primaz

Another option is from Technotoytuning, https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z

Could you post a video of how it operates in your car so we could hear the "noise at idle" that Godzilla Race Works forewarns anyone whom buys this tranny? Love to hear your thoughts after you have drove it a bit to get use to it, etc..

I used these general ranges and ended up with about 1.1 negative camber on all four corners, yes the car is lowered a good amount as it sits about 4 to 4.5 inches off the ground. The front wheels are +13 with 5" backspace, lip size 2.125", the rear wheels are the same: Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred Caster: 4 to 6 positive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred The best is rent or find a shop that has the offset wheel measuring tool as every brand of coil overs, springs, and cars are a little different. I had the stock fenders rolled to ensure that there were no sharp edges or rubbing. To me it is weird to hack up a Z and just run 245 or smaller tires; I do like flared Z cars and own an extremely flared Z with 345's and 285's, but when you flare it to me it should be to put much wider wheel than you can with a stock body. Yes you need to spend some money for coil overs, rolling the fenders to maximize the tire width but that will make the car handle better anyways and yes custom offset wheels are needed but to me better than cutting the car up spending money on flares, paint and body to just put the same size you can without flares.

I would recommend to upgrade with coil over setup. With good quality coil over's you would be able to go even wider than 245 since you have mild flares as I have coil overs on two of my stock body 240z cars with no flares, no rubbing and am running 245 wide tires on all four corners. If I had added flares to give 2-3" more space I would be able to over 255's and run 265 to 285's. You can see one of my 240z's with no flares running 245's on all four corners so if you have flares I would be wanting to go wider. Why cut the car and add flares if you are running the same size tires you can run without flares?

I would recommend to use 16" rims as then you can also upgrade brakes to large size with no issues. I am running 16" x 8" with 245 45's on all four corners with no flares no rubbing https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=94545&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=235/&rearRatio=50&rearDiameter=15 You can get these all street legal tires: Yokohama A008P, Advan AN052, Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Pirelli Pzero Rosso, Pirelli Pzero Collezione, Pirelli Cinturato P7 in 245 45 16

Yes I had my body shop roll the fenders. I am not sure about the +25? I know that the 245 tires fit comfortably and the rears could go a size larger with the current offset but we wanted to be able to rotate the tires to get the maximum life of the tires. As long as you focus on three piece wheels then your choices open up to any custom offset you want. I agree the CCW's look nice, I have another car with their D240 3 piece wheel and those look cool. Also there are shops that will custom re-barrel a three piece wheel and you can typically take a 16" or even a 15" wheel and change it to a 17"; not sure if that opens up options on buying a used set of rims just for the center sections? CCW used to make custom 2 piece wheels but I think they stopped doing that as the orange Z was a 2 piece welded that cut the cost by half; some smaller wheel companies may offer that as well? but I like the 3 piece in the event you hit a pot hole hard/fast you can just replace the barrel.

BBK? I assume Big Brake Kit? As long as you are using a 16" or larger it should be fine. I am running the Arizona 12.5" big brake Wilwood kit on two of my 240z cars. Actually the larger the diameter the more tire options as new cars are not using 14" or 15" anymore. For 17" there are good tire options with the Michelin Pilot Sport which is a good tire https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+All+Season+4&frontTire=445YR7PSAS4XL&rearTire=44YR7PSAS4XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes My Red 240Z is running ground control coil overs with the same Arizona 12.5" vented rotor big Wilwood brake kit and the same tires. 16" wheels has less options than the 17" I believe for the ultra low profile but there are still options in both 16" & 17". I would look carefully at the tire size and brand options and let that guide you between 16, 17" or even 18" if you are ok with the large diameter. You will need to see the options in different tire heights from 40, 45, 50 to help guide your preference. The right offset is critical to avoid rubbing and I would recommend to roll your fenders. I would recommend to spend the money for a 3 piece wheel which will be easy to replace an inside or outside barrel if you ever dent it vs the 2 piece welded versions I am running. A 240Z with 245 wide quality tires with coil overs will handle incredible, you will love the feel...

