ZHoob2004

Dumb question, but you didn't happen to install a 6 speed transmission, did you? You mention shifting straight from 5th to "R", but every transmission in 5 ever used won't let you do that without first returning to center. You also make no mention of what transmission you have, which will make identifying problems damn near impossible for the members that can help you.

Sounds like you had the right setup, so I'm not sure why you'd have these problems. What was your tightening torque? FSM specifies 87-116 lb-ft, I assume dry.

I think they're saying that the entire balancer and bolt are missing because the bolt backed out and the whole thing fell off and ran away down the road somewhere. I agree with newzed that it's probably an issue with the bolt and washer choice. The washer is really thick and rather unusual, and likely has a lot to do with proper bolt stretch. Also I think the threads are supposed to be clean and dry, but double check on that.

I have no idea if this is accurate, but I found this on Google

I'm pretty inexperienced with serpentine belt systems, but is there any reason this layout wouldn't work? I think my biggest concern with this is the lack of contact area and tension on the crank pulley, which experiences the most torque against the belt. Alternatively, you could potentially gut the power steering pump making it into another idler pulley.

This diagram is all you should need. The red "from ignition key" wire goes to your on/off switch and connects the wire to 12v power. The big wires go to your battery in some fashion. Orange/black go to your coil. Violet/green go to your distributor pickup. This is a completely self contained system and all you need to do is tell it to turn on (with the thin red wire) Your starter button should only connect to the starter solenoid (and maybe a relay for your ballast resistor if you have one)

Regarding the clunk, do you know if you have an upgraded diff mount in the rear? I put in a Ron Tyler style mount (from Technoversions) as a replacement for the factory strap and it almost completely eliminated the clunk with no noticeable change in noise and vibration otherwise.

No it will not fit. At least not without significantly more effort than it is worth. The S30 and S130 are vastly different cars that happen to share an engine family and differential. No structural parts are interchangeable to my knowledge.

I ran into the glove box issue on my 77 as well. It seems the latch mechanism bends over time and makes it impossible to turn the knob far enough to open the latch. In my case, I think I just turned the knob as far as I could and then pried it open once I could see the catch, but you may have an easier time unscrewing the hinge from below and accessing the latch from behind. Interestingly enough, I also found a spare key while tearing my car down (although mine was in the gas tank). I also found another spare in the stuck glove box (probably put there after the first was dropped into the tank).

This happened in my 77. I didn't actually fix the problem, but unplugging the relay under the passenger seat got got rid of that problem. I can't remember what the relay is supposed to do, it might be related to it being a (former) automatic car.

Cruising near 4000 isn't necessarily a bad thing depending on where your motor is designed to operate. My daily Honda cruises 4200+ at around 75, but is happy to go much higher so I don't worry about it (besides the noise). I ran a few more numbers on your donor vs your car and the 240z has slightly taller tires than the m3 that almost completely cancel out the difference in final drive ratios. At 75mph, the M3 should have been turning 3250 rpm, while with a 3.36 rear end and 24.7" tires that number rises slightly to 3460, hardly a remarkable difference. As was said by others, engine cooling should be performing at its best while cruising on the highway, so something isn't right if you're not sitting at thermostat temperature. What have you got as far as fans go? Could they actually be blocking the airflow, instead of helping? (air needs a way to bypass the fan because it will want to flow faster than your fan can pull it.) Check for air bubbles in the system. Verify your thermostat opening with hot water and a thermometer. Verify your gauge. You shouldn't need anything other than standard coolant to maintain your temperatures. If you do, something in the system is inadequate for the heat load you are producing, or the system is operating inefficiently because of other problems.

Alright I took a long time to type this, and a few people have responded since I started, so take that into account if this seems redundant (and maybe a bit long-winded) Why do you want to be at 2500 rpm? What's wrong with cruising at 4000? Where was the motor designed to be at those speeds? R200 vs R180 is about the size of the diff, not the ratios of the gears inside. A 4.11 diff is a great option if you want to cruise at 5000 rpm instead of the 4000 you're at right now, but it sounds like you want to go the other way. Your car currently should have a 3.36 rear, very close to where you probably want to be. I've done a bit of research (tell me if any of this seems off) on your donor car and these are the transmission and diff ratios I came up with 1st: 4.20 2nd: 2.49 3rd: 1.66 4th: 1.24 5th: 1.00 Final Drive: 3.15 (this is the rear diff ratio) The gears themselves are a bit interesting, since there is no overdrive gear (less than 1.0) making your 5th gear more equivalent to most transmissions' 4th gear. Great for performance, not so great for keeping RPM low. We can calculate the wheel rpm by taking engine RPM divided by all the subsequent gears, so 4000/(1*3.36) ≈ 1190 Multiply that by your tire circumference (pi*diameter, I'll assume 24.7" for factory spec) and convert from rotations/min to miles/hour 1190 rotations * 24.7 in * pi * 60 min * ft * mi ------------------------------------------------------------------ = 87.44 mph min * rotation * hour * 12 in * 5280 ft (units included for clarity) In this case, this doesn't match the number you've given, so one of my assumptions about your car was wrong. In order to really know what gear you want (or if you need to change at all), you need to solidify your expectations. You can work this equation backwards and solve for a specific gear ratio or rpm, or you can use one of many gear calculators that can be found online. Remember there are multiple gear reductions in your driveline, and some are easier to change than others. Using larger diameter tires is an easy way to lower your cruising rpm with minimal investment. Otherwise, you're looking for a slightly higher diff (smaller number), though I'm not aware of any gears higher than the one you have.

