rags

I wish you lived closer. I think if you had the driveshafts, exhaust connectors, and rad hoses you could do the switch in a few hours to test on the same weekend. There are two more areas that concen me. The shifter and the headers. Since the Nissan shifter is rod actuated you will need to do have a different sized rod for each setup. And the Scarab full length headers will hit the steering shaft when the enging is in the JTR position. I'm very interested in this test, Art. If there is anything I can help you with please email me. Joe

Don't forget the driveshaft I'd love to see if it is really worth the effort. I've been contemplating moving my engine back for years. This comparo will definetly push me one way or the other.

Jersey, 110?! That is some serious mph. This year is a wash for me. I'm just trying to get the yellow car ready for the convention. TEC is giving me problems. And Sleeper, you might still be in the 13's but your doing it a mile up! Bring that thing down here and your in the 12's.

What I was thinking is do you think it is worth the money to have the Extrude Hone process open up the whole manifold. I think if I port it by hand there is going to be alot of the manifold that I can't reach. Joe

If I ever get my stainless intercooler piping welded together I can start tuning my TEC. You guys seem very close to me. Who does your welding? I've started to look for my own but just can't seem to part with the $700 for a Miller 175. Joe

Cody, Have you done this? If so what was the cost? Joe

Has anyone done or looked into extrude honing a stock turbo exhaust manifold? I don't want to go custom header and was thinking this might be an alternamtive. Any thoughts? Joe

Just look in the bottom of the distributor. You will either see a slot or what looks like a star shape. If you look at the dizzy/oilpump shaft through the distributor mount and the end of the shaft matches what you see in the bottom of the distributor you want to install then it's a bolt on. 82/83 has the star, anything older has the slot. Also, if your going from an older distributor to a newer one, your going to have to remove the bolted on extender housing from the front cover as the newer distributors are physically longer than the old ones. Joe

Gonna have to get back to you on that as we just finished the motor this past weekend. Joe

Sorry, we did the group buy a few months ago. I was just asking if anyone else got their motor together using the pistons from th buy. Joe

Well I don't know if anyone else that was in on the group buy got their motor together, but this past weekend i finished up on a NA 3 liter with an E31 on it. Only had it out a few times but so far I'm very satisfied with the results. I still have a little tuning to do on the Webers but it does pull strong. I have already started on the turbo motor which will have the same bottom end but will have a P90 on it. I'll keep everyone updated on the progress of that motor as well. I'm interested in the progress of anyone else who might have started their build with the custom pistons from the group buy. Joe

Thanks guy's. Filled out my order form at Stainless Works this morning! Joe

I've been searching for an hour with no luck. Does anyone have a source for mandrel bent stainless tubing? I found straight pieces but I need a few 90's and a few 45's. I would settle for a 180 and cut it! Joe

Told ya Jersey wasn't such a bad place

Tim/James, I can see you made the "Spoolie Jobbie" to match the turbine housing but don't you think it would work better if it was rotated 90 degrees? This way the butterfly would shut down exhaust flow that would be directed towards the middle of the turbine and concentrate it at the tips of the turbine fins where it would do most good. I realize it would have to be made over and the butterfly would have to be moved so it didn't hit the turbine housing when open but doesn't this sound logical? Joe

To me it looks like a way to speed up the exhaust during low rpm by directing the exhaust through a smaller outlet in the manifold. If I'm right or wrong I still would like to know more!! Joe

jgkruz, Scotty has done the Corvette swap. http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm Is the R200 that you currently have going up for sale? I'm very interested!

Tough to say with the pictures you took. Pull up the carpet to show the floors, take some pictures of the frame just behind the front wheels. Tought to explain but if there are holes when you look behind the front wheels they will be very obvious. Look under the battery tray. Look at the strut towers from inside the engine compartment. If these areas are all clean, then I would say $1000 is a fair price for an east coast car. Joe

Put me on the same list as James, Dave and Scotty. There are still two specific v8 forums with the Ford and Chevy v8 forums so why dump all six cylinder swaps together? Since I have both a V8 car and a turbo 240, which IS a hybrid since a 240 never came with that engine, I used to like the specialized forums. Why would I go to a Ford V8 forum when I have a Chevy engine? Makes sense, no? If what you are looking for when doing a search can be answered in either forum don't we think the visitors to this site, that are performing an undertaking that most people can't do anyway, are smart enough to look in multiple forums? I can understand if the reason to merge is to make the life of administrators easier and if that's the case I am willing to put up or shut up. If help is needed I'm willing. Just my few cents. Joe

Jeff, Use the stock feed for the return and run at least a 3/8" for the feed. I used 3/8" for mine but I'm only using 43lb injectors. What size injectors are you using? Joe

Looks good Scotty! I refuse to put a picture of my "old man" bike up on here

Hi guys, When assembling a stroker motor, is there interference between the con rod and cylinder wall on numbers 3 and 4? I have contact only on those two cylinders. Why? I'm using 9mm rods, ARP bolts and a 87mm bore. Thanks! Joe

Dan, I think the pushrod lengh requirment is dependant upon what M/C is used and not the booster. So any pushrod that came behind a 7/8" M/C will work. Also, I actually think the pushrods are the same lengh, only the agjusting tip is a different size. Does that make any sense? Joe

JT, DId you use an after market shifter that has positive shift stops? I think alot of the problems come from aggressively shifting a shifter without stops. Also, I'm curious, what auto trans are you going to use? I thought about using an auto but I won't use one that doesn't have an overdrive. Joe

Joel, Are you gonna move your pickup wheel to the fronn of the damper like Tim has his?