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Isn't that how it's routed stock? There aren't two hoses going back to the water pump inlet. It's been a while since I stripped my engine, but I thought the heater just steals coolant from the turbo return? Tony is always big on that method because once the engine stops, the turbo can thermally siphon the cold water that just came out of the radiator and push it towards the tstat housing.

What's your current routing? Tstat to turbo to water pump inlet?

TechnoToy Tuning. They're also called T3 quite often. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z

To add to this a bit, even though they aren't for the front, I just received some adapters I designed to put modern BMW speed sensors into a short nose R200.

classiczcars would be worth a check too if you don't get an answer here. They're very into keeping the old stock stuff functioning.

Are you sure it's not the engine bay side of the linkage getting stuck? It's pretty common for the original mechanical linkage to get a little sticky over time.

Isn't that exactly what I just said? The head was designed well for what it was intended to do. It is a "problem" created by using something outside of its intended purpose. I didn't call it a flaw, or a mistake, just a problem to solve when you're using a design for something it wasn't meant to do. You're getting hung up on the word problem and assuming I meant it was Nissan's problem. It's a challenge/hurdle/consideration/difficulty that you must take into account when building a high performance engine. The traction of a stock 240Z is not a problem at all, but if you try to run 9s in the 1/4 with one, traction becomes a problem. It's the same thing. We've probably threadjacked enough with our contest in pedantry, so I'll stop now

https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/milkfab-l-series-280z-ac-damper-crank-trigger-kit

I bet if you posted it on one of the Datsun part Facebook groups, it would sell pretty quickly.

The engine should fit fine. It's just a V6, right? S30 engine bays are huge and fit just about anything. This is kind of one of those things where if you have to ask, it's outside what you should attempt. You'd need either the transmission that goes with the engine or an adapter plate for another transmission. Then you could make a custom driveshaft to attach it to the diff. As long as you have an R200 and aren't doing a bunch of drag launches, the diff should hold. Axles and stub axles are where the weak points would be. An 8.8, R230, or short nose R200 swap for the rear would be good insurance. Chassis stiffening would likely be needed at that power level as well. You'll also have to either retain the OEM ECU and integrate that into the existing wiring while figuring out how to flash out all the requirements that likely exist for the ECU to be connected to other body modules, or just go full standalone and rewire the whole engine. You might be able to find someone that has a plug-n-play product for the engine.

You maybe mentioned and I missed it, but how are you attaching the body to the frame? Completely removing the floor and making a new one? Or just cutting slots and dropping it over the tubes?

1. The OP asked if he should go with the T3 shortnose swap kit 2. People replied that the long nose would probably work as well 3. Thoughtful_edit added his support for the swap kit because it comes with the additional benefit of getting rid of the stub axles. That's a very clear path to follow. He was acknowledging that you could theoretically swap in hubs without changing the diff, but that the kit does that and more. He's used "mount" to refer to the hub/backing plate assembly three times now. Would backing plate be a better word? Yes. Is it still easy to follow what he's saying? Also yes. Both Thoughtful_edit and I understand how the whole assembly works. We both own the T3 kits and have removed our own rear suspension and replaced it with a short nose setup. Neither of us are confused, you're just latching onto one sentence without any context and hammering it into the ground.

You could build a mount (spindle/backing plate) for new hubs and connect them to the long nose R200. That wasn't a very difficult translation. The OP mentioned wanting the T3 swap kit for the R200, failing to understand he needed to specify he was talking about the short nose. Thoughtful_edit is adding that a big benefit to choosing to do the swap kit is that you get rid of the stub axles, i.e. OP goes with the diff and he gets more benefits than it holding the power of the VQ37. Are you being willfully obtuse or just pedantic because you want to be right? You're one of the most knowledgeable people on this whole forum, but you have a habit of trying to condescendingly demonstrate your superiority to new members and "put them in their place." That usually drives them away, and in the age of Facebook, we need all the members we can get here.

I don't have experience with those wheels specifically, but 225 tires are super common on 15x9 wheels for racecars. The tires we ran were 225/45r15, so yours will have a lot more sidewall and thus less stretch than a lot of people race on. I think you'd be fine if you wanted to go a little narrower for more clearance. It looks like the selection for tires to go on 14" wheels is pretty slim these days, though.

It doesn't directly, but almost no one swaps shortnose diffs in without the corresponding switch to S14/Z32/Q45 hubs.

Bump

So are you spacing the wheels out to the flares then? Not worried about being that low and the original lips riding on the tire? That's generally why people trim the lips

You're going to put flares on but not trim the original sheet metal? What's the point of the flares then, just to make your car look lower?

There are lots of posts about people running 245s on stock sheet metal. You likely don't even need flares if that's as wide as you're going.

I wasn't blaming Nissan for anything. They designed their engine for a purpose, and it did that well. But who is buying a 3rd party head and isn't expecting to push the power to a point that they're bumping up against the cooling limits of the original design? In that context, it is a "problem". If you plan on running stock power levels where the cooling system performs just fine, why would you spend $10k+ on a brand new head casting?

Right to the cage is how I prefer it, as long as the straps end up at horizontal or with the mount points lower than your shoulders. I'm sure both the harness manufacturer and the SCCA have specs for the acceptable range. You'll have to check for rubbing on the seat as well.

This is a lot further forward than the cowl would be, but see my old MR2 racecar as an example.

One thing I see a lot in automotive aerodynamic discussions online is that people tend to group things into "high pressure" and "low pressure" areas, when in reality it's anything but binary. The cowl area is definitely near the upper end of the pressure range, but as long as the engine bay is even higher, air will still flow. There's been plenty of people who run a popped hood and get better cooling, which shows the potential, but the cowl vents are much closer to the windshield in a relative sense. Are you allowed to add metal the outer body of the car? A raised flap/ramp in front of the cowl openings would almost assuredly make the pressure gradient favorable enough to get flow how you want it.

My day job is doing aero analysis and design for a defense company. A big thing when we design planes is that to reduce drag, you want to capture the absolute minumum amount of air possible in the inlet. For the purposes ot a car, the inlet would be the grill opening. It's pretty common knowledge now, but ducting the radiator and blocking everything else off has huge benefits. In my experience, a lot of people who work around certain things think they know a lot about it just because they're near it. Welders thinking they know structural design, contractors thinking they know architecture, and apparently Bob thinking he knows aerodynamics.

Your setup sounds good to me. As Tony mentions in the link I posted, it sets up a siphon with freshly cooled water from the rad once you turn the engine off.