I'm pretty sure that's the standard procedure for separating the engine and transmission with these motors. Unbolt the transmission, slide it directly backwards (or the engine directly forwards). The torque converter should stay with the engine and flex plate and the input shaft will slide out. Be ready to catch the ATF that's going to spill out (or don't, I don't care). Not my pic, found on google images from https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/2629-auto-gearbox-removal/ Also this should be in the manual. I haven't checked, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't be.

There's some discussion of this valve in this stickied thread Specifically this post by Tony D says the valve is a poppet valve that only bypasses coolant when pressure surges (high rpm, thermostat closed) or when the heater valve is open. Based on that, I would say an elbow connected only to the heater (as on earlier engines) and not revving while cold (shouldn't do this anyway) would work fine.

What position are you referring to? The behavior may have changed in 78, but in 77 there was no 'prime' functionality. The pump is triggered by the AFM flapper when the key is ON, and runs continually when the key is in START. I would start by investigating the AFM. Get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and start measuring.

I have one I've been working on casually for the past year or so for my Honda (maybe it's been 2?). It's still not in the car very often (though it has started and driven). The assembly process is not for everyone and I (as well as everyone else on the forum) strongly recommend a preassembled unit. It's great hardware, and it's awesome being able to request features and get them a week later with personal support, but it's still a bit behind MS3 in the software department.

I want the sprayable sealer because I'm lazy and that looks way easier than masking and brushing/smearing. Plus I like the extra coverage you were able to get on the rust-prone areas under the battery tray, wiper cowl and inner fenders.

I guess I'll have to ask around to see if I can find one to borrow because it's not quite worth $200 to me (though it's probably pretty close). I was going to ask if you're willing to lend yours out with a deposit, but then I checked the location...

Brake cleaner on a seat? I'd be afraid of it dissolving the entire cushion...

It's hard to say how much of a problem that would really be without trying it, IMO. And with a shorter shift lever that could be reduced even further. I think the real tricky part would be that the lever will be moving opposite the direction of the engine during torque application, backwards from most cars. Another issue I just thought of is that on stock-like mounts the tail of the transmission probably doesn't just move side to side, but more likely in an arc/ellipse which means there is an up/down component that might need to be considered, unless the shift linkage already takes care of that. Not sure if it's relevant or not, but old manual transmission Hondas (FWD) use a shifter setup that's somewhere in between chassis mount and transmission mounted. There is a long linkage assembly that is mounted between the transmission and chassis with rubber bushings and the shift lever pivot is contained in the tail end of the linkage. Later K-series Hondas use a cable actuated shifter which would need to be adapted to a rwd transmission, but would allow complete freedom of lever placement. Another option would be a linkage setup between the original shifter on the transmission and a newly fabricated lever on the floor, but I don't think that would really solve many of the issues except for moving the shift lever forwards.

I may be missing something (never dealt with these transmissions before), but would having the shifter pivot mounted to the chassis really cause any problems due to the transmission moving? As long as the shift lever pivot allows enough extra freedom of movement that it never binds I don't think there would be any problems with the pivot being solid.

I'm really intrigued by the sprayable seam sealer. Did you purchase the gun specifically for this project, or is it something you already had? I want to do this on my car, but I don't want to invest the $200 that most guns seem to be demanding.

I think the half shaft fits into the axle, not the other way around, meaning the adapter should be heated. But I agree, a sharp smack with just about anything ought to separate them. Be less gentle, nothing is going to break.

Heat the adapter with a torch; they'll come apart.

The compressor and the idler pulley both mount to the same bracket, and that pulley is only there to adjust tension on the compressor. You can remove all of them with no issues. It'll be a lot more obvious once you're there looking at it.