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calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. That looks awesome. This is just conjecture, but I'd bet that the stock body doesn't have the precision to where 1/8" per side will stand out. I can't imagine it would perfectly slide down and contact the whole rail even if the frame was perfect.
  2. Determined that leaving your full fenders there wouldn't work?
  3. I don't like G-noses and I'm not the biggest wide body fan, but if that paint is decent that's a hell of a deal.
  4. Even Church of L-Series has gone downhill a bit over the last year or so. The same experts are still there, but it used to be mostly people that were in the know, and now it's a lot more like the other groups.
  5. That depends on what you need. Stock replacement or aftermarket stuff? Motorsport Auto (MSA/TheZStore), Z Car Depot, and Z Car Source are all solid sources for stock stuff. KF Vintage JDM is the goto for replacement sheet metal. Skillard offers a lot of stuff if you're looking to replace stock parts with something more simple and a little industrial. Then there's stuff like ProTunerz, Milkfab, Stuff Harry Does, etc
  6. I've run them as close as 1/4" before. I never had an issue, but other wheels may flex more.
  7. So what I'm getting out of this is that I should run a bronze drive gear.
  8. Davey hasn't been on this website in 5 years
  9. On our racecar we ran two pressure gauges - one sensor at the pump outlet and one at the Accusump outlet. Both had switches connected to lights as well. The pump outlet had a yellow light to let us know if there was oil starvation in a corner, and the Accusump light was red, since if that one dropped too low it meant the engine had no pressure left at all. We were very happy with the setup.
  10. Interestingly enough, the post refers to the tool shed, which no longer exists as far as I can tell. Old member coming back to scam maybe?
  11. FYI - this user is very likely a scammer. They joined, made three posts on various topics, and then PMed me in reply to a WTB post with the classic "Have you emailed so-and-so? He's got one to sell. Hit him up at xxxxx."
  12. This site had both terminals and housings http://www.vintageconnections.com/
  13. I have the Hoke kit, which is no longer produced. I have no experience with the Futofab axles. You aren't fixing the outdated design of the axle holding the wheel on, but if the axles are strong enough to not break then it doesn't really matter I guess. The 8.8 kit would be the most future-proofed way of going, but also require swapping out a ton more parts than just the axles. As for ratio, I'm not sure. My short nose is 3.54 which I believe is the same as the stock 350Z ratio. It really depends on what speeds you'll be running at most of the time and what the power band looks like. You might have to change it up based on how the car drives once it's running.
  14. How's the car been? This is still one of my favorite threads.
  15. I'll go one at a time on your questions. T-56 vs CD009 Size: they weigh almost the same, and both will necessitate removing the original mounting ears from the tunnel. Assuming the rear of the engine is in the same place as an L-series, you'll need a shifter relocate for the CD009. I think if you get the F-body version of the T-56, the shifter lines up nicely. That's what TimZ did with his T-56 behind an L. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126809-t56-behind-an-l-series/ Drivability: I've never driven a car with either of these trans, though I do have a kit waiting to put a CD009 in my car. If you're worried more about twisty roads and the track, I would lean towards the CD. 1st gear in the CD and 6th in the T-56 will likely both be useless in those cases, so you're basically comparing 1-5 of the T-56 and 2-6 of the CD. The CD has closer ratios over that span, but really what you want will be track/road dependent. The gears you use the most and the shifts you make the most would likely inform which one will be preferable. Diffs 5-600hp is a lot. The R200LN has a history of being able to handle that, but keeping it almost definitely means keeping the stock stub axles and drive axles, which are the weak points of the stock setup. You might be fine if you're just on road courses, but at 600hp I'd be a little worried about a stub axle snapping and your wheel departing the car. The R200SN and 8.8 conversions are both strong and easy to do. I'm in the process of putting an R200SN into my car with a swap kit from T3, but if I had to start from scratch, I might lean towards the 8.8 for a track car. The kit is cheaper from https://invincibleextremes.com/ than anything to put in a short nose. The 8.8 is a bit heavier, but the parts availability is so much better for brakes and hubs. It's impossible to get some stuff new for the R200SN setup, and even good used parts can be hard to find, especially if you go with the Q45/Z32TT versions of the diff. Mustang parts can be bought new and will be available for a long, long time.
  16. calZ

    Weatherstripping

    Same. Hybridz is my "bored and need to kill 10 minutes" method of choice, so I look at essentially every new post that is made on the site. I'd be more than willing to do something productive with that time and clean up the spam/bots.
  17. calZ

    Weatherstripping

    Can we ban this guy? Throw in joyce_mor too. They're either really convincing bots or just human shills that post generic compliments on random threads and then every few posts slip in an ad for 4wheelonline.
  18. Rather than lowering the car, you lowered the wheel wells. Interesting concept. I'm keen to see it out of the garage and get a nice side shot of it.
  19. Sucks that that happened to you Sean. I posted a wanted ad here and ClassicZCars and got a ton scam replies. I basically ignore anyone who doesn't have at least a moderate posting history. The name they tell you to email sometimes won't even match the email address. Perhaps PMs could be disabled until you've been on the site for at least 24 hours or something? Wouldn't stop all of them, but would make it a little more difficult
  20. Isn't that how it's routed stock? There aren't two hoses going back to the water pump inlet. It's been a while since I stripped my engine, but I thought the heater just steals coolant from the turbo return? Tony is always big on that method because once the engine stops, the turbo can thermally siphon the cold water that just came out of the radiator and push it towards the tstat housing.
  21. What's your current routing? Tstat to turbo to water pump inlet?
  22. TechnoToy Tuning. They're also called T3 quite often. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z
  23. To add to this a bit, even though they aren't for the front, I just received some adapters I designed to put modern BMW speed sensors into a short nose R200.
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