I am using CCW wheels, 16" x 8", offset +13, backspace 5", lip size 2.125" on the orange 240Z with BC Racing coilovers; that enables us to run 16x245x40 series tires on all four corners no flares and no rubbing. Every car can be slightly different as you may use different suspension such as different brand coilovers, springs, etc. By measuring using those wheel measuring tools you can determine what is the ideal offset, etc. that you can fit and thus the widest tires. Running 245's on all corners is very easy as there are others I have seen on the forums going much wider pushing their setup to the maximum. Our 240Z's with 245's, with good suspension and good quality tires handle extremely well. The orange car uses fairly soft springs to give it a very mild ride and the red z is running much stiffer springs but that is the one I drive. I like the CCW brand and styles but any good quality wheel that is a 3 piece design will enable you to custom choose the offset, etc.

It is good you have the time and skill to do that! One thing I have done on two of my 240Z cars is having beefing up the frame rails. I do not mean the kits that are out there like the Bad Dog parts but instead more heavy duty boxed frame. The first 240Z we did we welded a heavy gauge U shaped on the inside and underside matted together to form a true boxed frame. That worked good but a lot of work and you had to take out all of the interior. The next version on the second 240Z an already boxed heavy gauge metal was welded just to the underside. This work was done by Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA. Both of these worked great as the cars are so much stiffer and stronger. It actually saved my life see this post. You might consider also doing this as I think it is a great way to improve a street car for stiffness as well as safety without needing that extensive of a roll bar setup. I am building a more crazy street car that already has a 9 point cage which I plan on doing this same frame rail upgrade. My Red Z without any roll bars to me is about as stiff as my Z with a 9 point cage which is pretty cool...

My cousin used those on his caged Maverick, they work great. You just push it down and it disengages the bar so you can slide it out and when they are put back in place they just pock up and locks. They are plenty strong.

I would recommend options like this, if you must have door bars, as these will allow the bar to swing out and are spring loaded making it easier than pins, etc. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo102002.html I would also try not to go crazy on the bars as you can try to limit bars around the passenger area. There are also retractable 3 point and 4 point seat belts or just do 5 point harness on the drivers seat. Believe me most women do not like seats with 5 point seat belts nor do they like any bars near them as they are worried about being hit by them, etc. You also should consider more comfortable racing seats like the Recaro and look at their Comfort series or Dynamic which is more race but still reclines; spend more on seats that are leather, recline, adjustable and comfortable. There are a few brands that can do that and have handle a 5 point belt but not many.

The V12 will be a head turner. One thought on the cage as it really is for safety as you can get the stiffness with frame rails and strut bars; you can have the door bars swing out and there are spring activated locks for roll bars. My cousin did this on his hot rod so you have the side protection but still enables easier access. People forget that yes they are ok with climbing over bars but most others are not

Are you talking about that Race Cast LSV12? I think it has that cool factor being a V12 and does use LS engine mounts, but that I believe is a cast iron block, so why not get an aluminum block LS instead as you get the same horsepower & lighter with much more options in parts, etc.? I am all for cages but the reason why I mentioned what I did on my mild street Z's is that to me it gets the chassis stiffness without the need for a cage which is good for a more street car. Your significant other will typically not like being in a car with bars all over and if they have to climb in or over bars that car will only be driven with you in it and sometimes that causes people to sell the car unless it is for the track and they have the funds to have a lot of cars. To me for the street you really only need a cage if you want to track it and the rules require that or if you are going to the extreme and the car could roll, etc. due to crazy speeds or extreme racing. I do have one street car that does have a semi-cage because the goal is over 200 mph on the street yet I did not go all the way as I did not want to go over the line and make the car impractical for the street, which is easy to do. You car sounds like a cool build but be careful not to go over the line as it sounds like your car is like my cars primarily street.

Twisted, One other bit of information that I wanted to share as I know many people are using the Bad Dog parts but what I did was have Ken at Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA whom did their own versions which I feel is way better than the Bad Dog which is not fully boxed. Their first version was done on my RedZ 240 where they mated two heavy gauge steel U shaped pieces that are just a bit wider but not by much more than the stock Z rails and by welding an inside and and underside piece they form a fully boxed rail that appears stock if you are not a Z freak. On my wife's orange 240Z they used their new design which is a fully boxed heavy gauge steel rail that is welded just on the underside. Either way that creates a fully boxed frame and that I believe creates a stiffer setup than the Bad Dog non boxed rail.

