keep the nose of the diff from lifting under acceleration. When under no load/engine braking, the diff pushes down on the OEM mount and doesn't transfer any additional vibration through the poly mount up top. I believe I've also seen a setup using the RT mount where the energy suspension mount was bolted to the top of the diff with the OEM mount bolted to the bottom, and both installed, but I think that's a bit excessive myself.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wipermotor/index.htm

Is that even a factory bracket? I scoured google images looking at 240 and 260 radiator supports and I didn't see that on any of them. Maybe an intercooler mount? Bumper swap? Radiator ducts?

I'm a bit curious about why you're planning such extensive modifications to a car it doesn't sound like you've even driven... If you want a 280z, get it and drive it, then decide if it's lacking. Some parts of these cars need modernization, like the electrical system, but most changes come with a lot of compromise. It's easy to get into the thinking that "newer is better", but that's not necessarily true. Buy the car. Drive the car. Change the car. (optional)

I don't think that input shaft is particularly bad. Mine was a lot worse and didn't have any vibration issues like you're having. I suppose if you want to try, I think that wobble is mostly caused by the needle bearing that keeps the input shaft concentric to the output shaft. Mine for comparison https://i.imgur.com/kn92ETY.mp4

Yeah that's the mod. Here's the thread where most/all of that was developed I don't remember if it's in the same thread or not, but I recall some testing being done on an engine dyno with lower coolant temperatures and they were able to get noticeable increases by lowering coolant temperature overall, which they attributed to reducing detonation in 5 and 6, suggesting the use of the "tropical" thermostat for performance engines.

This is my reasoning for going hot NA with my build. I'm about at that power/weight ratio now in my daily so if I can get near/above 200 with a cam and compression that should keep me busy for a while (at least that's what I've been telling myself.) For reference, my build is stock flat top bottom end with an Isky l-490, valve springs, and retainers on a shaved P79.

I'd be inclined to go option 1, but I lean more towards the DIY/"budget" side of things. I don't think cast pistons are the weak link many claim, you just have to keep detonation under control. The 5-6 head cooling mod is a well established method to reduce detonation in the rear cylinders, and is a must for this build. Another thing to consider is, how willing are you to open the engine again if it doesn't meet your goals? Cylinder head work is relatively easy with the engine in the car, but it's easier still to do before the engine is in. Bottom end is doable in place, but hardly worth it.

Ok, so you just modified the original, that's cool. Have you noticed any flex in the latch while driving? Is it only held on by the two upper bolts? Mine is a bit too mangled for that (and I wasn't particularly gentle in removing it once I decided it had to go), so I would have to make the whole thing from scratch. The box design looks pretty good, is it open from the bottom? The current plan is to clone this https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic13/10-1873 (because I think that's a little steep for two chunks of steel)

Build looks nice. Any info on the hood latch you have? I cut mine off because it was pretty mangled and I'm looking around for a good replacement or if I should just fabricate my own.

How will it lower their shock travel if they're simply lowering it back to factory height? (as long as they don't run into coil bind from running too soft of springs)

OK, I got bored on my lunch break and decided to look into this further. It appears the 78 model year differs rather significantly in this area, and you should disregard basically everything I said. It appears that the 78 cars already utilize an oil pressure switch from the factory, and the system is basically done for you. Nissan seems to have just ignored the switch in the AFM and instead actuate the fuel pump via a combination of the oil pressure switch and whether or not the alternator is producing power, meaning you will lose fuel if you lose either oil pressure or alternator voltage (which I think is supposed to ensure your water pump is running). Besides removing the EFI harness, I'm not sure you even need to do anything except turn the key.

EDIT: The following information is for 77 (and prior) cars, the 78 is quite different in this area. If I recall from when I removed my EFI harness, there is a plug (maybe two) underneath the dash on the driver's side that connect the EFI harness to the rest of the electrical system. Besides that and the two wires to the battery, I don't think there are any other connections you need to worry about. Take a look at this wiring diagram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf That is for a 77, but it should be mostly accurate and should give you an idea of the way the system works. The diagram for the 78 was broken, and 77 is in color. The 6-pin connector on the bottom just left of center is the one I'm thinking of. IIRC this is the only connection between the two harnesses and carries ignition on and fuel pump positive. I think everything you need is right there, connection wise. You just need to add a relay (and possibly an oil pressure switch). Also I recommend you run a return line on your fuel system because it's already there and you'll have more consistent fuel temperatures making for easier tuning.

Another reference if you haven't yet seen it. Here is the 280z fuel injection "bible" that you will sometimes see referenced. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

What year vehicle? I assume 75+ because EFI. What are you planning for your fuel pump? Mechanical? Electric near the tank? How about any kind of automatic shut-off? By default (at least on my 77) the fuel pump is switched on by the flap in the AFM and also while cranking. This way, the pump doesn't run unless the engine is running. I've seen a number of users with electric pumps mirror this setup, except with an oil pressure switch instead of the AFM flap, which will work with both carbs and EFI.

For most/all parts, you're probably on your own to measure and model the stock parts. A lot of the work has probably already been done, but by individuals and organizations that sell parts for these cars, and they probably aren't too inclined to share. With vehicles of this vintage, you're probably better off making your own measurements anyway.

70lbs for the 280z doors (especially the late years) wouldn't surprise me. Both my doors are bare right now but I'll try to remember to weigh them when they get back together. The car is also currently a bare tub (with rear suspension and diff) so it wouldn't be much work to get a weight for an almost stock 77 shell.

Z Car Source has them available for 70-72 and 78 and they all look the same minus the year. Should be a good source to duplicate one, or you can ask them and maybe they'll produce a '75 version for you. https://zcarsource.com/decal-tune-up-emissions EDIT: Actually looks like zcarsource used the same preview for all 4, and the later ones look different. Here's a '78 example, I imagine the '75 looks more like this but it would be nice to get some confirmation https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/tune-emission-decal-1978-datsun-280z

Tiny picture, but do you mean the hardline that bridges the intake manifold near the carb mounting flanges?

They got popular.

Do you have a link for those headlight adjuster clips? I'm just finishing up painting and will likely do something similar to my headlights and it would be nice to have parts on the way.

PETG prints pretty easily if it's fresh, but it's pretty hygroscopic so you need to keep it sealed and dry until you use it. It is a lot stringier than pla, and is a bit unforgiving if your printer isn't calibrated properly. Layer squish needs to be just right or you'll have delamination issues or it will stick too hard to the bed. I've seen pictures where prints have taken chunks out of glass beds because the PETG stuck too well.

Yeah I would prototype with PLA, and then do the finished pieces in ABS or PET. Probably want to do a lot of shells for rigidity. I've never actually tried acetone smoothing, but I would probably just give the layers a quick sanding and then fill in the difference with high-build primer. What are your plans for the reflective part of the mirror? Any ideas for adjustment?

Design looks interesting. It shouldn't really matter what material the mirrors are printed out of as long as it's strong enough to withstand the aerodynamic forces and temperature swings the car is likely to encounter. Personally, I would paint the plastic with an automotive paint and primer as part of the post-processing step, which will also help to hide any layer lines that you don't get sanded out. TBH, this has given me the idea of designing and printing my own mirrors. Perhaps something close to the original long stalk fender mirrors.

Since the bolt is iron in aluminum, it's possible to dissolve the bolt straight out of the hole using an alum and water solution. There was a great video on this by AvE that I've previously linked to, but it appears to have been removed from youtube. Here's another version of the same thing (by the same guy) that covers the "science" of it.