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HybridZ

calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. Are you after just the bottom flange or like a full sewing pattern for the boot?
  2. The left and right rear quarters are available from KF Vintage, and you can get a beaver tail from ZCarDepot. You'd be missing the underlying structure and floor pieces. If you can find another shell for a good price, you might end up money ahead by time you're done, not to mention the time difference. If you're attached to this shell, you could always find another Z in a junkyard and cut the back end off like someone did to yours.
  3. Oh no! That's horrible and not something anyone should have to go through. Everyone ok? And any idea what happened?
  4. Right, I was wondering about this part of your post: Upon rereading, I'm realizing that you were saying you could get only the spline and wheel stud portion new. I thought you meant you could press the bearing out of the bearing mount and use it in the old housing.
  5. Do you have handy the cars or part numbers that still use those hubs? The only parts I could ever find were OEM for $300+ each, so I pulled two used sets from the junkyard so I'd have one pair for a backup. I'd love to have brand new bearings to match all the other new components
  6. Your metalwork always impresses me. Great work
  7. If you want to go with one piece, you may be able to get away with just making a relief cut up in the front where the floor slopes into the firewall next to the trans tunnel. Everything else is pretty flat, and that way you'd only have a seam in a relatively inconspicuous area. Going with two pieces might be easier than one and be the same esthetically, since the "joint" would be completely under the center console and dash
  8. Did you ever get back on this? It was a fun project. Would love to see updates if you have any
  9. People still care, I just see it here and on Instagram. The forum is really nice as far as documentation and being searchable though. Please keep posting here
  10. Why the decision to go with 3 pieces rather than 2 per side? Worried about getting it to conform?
  11. Looks good to me. I think rather than a slot, I'd go with overlapping holes like in this picture. It would make replicating setups and matching the left and right mounts a lot easier than with the slots.
  12. I don't see a picture of you meant to post one
  13. Presumably use it as a stand-in for the VSS signal in vehicles that don't have it.
  14. The DPS system uses the potentiometer to control the assist. The Silvermine kit adjusts the assist based on your speed.
  15. They're generally pretty respected in the community. I've never heard of them not delivering, so I wouldn't be too worried about it not getting there eventually. Probably worth another call or email though.
  16. You're exactly correct on the pressures. Each individual control volume effectively cancels out
  17. I'd put the use of manometers above the capability of your average car builder, but fair enough.
  18. RBs and LS engines are the most common swaps, but some people use Nissan VQs as well. Apex Engineered offers a front subframe with mounts for your choice of L, JZ, LS, RB, and VQ engines. The VQ would let you put a CD00A behind it if you wanted a brand new trans. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Crossmember.html If you want to stay with an L-series, Datsun works (sold through Godzilla Raceworks) offers kits to put either a CD00A or TL70 (BR-Z trans) behind them. Both brand new, more modern options. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain
  19. The flap will add a drag component, but the hope is that the added suction on the vent outweighs it. Hard to tell without testing or simulations though. Agreed on it just being guessing, though. That's what a huge amount of the amateur racecar aero you see is. Very few people have the knowledge or resources to properly test small changes like that. Wings and airdams are easy to measure, but smaller features get hard to isolate and measure.
  20. You work fast. Looks great.
  21. A Gurney flap creates suction on its rear side. The flow doesn't have to be perfect, and you aren't getting laminar flow anywhere on a car. Look at basically any racecar with a radiator ducted to the hood. There's a Gurney flap to increase the suction in its wake. Flow isn't binary. It isn't clean or dirty, and pressure isn't just high or low. There's varying degrees to all of it. The smoke in the Ecoboost picture you posted is still flowing through that area, even if it's a little messy. The more you vent out the top and rear of the wheel well, the cleaner the flow will be alongside it because there won't be as much spill. He's done a pretty good job of that on the car in the video, so the flow by his wheels is likely even better than the aforementioned Ecoboost picture.
  22. I try to avoid making absolute statements without having run the CFD, but I'm pretty doubtful that you'd get even close to the same benefit from the vortices that you'd get from a Gurney flap. The vortex lowers the pressure in the area, but not like the flap would. The flap essentially creates a vacuum behind the flap that the vent air has to come out and fill.
  23. I'm confused what you mean by the dive planes would do better. The Gurney flap is to lower the pressure behind it and help get air out of the wheel wells, not create downforce by themselves
  24. Everything from the usual suspects I find doesn't fit under the 272mm, but there may be something out there other than the T3 kit. If you decide to go with the Maxima calipers and Z31 rotors, I believe I have a setup and live in LA. Would be happy to sell them to you.
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