Great build and would love to know all of the tweaks, etc. to get the RB engine in there! I plan on having RIP's build me an RB30 turbo for my 240Z Primadonna Z. Very curious to see how the intercooler and the turbo piping will be installed. Please continue to post pictures when you are doing the rest of the build FYI, on another restomod 4 door that I installed a mild LS1 that I have completed, you might consider using the Heatshield Products, https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-shield and line the entire tunnel and under all of the exhaust pipes. I wished I had done that on my other restomod but I did not think of that before I installed the engine so I did the best I could be adding it afterwards but not as good to do as it would be to do on yours now before too many parts get installed.

Twisted, I agree that a cage is needed for safety for a track car. What I do think is that for a street car the frame rail upgrades can achieve a lot of chassis stiffness that is better than many mild cages but not as much as a more extreme cage. For the street it is good to me as you get more stiffness than just a simple hoop cage and strut bars and more than a cage with a hoop and even a diagonal bar. I have another 240Z with a 9 point cage but not a full cage, it has a hoop that is welded also to the strut tower, a welded bar between the strut towers, welded bars behind the strut tower to the back of the car, a diagonal bar going to the passenger floor area near the tunnel, bars from the front towers to the center of the firewall and my other two 240Z's with the frame rails to me are about the same and possibly a little more as I can jack the car and have three wheels off the ground. I was very impressed with what the frame rails can do without a cage but do plan on adding them to my caged car which is also a street car. There are lot of people that do a more simple cage for the street and then you have more hassle for using the car on the street and the frame rails can do the same or more for chassis stiffness but they do not protect against a roll over or other types of crashes, although it did save me from the rear end accident thank god....

The do make great products and I am upgrading one of my 240's to their upgraded front/rear A-arms, tubular crossmember, inner/outer tie rods, and steering knuckles. One of the shops Dando's Automotive in Fremont, I use is in early stages of installing the Track Attack package. They are waiting on parts from Apex to finish the install. I did look at where they are on the install and it looks cool. What I have heard is that the kit so far is well made and installs with no issues other than Apex really should provide a good written installation instructions, thankfully Dando's is very skilled at fabrication and Z's so they figured out the install but probably wasted 2-3 hours due to the lack of instructions not provided. You do have to mod the rear spare tire well so I do not believe you will be able to put a spare tire in there unless it is 100% flat with no air? but who cares I too am eager to see how it works and right now I do plan on using the Track Attack kit for my Primadonna Z in the future when I have time/energy to get back to that build.

I do not see rolling the fenders on a 240z affecting the value in my opinion. If you roll the fender the car looks stock and if you use the tool jhm mentioned you can get a custom offset wheel. I have two (2) 240Z's no flares but both have rolled fenders running 16x8.5" rims running 245 40 tires on all four corners which fills up the well very nicely and looks very clean. The extra width makes big improvement in handling... I have seen others even put wider tires than I have with no flares either just squeezing it to the max. I wanted to keep all four the same so I can rotate the wheels to get the maximum use of the tires. If you do not lower the car as much you can run the same tires as I have. The Red Z is pretty low, around 4" off the ground and the orange one is higher.

jhm is right you should look at Tire Rack and see what tires are available. You do know that you can get custom white lettering stickers to stick on any tire, with that you might widen your options going to a 15, 16, or even 17" as a 240Z with coil overs can typically take an 8.5" wide rim and if you roll the fenders you can easily put 245 or even a bit wider on all four corners. The smaller diameter tires are being phased out so your options are limited...

What I have found is that by upgrading the factory frame rail sections from the rear all the way to the front it works better than a cage which is great for using the car for street and track. I had this done by Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA. Their first versions were using heavy gauge "u" shaped rails under and inside the car which mimicked the stock which was hard to even see it was modified. The second Z we did there they found a boxed steel that was just welded underneath and that worked almost as clean without needing to weld inside. FYI, I have a third Z with a 9 point cage and these other more stock street machine Z cars have a chassis in my opinion is as stiff if not stiffer without using a cage! Also as proof my RedZ was on the freeway stopped in traffic and a Prius hit me at over 55 mph and the car was not totaled nor was the chassis bend bad at all and I survived, which I might not have if I did not do this frame rail work. That is why I did it to my wife's Z, just purely for safety not for performance for her Z. I included two pictures of the car after getting hit and one after fixing it. If any 240Z got rear ended this hard without the frame rails it would be totaled and me the driver probably might not have survived or would be injured for sure. The crushing of the rear stopped due to the rear frame rails being so strong. I got pushed into the next car and was so pissed off but so glad for the frame rails as it saved my life and my car's life!

