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HybridZ

calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. Is it not extremely out of balance with being as thick as it is with a bunch of holes on only one side?
  2. https://kineticmotorworks.net/ https://invincibleextremes.com/shop/ols/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30-ford-super-88-swap-kit
  3. I still have no idea why you'd want to do this, but good on you for working at it.
  4. A 9" with a 205 is too far imo, but a small amount of stretch has been proven to increase grip. Bulging sidewalls make the tire mushy.
  5. I don't think I've ever seen a billet, CNC-machined backplate before. That's show car stuff
  6. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/36272-viper-v10-engine-in-a-z/page/2/#comment-755645
  7. Haltech is a pretty good option with almost Motec features without the Motec price.
  8. Yes, you said this already. You said if you adjust the stop, the pedal will come up further. That would change your measurement, would it not?
  9. How do you know the rod is too short if the pedal is resting on the stop?
  10. The ad says it's $1000 for prep and paint, so I think a consistent color is more of his concern rather than the fine details.
  11. ProTunerz makes one, but it's just a simple plenum. Looks nicer than the stock intake, though.
  12. calZ

    AC swap question

    It does not need it and you can block it off. Someone on hybridz rigged up a way so he could switch between fresh air and recirculating, but it's not necessary. You could always just crack one of the side vents open if you want fresh air.
  13. If the mounts don't fix it, you could always just put a small dent in it with a hammer where it rubs. I know it would be painful to do, but there have been plenty of tests showing that dents (especially just one) aren't going to noticeably affect things
  14. Are you after just the bottom flange or like a full sewing pattern for the boot?
  15. The left and right rear quarters are available from KF Vintage, and you can get a beaver tail from ZCarDepot. You'd be missing the underlying structure and floor pieces. If you can find another shell for a good price, you might end up money ahead by time you're done, not to mention the time difference. If you're attached to this shell, you could always find another Z in a junkyard and cut the back end off like someone did to yours.
  16. Oh no! That's horrible and not something anyone should have to go through. Everyone ok? And any idea what happened?
  17. Right, I was wondering about this part of your post: Upon rereading, I'm realizing that you were saying you could get only the spline and wheel stud portion new. I thought you meant you could press the bearing out of the bearing mount and use it in the old housing.
  18. Do you have handy the cars or part numbers that still use those hubs? The only parts I could ever find were OEM for $300+ each, so I pulled two used sets from the junkyard so I'd have one pair for a backup. I'd love to have brand new bearings to match all the other new components
  19. Your metalwork always impresses me. Great work
  20. If you want to go with one piece, you may be able to get away with just making a relief cut up in the front where the floor slopes into the firewall next to the trans tunnel. Everything else is pretty flat, and that way you'd only have a seam in a relatively inconspicuous area. Going with two pieces might be easier than one and be the same esthetically, since the "joint" would be completely under the center console and dash
  21. Did you ever get back on this? It was a fun project. Would love to see updates if you have any
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