calZ

People tend to like selling the whole pedal box rather than just the pedals. If you end up buying an entire pedal box, be aware that they switched booster sizes in 1973. I think the pedals from an earlier 240Z would swap into your box, but the booster bolt pattern means you couldn't swap the whole thing over without more changes.

Are you ordering this kit and the matching front kit? Seems like it solves your issue perfectly

10 years seems impossible. How many have you sold now?

So is the nature of project cars. They're never done.

You have to be a donating member to post in the for sale section, which is why you don't have the permissions.

I feel like the rate of work you've been doing has increased since you declared your project finished

I can't find it now for the life of me, but I thought someone on here did it years ago with the hardware for a Jeep.

Yes please

Do you know the cost different between piecemeal and just doing the whole car? I'd be tempted to just do the whole thing. All those areas are good to protect you from rocks your own tires are throwing, but my daily has chips in the most random areas from other cars throwing stuff. Plus, you'd avoid the possibility of seeing the edges of the film. I had a car that was done only in the "danger areas", and after years of sun and exposure, the edges started to lift. It looked terrible. I'm sure that was more of an issue since my car was parked outside a lot and your Z likely won't be, but it's something to think about.

He's actually a member here. @jdmjunkies.ch

Derek at Datsunworks already makes a bellhousing. They're sold through Godzilla Raceworks.

I'm not surprised 1-3 are light with how the Protunerz manifold is designed. That short side radius is too tight for great distribution. It would be interesting to see how the balance was with the new Milkfab intake. If you lived closer I'd be willing to let you put mine on for testing.

Super clean bends! I love the organization. Are you planning on putting some insulation on the AC lines?

Lucky Dog would probably be a good organization for your car. Much more fun/$ than SCCA or the like anyway.

Not since Christmas lol

The latest generation of printers has made it pretty dang easy. They're basically as easy to use as paper printers at this point. Learn some basic modeling skills from YouTube and you're off to the races.

We usually call it a balance bar in English

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131611-speedhut-fuel-gauge-and-metermatch/

Not sure where they source theirs, but that's a BRE "Spook" style chin spoiler. You can still get the ducted version from BRE, and multiple other places make a non-ducted version. Here's one https://www.thezstore.com/product/625/bre-style-front-spoiler-fiberglass-70-874-240z-260z

I think the T-56 is so big that you have to. It's fine to leave them if the trans fits between them.

I meant to ask this before, but can you give some more details on the timing setup? It looks like you're using the stock Mercedes guides. What did you have to do to get those to fit the block?

Have you read any about the Mk60 standalone systems? I'm in the process of putting one in my Z. They aren't quite on the level of a Bosch Motorsports system, but tons of people are using them effectively in racing.

Ceramic spacers were my thought as well. You'll still get heat transfer through the bolts, but much less than two metal plates sandwiches together.

Specifically a used OEM one? RockAuto seems to have a few different options for rebuilds

Is there some type of coating on the hub splines? From your second picture, it looks like something is either peeling or being machined off as you slide it on. I would try cleaning out the hub splines with a wire brush. It surprises me sometimes how little it takes to really jam up things with a tight fit.