Wow that is cool, I did not realize you are on this forum; you designed the kit at Godzilla! That new kit you are developing using the TL70 sounds like a great transmission option, when do you think that will be available and where will it be sold? Hopefully this will help people understand my goals. For the two (2) 240's I mentioned at the start of this post, they are street cars mainly with weekend racing in the mountains. One is more mild with a Datsun Spirt 2.8 stage 2 and the other is a Datsun Spirit 3.0 with my head that DL Potter ported. Both are sporting coil over suspensions with 245's on all four corners & Arizona Z car Wilwood brake upgrade, one is more mild for my wife and the other has every APEX Engineering option to upgrade the stock suspension. They are fine right now both with Nissan Competition 5 speeds but my question was since it seems like nobody has parts and I am not sure if I can ever get them rebuilt, is why I wanted to know what the options are if one of those failed. The intent is just reliable Z cars to street race and have fun with. Neither car is focused for the quarter mile but rather spirited driving on the street. I like how the Nissan Competition tranny can provide good acceleration thru the gears with the ability to control the car in the mountains leaving it 2nd and third in hard cornering and ability to downshift even to first gear in a 15 MPH corner. We both like the feel of stick shift and want the Z's to be great general purpose sports cars to punch off the line but mainly drive thru the mountains curves. I have a more extreme 240z that I am building and that will have a RIPS RB34. I am too far away from finishing that so I have not looked into what other RB owners are using for transmissions. When I finish that car it will be a street car like our other Z's but intended to race other exotic sports cars on the street in the mountains and freeways; it will be putting down 700-800 HP and that car is the famous Primadonna Z car with massive 345's and 285's or possibily 315's in the front, but that is a couple years away...

I think that is why that full kit for $4750 is more of a true cost as it includes the 6 speed tranny but you still need to factor another $200-$500 for shipping so it is really more like $5350 most likely. I think any good tranny will be around $5K when you are all done but will it be easily serviced in the future? That G-force T5 could be a good option if that company stays in business so that the internals can always be rebuilt? I love the Nissan Competition 5 speeds, my only worry is I am not sure what or where to go if I break it? They shift so nice and really increase the response of the Z but are so rare nowadays...

so you mean a Borg Warner T5 transmission used in Fords will bolt right up to our Nissan L-series engines? and then use G-Force Transmissions to build up their internal gear set https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp ? Am I understanding you correctly? and what do you mean by DS?

I read that Hoke Performance is no longer making his kit to adapt the 350Z 6 speed transmissions to the L series engines. I have two (2) 240Z's with 2.8 and 3.0 liter engines both with the rare Nissan Competition 5 Speed close synchro 5 speeds but not even sure if there are places that and rebuild those anymore if anything every happens to them? I think Les Collins Racing all the way down in Australia may still work on the Nissan competition race boxes but not sure if anyone in the USA does? What are the options now for an L-series engines as far as transmissions? I am just curious as both of my trannies are in good shape but curious as to what you guys are doing now if you have a performance L-series engine? I saw this kit for the CD00A 6 speed for $4,750 but that requires a GPS speedo as there are no provisions for a manual speedo and you need to cut the stock transmission tunnel (not sure how much hacking that means? Also gear train noise prevalent with these trannies, not sure how loud or annoying that is? I used SPEC 1 clutch on my Nissan Comp 5 speeds and really like how they work for a street car, wondering how those work with the CD00A as they say the noise is different with different clutches? ). https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain/complete-cd00a-6-speed-swap-for-l-series-engines What other transmission options are there for an L-series now?

I thought the idea of the SubtleZ kit was to give you 1.5" extra width without looking like it was flared, so why add any lip flares to it? A stock body 240z with rolled fenders can easily handle a 245 in the front and a 245 to 275 in the rear with the right offset so with 1.5" extra you should be able to add some healthy rubber on the ground... I am going to build a RIPS RB34 for my Primadonna Z; love his engines!