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Close is one thing, but resting directly on the header isn't good. What's the line routing look like from factory? Does the header manufacturer have any pictures of it installed on an engine that you could use to figure out where they intended the drain to go?

A single page is easy to do by just downloading the html from the menu. Doing the whole site you need to use some tools that will go through the whole directory and do each page individually for you. I haven't done it yet, so I haven't worked through it fully. If/when I do, I'll make a post so others can do the same.

Yeah the broken thread links stink. The pictures might be even worse. I always upload my photos to the site rather than link to a hosting service. Threads that are 20 years old still work great if the poster did that.

Whenever I answer something on Facebook that has been discussed thoroughly or answered on here, I try to provide a link and mention the name of the site. Maybe "brand awareness" will gain us a few users. I don't think it will ever come back, though. Attention spans are too short. I always have hoped that Dan would give a warning before shutting the site down so that I'd have a chance to download it in full. Maybe I should just start doing a backup every few months just in case that doesn't happen. There's too much valuable stuff here to lose it all.

The branding on their cover annoys the hell out of me. Obviously advertising their name is fine, but using up a significant chunk of prime fin area is crazy. It's similar to T3/Apex/others laser cutting their logo into their plate metal parts in the least structurally sound way possible.

Pac_Man hasn't been online in 8 years

I always like seeing your updates on this. It's such a unique project. Please keep posting them.

Ah, I didn't realize they had built-in cable location options on the throttle body. That's convenient. I'm glad it worked out for you.

Thanks! Looks like they did a really good job of getting it tucked in there. I'm tall, so I've just been assuming I'll have to go custom to get something that isn't within reach of my head.

The larger throttle body will definitely make things more sensitive since 75mm is larger than the engine really needs. You have 2.25 the area of the original TB, so you've basically moved all of the previous area change into the first 40% of your pedal travel. You could tune the opening speed by changing the cam on the throttle body, but you'd have to do some work to figure out options that match throttle shaft diameter and what their radius curves look like. You could just go completely custom and get the exact curve you want, but that comes with added work and expense.

The rollbar looks great. Would you mind taking a picture from below to show how close it is to the roof structure?

Metalworks in Eugene, OR is the closest place I have found to you and I (Los Angeles) that has full-car capability. I've only seen good reviews from them. I've seen the stories of weeping and paint being ruined just like you, but it's always "a friend told me he knew a guy" and never any firsthand or even secondhand evidence.

I think PWM control based on intake temp would be the best, but I'm assuming you don't have an intake temp sensor?

It will be interesting to see how the Helmholtz-style resonator changes things.

You can get a T-56 to fit in an S30 with some work, so you can pick basically whatever Chevrolet manual trans you want.

They've been the standard for a long time. Recently some other options have come onto the market, Capital Metal Works being one, but I've never heard a bad word about Bad Dog.

Do you have a T3 kit that uses the Q45/Z32TT wheel bearings as well? I recently found and ordered some new OEM rear bearings for mine. You maybe know this already, but they were out of production for like a decade and the only ones available were NOS for $450+ each. They must have done another production run, because plenty of places are selling them now, but still for the insane prices. I ordered from a UK vendor that cost for 2 what most places want for just 1. It was also the only place that actually listed the bore diameters, verifying they weren't just making the same mistake every major retailer in the US had made for the last 10 years of selling non-TT bearings as TT bearings. https://zcentre.co.uk/product/300zx-rear-nissan-oem-wheel-bearing-twin-turbo/

It always depends on pricing, but I'd be interested. I like the fitting arrangement and the bulkhead electrical connectors, but not in love with having a separate lift pump. Holley, Aeromotive, and Tanks Inc all have pigtails or studs rather than the bulkheads, so it's a compromise no matter which way I go.

The FPG units look nice. Do you have a link to what you bought? For some reason I m can only find vehicle-specific kits that mount like the stock pumps rather than with the universal ring like you have.

Excited to see another build thread! The forum had a bit of a lull recently, but hopefully some good threads can kick it back into gear.

Where's the rollbar coming from? I looked into getting one from VA Engineering in the Netherlands a few years ago since Tony had sent them an original set of brackets to copy, but they said it would be a one off and never actually gave me a price. I see Mizukami in Japan offers them now. It's a good time to buy with the current exchange rate.

I can't tell if this is snark because Eric has pointed out actual issues with stuff you've done or if it's just a very poorly worded compliment.

Is the auto-tune function on? It's possible that the ECU is trying to correct something and is doing a poor job of it.

That looks good to me. When you remove the heater core and oil cooler loops, all you're left with is the input to the pump and the outlets on the heads, so as long as you maintain a large enough bypass it should be fine. Really all you're doing is moving moving the radiator around and getting rid of the extra loops. What's the stock bypass vs what you're planning to do? The stock diagram makes it look built into the engine. Or is it a t-fitting in the hoses?

I'm using OEM spindle pins in OEM bushings and control arms. The T3 bores are tight enough that glue residue from the part tag on the spindle pins keeps the pins from sliding into the bores. If it were rod ends I agree that there wouldn't be an issue. There will be shims between the upright and control arm bushings to make the fore and aft movement essentially nothing, so I'm really only worried about the rotational force from the control arm bushings. I think I'll add in the lock screws. The time it will take me to drill and tap two holes is pretty minimal, and I'll stop worrying about it.