JMortensen

They must not export the Duramax or the Powerstroke diesels to your neck of the woods. They have it figured out for the big trucks, and these are big engines. I think the reason they don't do a really good small engine is because of the US emissions laws. We're particular about the sulfur in the diesel fuel, from what I understand. I guess I had assumed that they would have a better diesel for the overseas markets. I'm a bit surprised to hear they don't. Supposedly for the 2010 model year GM is going to release a smaller turbodiesel for the 1500 series trucks, which if it followed the gas engines would be somewhere in the 5-6 liter range. Might have to go buy a new truck when that comes out.

I think it was a previous attempt to equalize the braking. I'd get some R4S pads for the front. I don't know anything about the Wilwood pads, but I have driven the R4S on the street and there is no lack of bite at low temps.

The E31 is prized by the ITS and EP guys because they aren't allowed to use heads off of the other L engines. They're stuck with the original L24 heads, and the E31 has the smallest chamber. I think its not a good choice for a turbo. Compression would be too high and needs retrofits for the FI. Porting is less important on a turbo engine since you have pressure cramming the chambers full, but if you were really hung up on it, you could port the P90 and keep the lower compression. In very simplistic terms, high compression turbos are boost limited. Low compression turbos have more lag but also more power potential.

I'd like to see more pics of the second car if you have them. I think johnc was trying to say that if you have an oil cooler in front of the radiator and no seal between the air dam and the radiator, then the air doesn't have to flow through the radiator. By sealing everything up to the core support you ensure that the air going in has to go through the radiator. Once that is done, the idea is to get the air out of the engine compartment. Best way to do that is through the top or the sides. Out the bottom is worst in terms of downforce.

That GM 6.2 diesel is possibly the worst motor ever. Great for towing... not so much. Try pulling a ~1000 lb boat behind a mid 80s diesel Blazer up a grade. 25 mph with your foot to the floor, black smoke pouring out the back!!! What a POS!!!

Did you actually read the whole thread?

Yours are not that big in the scheme of things. I bought a new computer so I don't have my old emails, but I did email Tilton (after I had already bought masters) and they recommended something like a 1" and 1 1/8", and thats with a 4.75:1 pedal ratio. I guess I'm glad I already bought the masters... What kind of pads are they? On your brake bias testing, I'd go with #1. Another option I'm aware of is using brake pressure gauges, but you'd still need to know what pressure made the tires lock up, so #1 still makes more sense and it's a hell of a lot cheaper.

I never understood airdams that have giant holes in the front. I'd bet if you cover the holes up you could expect to see a few mpg.

Unless you change the arc that the rear control arm swings on, bending the strut is not going to eliminate the bind. If you bend the strut, it will be at a fixed angle, moving perpendicular to the top. So you might have one spot in its travel where there was no bind, and relatively little on either side of that sweet spot, but the further you got, the worse the bind would be. In order to move the top back you need the control arm to articulate and allow for no bind all the way through. In other words, you'd need a rear A arm and toe link setup instead of an H arm. See this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129154 This might be a good idea when welding camber plates in with a stock arm, just to ensure no side load on the strut.

That should be fine. I'd go 44s.

If you follow the formulas for figuring carb size that you'll find in Weber and Mikuni manuals, they'll tell you that 44's or 45's are the right size for the L28. The old Mikuni adverts showed a 15% gain with 44's compared to stock FI on an L28 if I recall. Other than that one point I agree with Mark. The engine is a system, and you'll get the best results by building it to match your goals from top to bottom. Putting one aftermarket part (especially triples) on an otherwise stock engine won't get the best results from that part or the engine as a whole.

Well we know that exact phrases work on google.com, and the google search engine in the search box is basically the same one you get at google.com. I do know that it takes 4-6 weeks for google's spider to come through and update when I make changes to my business website. I think if you tried your search in 6 weeks it would probably work. I know that doesn't help you in your immediate need to find the bearing race you're looking for, but maybe that explains why your search for your title didn't get results.

Quotes should work. I'd suggest you use the google search as it is a lot better than the hybrid z search. I tried your key phrase and unfortunately nothing came up.

I'm surprised. When I read your master cylinder size choices and your pedal ratio I thought you were going to have a spongy soft pedal with a lot of travel. This definitely sounds like a pad that is too racey for the street. I had the same "holy ♥♥♥♥ it's not stopping" feeling when I tried to drive on Porterfield R4 pads to the track. After that experience I'd bed them in and then put on some street pads, and swap the pads at the track.

I found out a couple days ago they do the same in WA state...

Tru-traks are pretty bulletproof, but even if you broke it 3 times you'd still come in under the cost of the Quaife!

Not that I can see by the description. Could be more aggressive due to the different pitch on the helicals. I have to disagree here, but probably because I'm more of an autoxer than a road racer. Helical LSDs are a great idea, but they do have limitations. Tight turns that unload the inside rear will cause the Quaife to spin the tire. Coffey had to send his out to have it shimmed tighter (something they claim you never have to do). They can also break axles when the tire gets traction again, more so than a CLSD. Price is another consideration. I think the Quaife in particular costs about 4 or 5 times what it should. As an example it is possible to buy an American made Tru-trak helical LSD for a Chevy 8.5" diff, for ~$400 every day of the week, not on sale. Yet the Quaife costs closer to $2K for the R200. WHY??? http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=1660

Congratulations Terry. I'm sure in combination with the new longblock this is going to make the blueovalz even more fun to drive.

The Quaife has helical gears which are free floating inside the case. The gears are driven by the side gears until they hit the sides of the case, then when they hit the case the resistance of the gear turning against the case provides the torque transfer to the inside wheel. There are belleville springs to smooth out the action. Torsens come in a very similar design to the Quaife, and then the one pictured here. This design doesn't let the gears float, instead they slide on an axle until they hit the case. I think the Torsen design should be superior, and I've talked to people who ran the Tru-trak which is essentially like the Quaife and they said it popped and crunched when reversing and sometimes also when changing directions (think slaloms). My understanding is that the Quaife, Tru-trak, and similar Torsen are one way LSDs. I believe the Torsen pictured could be a 1.5 way or a 2 way. The only "new" thing here that I can see is lower cost and the possibility of more aggressive helical gears, which would give more traction to the inside wheel.

Toughen up. This idea that the nut fit the 280Z was posted one or two pages ago and disproved. It's bad form to post erroneous information in the thread that disproved it, but it happens. Take your lumps and move on.

Try a different pad material.

Search "janspeed". There have been several threads and posts about it, I think the owner hung around for a time, might even still be here.

I'd like to see it. I've seen the Mitsu paper on the VG's and I've seen the comparo with the Subaru and Mitsu side by side, but I've never seen anything that shows the effectiveness of this particular piece. I am definitely a skeptic at heart, and my guess is that it has no diffuser effect as shown in the pictures. I'd love to be proven wrong.

I would assume they would sell anything they can make money on.

Stage III is too small for your intended use. The Racer Brown cam is about right, maybe a bit on the small side.