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That looks good to me. When you remove the heater core and oil cooler loops, all you're left with is the input to the pump and the outlets on the heads, so as long as you maintain a large enough bypass it should be fine. Really all you're doing is moving moving the radiator around and getting rid of the extra loops. What's the stock bypass vs what you're planning to do? The stock diagram makes it look built into the engine. Or is it a t-fitting in the hoses?

I'm using OEM spindle pins in OEM bushings and control arms. The T3 bores are tight enough that glue residue from the part tag on the spindle pins keeps the pins from sliding into the bores. If it were rod ends I agree that there wouldn't be an issue. There will be shims between the upright and control arm bushings to make the fore and aft movement essentially nothing, so I'm really only worried about the rotational force from the control arm bushings. I think I'll add in the lock screws. The time it will take me to drill and tap two holes is pretty minimal, and I'll stop worrying about it.

Is that a finished photo or progress shot? It's a drain rather than a pressurized line, but AFAIK you need to get they hose pushed all the way onto those fittings.

Yes, sorry, aluminum. I somehow missed that you had flexible lines running through the fresh air duct that are already insulated. That's genius. I was already planning on running my wiring harness through the passenger side duct, but hadn't thought of doing the same with the AC lines. I might have to copy you.

That looks very tidy. Are you planning on adding some slip on insulation to those eventually? I'd imagine the stainless tubing will sweat a ton without it.

That was what I was thinking as well. The only thing that has changed is the transmission, and the only thing the transmission can change about engine mounting is the angle.

I'm working on installing a set of T3 rear uprights. The uprights don't include a hole for a spindle pin set screw like the OEM uprights do. With how the pins are clamped into the outer control arm bushings, this will result in the spindle pin rotating in its bore as the suspension travels. Surely this will cause wear and slop over time? The metal is plenty thick enough to drill and tap for a small bolt, so that's where I'm leaning. Anyone have an opinion on this?

What do you mean by too high? Is the valve cover hitting hood or something?

Welcome to the forum and great first post!

Changed from welding to now panel bonding?

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

Excellent work on the switches. I'm excited to see the rest.

Sorry, didn't mean to give you that impression. I would pull it and drop it in your pickup bed/trailer with the engine hoist.

I'm in Los Angeles and have a carbed N42 still in my car that's a classic "ran when parked five years ago". It ran well, but has a couple broken exhaust studs and some leaks, so would be a good candidate for a freshen up. Im not sure on value. I believe a few years ago Datsun Spirit advertised a $900 core charge, but now you have to call them to get that info. Facebook Marketplace and eBay generally show over $1k. I'm open to offers, but i think around $1k is a fair starting point if you're interested

Do you experience any delay in the steering assist? A couple years ago(actually five now that I look) we had a discussion about this, and quite a few people complained that the force-sensing units had a delay and didn't self-centered very well.

Don't go out of your way on my account, I just got another ad for it and was curious if you had any good results.

Any updates on how this is working for you @kaibiagi?

What an absolutely idiotic clown take. You obviously don't understand scale and market and how that affects prices.

My opinion: Flares because your tires are fat and need room = cool. Skinny tires that should fit stock but spaced way out anyway = not cool. It's in the same vein as camber to me. Negative camber for better handling? Awesome. Crazy negative camber because you want people to know how much camber you have? Stupid.

You're a crazy man - in a good way.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal According to this site, the pedal itself was the same from 1973 through the 1976 model, so a 260 pedal should work. I think the 1970-72 pedals would fit, but the clutch pedal would be further left than stock. The offset of the pedal itself changed when things got spread out for the larger booster.

People tend to like selling the whole pedal box rather than just the pedals. If you end up buying an entire pedal box, be aware that they switched booster sizes in 1973. I think the pedals from an earlier 240Z would swap into your box, but the booster bolt pattern means you couldn't swap the whole thing over without more changes.

Are you ordering this kit and the matching front kit? Seems like it solves your issue perfectly

10 years seems impossible. How many have you sold now?

So is the nature of project cars. They're never done.