ZHoob2004

I don't have the diagram in front of me, but most gauges take 12v on one pin, gnd on another, and then connect to the thermister temperature sensor on the third. If you were able to power the gauge outside the car, you could put a variable resistor (potentiometer) between gnd and the temperature pin and sweep the range to make sure it works.

Turbo clutch is a larger diameter friction disc. If you so desired (and many often do) you could use a turbo (240mm) flywheel with a turbo clutch on any l-series engine/transmission combo. I have no idea if the release bearing collar is different. If it is, it's because the stack height of the flywheel/pressure plate is different, which is what determines the release collar height.

Also maybe a dumb question, but is the bar centered on the mounts? I would think the bends would be far enough apart to clear the rails...

If it's hitting, then you probably need a spacer. Adding a small spacer won't really affect the performance of the bar, and can be as simple as a small piece of steel with a pair of holes drilled in it.

Both of these feature an additional crossmember as well. I'm not sure if it's necessary or not, but it shouldn't really hurt. https://www.technoversions.com/MotorMatchHome.html

If you're going to go through the effort, I think the way to go would be to leave the mounts in the stock location on the block and move the mounts off the crossmember and onto the chassis rails like how the v8 kits do. Then you can slot/redrill the crossmember mounting bolts and shift that forward to get some caster gains while you're at it.

On their build thread, you will have to click through the pictures to see the unblurred version. Just something Photobucket does to ensure they lose more customers and reach bankruptcy faster. I think the pictures they were referring to were these, on a hybridz album.

I may be misremembering, but I think that the early 5 speeds had 2x mounting ears on the back of the extension housing (unused on the s30) while the layer zx boxes only had one on the left side. Seeing as yours has 2, I think it's an earlier box. The better way to find out is to mark the shafts with a sharpie and run it through all the gears and count the ratios, then reference them to an FSM or one of the many convenient online charts. Also the clutch for all 72?-83 z cars is the same, minus the 2+2 and turbo models.

I was under the impression that all 72+ clutches are the same until you get to the 2+2 and turbo clutch. Rockauto shows the same slave cylinder and clutch kit for 4 speed and the later cars. I would be surprised if the clutch fork is different, since the 4 and 5 speeds are basically the same transmission +/- an overdrive gear. The only thing to check is the release collar, and which one you use is dependent on the stack height of your clutch/flywheel assembly. If the new setup is the same height as the old one, then you will use the same collar.

Generally wheel speed sensors are VR sensors, which just produce an AC voltage when you spin a toothed wheel in front of them. Connect an oscilloscope across the leads and you'll get a signal if you spin it (above a small minimum speed).

Bell housing is different on the s chassis gearbox. It's the next generation of the same transmission, but if I recall you need some machining and to combine two transmissions to make it work.

I recently rebuilt my FS5W71B and I ran into the same situation. It's my understanding that there was never a return spring from 1-2 to center. I believe this was added with the C variant of the transmission found on the S13 and later, but I never got far enough to determine if the parts were compatible or if I could modify my transmission to have this behavior.

Just guessing because I'm not very adept at tuning, but I believe this may have something to do with your injector dead time, IE the amount of time it takes for your injectors to open when a voltage is applied. I understand one way to tune this is to switch back and forth between sequential and simultaneous injection and adjust until your AFR is the same in both modes.

I believe the common swap used by the v8 guys is a Subaru power steering rack. If I remember correctly the length is just about right and you still use your stock style outer tie rod ends. Or the more popular setup as of late is the electric conversion, which you can diy or buy a new electric column from a variety of sellers.

I purchased the few things that are listed as sold. Not sure why there's no additional response.

Would an adapter like what is used for the z32 front brake conversion not work? I would think it's basically this except maybe you have to move the caliper further outwards (or maybe it's further inboard because of the rotor hat height)

Not a direct answer to your question, but people weld these all the time. Never heard of any cracks or special preparation. TechnoToyTuning, Ground Control, Silvermine, AZC, etc. all sell weld-on coilovers and you can ask any one of them for welding advice or instructions.

IDK if it was the same in the 78 as the 77 (it probably was) but the automatic cars came with an R180 rear diff.

I'm going from memory here, but the shaft sits in the oil pump and then the whole assembly is fed up into the timing cover from below. The crankshaft drive gear, pulley, and everything else (including the whole timing setup) can already be assembled at this point. The oil pump/distributor shaft will rotate along with the helix of the drive gear as it comes into mesh. Hence the difficulty some have in getting the shaft properly aligned with TDC. Tapping it downwards will just reverse this motion, though it may give some trouble in this situation, same with everything else. Though I'm starting to think op might find these parts unusable anyway based on the amount of persuasion they are needing.

The drive can't come out through the top, but the distributor can be removed and the drive tapped down. I also believe the whole timing cover could be removed with the oil pump and drive still in place, which might make it easier to work with (or just outright replace)

I can't remember any threads off-hand, but I don't really see why it would be any different than swapping in a S-chassis subframe. Measure the donor car, then put the pickups in the same place. Looks like there's only the 4 corner bushings and the strut tops to contend with, so should be a simple matter of removing the entire back end of the car and starting from scratch.

Another range of options that have been gaining traction in recent years is the RB flywheel on an L motor. There are small alignment shims available that will allow you to safely bolt an rb20/rb25/rb26 flywheel to an L28 crank and use a 280zx turbo or 350z clutch (they both bolt up). There is much better availability of lightweight flywheels for the RB engines on ebay and the like so this can be a good budget option to get a lightweight flywheel and a stronger clutch.

It looks like your engine still has the spacer on the end of the crank for use with the flex plate. https://zcardepot.com/products/automatic-transmission-pilot-converter-spacer-adaptor-oem-280z You just pry that part off and stick a pilot bushing in the end of the crank. All the cranks are the same, so the flywheel will have no problem bolting up.

So you have some major vacuum leaks? This will make it difficult to run, and the carbs won't provide the correct mixture. This will be the case with flat or round tops. These carbs don't take much to get running, I think I plugged just about every vacuum port on mine and poured fuel into the bowls and it idled just fine. I did do gasket kits on mine before I ever tried to run them, so ymmv.

Those are where the lower retractors for the seatbelts go. Look around at the project threads and there are lots of ideas for how to weld a cage to those. A roll bar should be the same situation.