JMortensen

I have a friend who fits this description perfectly. She FREAKS when I drive her Z. I get the idea of the thread, I just thought maybe a dissenting opinion was in order. Choking down an L6 is in my estimation counterproductive, and as you point out, there are other ways to change the powerband without having to resort to smaller than usual ports.

Right. L6's generally are known for their torque. Hamstringing an L6 motor with even smaller ports just doesn't seem like the best idea to me.

Just wanted to point out that the standard L6 head already has tiny ports. Compare it to the big port SSS L4 heads and you'll see what I mean, they're much larger, around 1.5". Going even tinier is a step in the wrong direction in my opinion unless you really just want low end grunt. Even then, there are better ways to get low end grunt, like swapping a V8.

In the future, the way to tell if there is a problem is to lay the valve on its side and roll it. If it wobbles, its tuliped. Putting two different valves in there will change the compression on one cylinder vs another. Not a big deal on a truck motor, but still crappy workmanship.

Ricer to me means that you put something on that doesn't do anything, or you put something on for looks. If wings work and are used, then they aren't ricey. If they're bolted to the trunk of a Honda where the force of the wing will literally tear out the bolts or the car is a street driver that never sees the kind of speeds that would justify adding the wing, then that's ricey. That's my take anyway.

Why don't you just reverse engineer one of those ET calculators? Plug in your ET and your weight and it should give you the hp you need to get there. Or plug in your weight and change the hp until you get the ET you want. Once you know the hp requirement the rest is all up to you as the driver.

That's it.

I've heard people talking about a new Rustoleum epoxy for appliances on other forums. It's supposedly a MUCH better and stronger paint than their enamel, and should work well for this purpose from what I've read.

Some cars use foam strips from the factory. My 93 Toyota P/U had foam stuffed between the condensor and the radiator from the factory. On the Toy it was very similar to foam weather stripping like you'd buy at the hardware store, but without the adhesive backing.

I've liked everything except their air body saw which was completely useless and I refuse to use cheap impact guns. I haven't tried a sander but I'd be a bit skeptical there as well. Drills, die grinders, angle grinders, sheet metal shears all work great. They're so cheap I just bought different die grinders for different tasks so I don't have to change bits.

How about a Syclone driveline?

It's not impossible to hog those 510 manifolds out to fit Z SU's on them. I know a guy who ran Z SU's on an L20B. Ran pretty good too! That said, it does seem like a backasswards way to get the job done.

My valves were tuliped when this was filmed: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2000-autox-indisde-and-outside-I-think-my_8051.htm The jackass machinist I used the first time I built my engine cut the valves way too much and the geometry was F'ed up, he really screwed that valve job up bad. Anyway, just because the valves are tuliped a little bit doesn't mean the engine won't run decently well.

We used to have one, but it was deemed a security risk. No reason you can't post your AIM number in your sig or something like that.

I was wondering how you were going to "shave" a bumpsteer spacer down... That sure would be a nice piece of equipment to have in the shop. Congratulations.

Plenty of examples to look at. If you put the intake into or next to your radiator duct, that's good. You can see pics of preith's beautiful car here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121944&page=2 You could also put it in the cowl like EMWHYROHEN: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138065&page=9

Here's my not very popular take on intercoolers and radiators. They should be sealed together so that any air that goes through the IC has to go through the rad. Having the IC sit 6" in front of the radiator means that the air really isn't forced to flow through it, and since the fins are a restriction to airflow they don't work in that position as well as they would if the air had to go through. The air just goes around for the most part. Ideally you would have an air box from the front of the car to the radiator opening, IC sealed to the radiator, radiator sealed to the core support. This would mean that all the air that comes in the front of the car has to go through the IC, radiator, or both.

Would it be possible to turn threads farther down the shaft and cut the excess off?

Launch in 2nd.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

I think C&D proved you wrong on that one back in the 70s. I know I've seen the article online somewhere, I looked but couldn't find it. Hopefully someone will point us to a link. If I recall they put a spook and a spoiler of their own construction on the car and lowered drag, increased downforce, and gained mpg. Grim, your gurneys in front of the wheels can be seen on the new Z06 Vette. Splitters are known to work, although exactly what downforce you'll get from yours depends on the design and the car. I wouldn't do an intake scoop on one side and an exit on the other. I'd do exits on both sides and then put the intake in the cowl or in the rad core support. The vents in the cowl aren't significantly affecting the high pressure stagnant area in front of the cowl if the fresh air vents in the car are closed. By using some of the pressure to move air whether it be into the engine or passenger compartment I think you'll see increased flow over the windshield. I think the goal for most of us is going to be to increase downforce at the expense of drag, unless you're Tony D and going for a land speed record.

As for books, I'd suggest "The Four Pillars of Investing" by Bernstein. Read it and you'll see that bubbles are not a new phenomenon, Money magazine is not the place to get your investing info, a 401k is not necessarily the best place to put your money, and now is the time to buy.

I have no love for the stock seals. I'd put these in any motor I built now that I know about them.

I wanted to buy Brian's tow hooks but planned on modifying them, particularly the rears, because I intend to tie the car down on the trailer with them. I emailed Brian about it and he actually special ordered them without the bend and paint for me. Can't ask for much better service than that! Thanks Brian.

There is a FAQ for strut sectioning that answers all the questions you might have. The Tokicos fit relatively loosely in the housing, so your precision doesn't have to be quite as high as if you were installing Konis.