Warren

As I can only speak from experience using my own vehicle, I can't and won't argue the importance of proper geometry and spring rates. I can, however, add that when you're changing all of the bushings on the front sway bar (end links), check to be sure that the holes (inside the bushing seats) in the lower control arms haven't wallowed out from worn end link bushings as shown below. This is a picture of what I found on my car when I did the urethane installation. It was corrected by using a TIG welder and a small amount of filler material, then shaping the hole round again. This may or may not have any bearing on whether or not the TC rod eventually breaks, but since I was doing the urethane bushing installation, I went ahead and fixed it anyway. As stated above, I haven't had any problems with my TC rods or bushings since doing this. Warren

Cosmetics, nothing a little superglue won't take care of if you can get new ones.

I have to believe that the installation of bump steer spacers would almost if not totally alleviate the problem of stressing the TC rods at that point. I believe that's what Afshin came to the conclusion of as well. I have the polyurethane bushings in my car as well as bump steer spacers and having recently torn them apart after a few thousand miles, I noticed no odd or additional wear in the area of where Afshin's broke. Perhaps it's prudent to install the bump steer spacers at the same time as the lowering springs, as I did. Who knows, maybe I'm just lucky. BTW, TC rods on the S130 point toward the front and connect the lower control arms to the front radiator support, unlike the S30 which connect the lower control arms to the chassis at the frame/engine rails. Warren

Since there are actually 5 different ones, displaying subtle changes from year to year, option to option, it would be difficult to display all of them. Besides, they're available in all of the FSM's, which everybody should have at least 1 of...hehe Good idea though. Warren

Here's a quick example. Although it's not all that techincal, or required, some people like to have everything still work after modifications. (sorry it's blurry, but hey, its a jpg)

Well, how about we, as S130 owners/modders start posting stuff that is specific to the S130, like electrical diagrams, body mods, interior stuff, suspension mods, etc. It's always been a PITA to have to look through all the search results for something S130 related only to find out that it only relates to the S130 powertrain that was scavenged to put into an S30. (Nothing wrong with that, but it does kinda pollute the S130 gene pool in the search engine. <--- NO FLAMING REQUIRED) Contrary to popular belief, there really ARE quite a few S130's that have been modified and are running around out there. Warren

Glad to hear you were able to keep the car Jon. Too bad about the breakage. Of course, with that many passes in such a short time, plus all the stress that they've alreday seen, you're lucky to have only broken one. Hope you had a great time and at least won something other than the experience, although that would have been enough for me. Care to disclose the contents of the trailer? Warren

Not to be a smartarse, but if they're going out of business, why not go back there and see about getting the cable they were using? I know it's not a good idea, but they may just throw you a couple hundred feet of what you need. They're not going to be using it anyway. It may not be what you want as far as the portability, but at least you'd be able to hook it up. Warren

Whoever did the swap probably wanted another "foot rest" since that little tiny POS that Nissan had the gall to mount against the kick panel is so useless in most cases. Hey, I've heard of it before.

http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/products.htm <---CLICK

CONGRATS DALE!!! I know that feeling too and I'm about to know once similar once this tranny ordeal is finished and it's back on the ground. btw, couldn't help but notice you appear to be and older geezer like ME! Glad "I" didn't say that

NHRA Just announced the show and mentions the Datsun, TWICE... and lists ALL of the other competitors. CLICK TO READ Edit: I just got off of the phone with Jon's crew...they just ran 2 qualifying passes and have been picked to run in round 2. Wish 'em luck guys, they're ALOT at stake in this competition.

Gonna try for another "Organizer's Favorite" at SEZ with something different, huh? That's ok, you have until March 08 to get it finished. I too, had a feeling that you'd change to a different power plant before long. I'm sure you're making the right decision under the circumstances. Good luck with it, and keep us posted. Warren

Dunn, Rieff to illustrate power of a Top Fuel launch in Chicago - Saturday from 5 to 6:30 p.m. ET.

If you choose not to use the ZX Speed Sensor (reed switch) you'll need a speedometer cable driven speed sensor, commonly used on GM products (available from JTR as well as Summit, amongst other places). The ZX speed sensor provides 2 pulses per revolution. If you're wiring this into a ZX, the below diagram applies. The YW wire is the one to put one lead to and the YL is the other...the YL connects to ground in the body harness if that helps. YW - Yellow White, YL - Yellow Blue Hope that helps clear up with wiring of it. NOTE: If your car is equipped with "Bitchin Betty", this little fix will get her fully working again if you've changed to the 140mph Speedometer and lost some of her messages (the ones requiring the car to be moving, like Door Ajar, Park brake is set, etc). This also works if you've changed to aftermarket gauges.

If you open up that regulator, you'll find out that the orifices inside are TINY... I had an issue with one of those at one time that proved to be a MAJOR problem. It wouldn't flow enough fuel to keep the motor running and it leaked like a sive. Invest in a decent FPR or revert back to the stock one (which will be sufficient for what you need, as Racetech tell ya to begin with). I now use an SPX adjustable regulator and have not had ANY issues with fuel since. Glad to know your ECU and injector is functioning properly though...that's good news. Warren

The old Microfiche's and Factory Service Manuals are available online for free at Carfiche.com. Realizing you're new here, please be aware that most everything you could ask has already been asked on this board, therefore, as a general rule of thumb, please use the "search" feature before posting. This same question was asked just yesterday. Hope it helps, Warren

Sounds like a fish story to me.... :) Sorry, couldn't resist...

You can easily download the FSM from Carfiche.com for your car, look in section BE on pages BE-13 to BE-16 and answer this question yourself. It has the circuit diagrams and wiring colors there. Remember, BLACK is ground.

NHRA Powerade Drag Racing Series ***SOLD*** Apparently, they're gonna commercialize that part of the NHRA...like it's not already commercialized enough. Go figure. Click for Story A letter from NHRA Founder, Wally Parks, regarding the acquisition

That seller is VERY unethical too. I'm amazed that ebay actually lets that guy sell anything...he so overcharges on shipping it's pathetic. I've had a dealing with him in the past and trust me, a small part, that showed up with $1.13 postage, in a plain brown padded envelope, he charged like $11.00 for shipping. He seems to think that his putting a single part in a stinking padded envelope is worth more than the part costs...and refuses to combine shipping on multiple items...be careful...(not that anybody here would be STUPID enough to pay $1000 for door panels for a Right Hand Drive 240Z)...Caveat Emptor...(and Caveat Venditor, you've been exposed).

Thank You Dan, for Option 1, if that's what you did. Ads are gone now, and so is the SEZ Banner (oops!, probably a by-product of running other banners as ads)...oh well, we'll figure something out.