Metro

Your threads are what got me started with Megasquirt over a decade ago, so it's great to see you posting again. You have my condolences too, that's an awful thing to go through.

Side note: I have a 280z style Xenon airdam from about 2003 or 2004 and it's super flexible. I once parked on a curb and it just rolled up under the car (oops). Recently I purchased a 240z style and it's super stiff compared to the old one. Which is unfortunate because one side is all wonky and was really difficult to get bolted to the headlight bucket.

I used a welded VR distributor for many years on my L28et. I had to adjust the internal plate all one way and use a low trigger angle of around 17 degrees (which puts MS into next cylinder mode). But SleeperZ is right, you'll want to make sure the spark is going to the correct post at all ranges of advance. I just set mine up so that it's pointing at the middle of the post and that seemed to work fine.

I haven't really been following this thread, but DIY recommends running all sensors through the VR input circuit, I'm guessing to give you access to the pots to reduce noise. If the pots are out of adjustment, the engine will cut out like a rev limiter past a certain RPM (like 3k+) and/or the RPM signal will go from a smooth line to a saw tooth in your logs. Without using an oscilloscope, I don't think you'll be able to adjust it right now. I found the easiest way was to rev the engine up and adjust the pots until it stopped cutting out, then go for a drive and repeat. You'll want to have a decently tuned map before doing that though.

As Jacky mentioned, the MapDaddy MAP sensor is plug'n'play and will solve your barometric issues. Use a temperature sensor mounted in the thermostat housing, many people here have done that. Running MS3 with with only Alpha-N to tune it is a mildly amusing to me. You have an expensive high resolution ECU, you should take full advantage of it!

After reading my own thread the GSXR throttle bodies are actually 46mm. The opening is 48mm, but it necks down quite a bit. so it's the number that sticks out in my mind. My Jenvey ITBs are 48mm straight through though. A 45mm throttle body is probably large enough for most things. If you know what you're doing (I don't necessarily) tuning the intake for a specific RPM range or output, there's probably a formula out there for optimum size. I just know from reading that with EFI, having a large throttle body won't hurt performance (nor will it necessarily gain any). I'm sure someone far more knowledgeable than me will come along. Anyway, you seem to have everything else worked out in regards to Megasquirt. Good luck, it's a steep learning curve, but with MS3x, they've made it quite a bit easier.

I used 48mm GSXR ITBs to clamped to DCOE flanges, looks cool, but I really don't recommend it. Pedal throw without a very slow progressive throttle linkage is like half an inch from idle to full throttle. Anyway, it's really not worth the headache, get Jenveys. In the end, I might have saved $200, but had a million little headaches to deal with. Pics are in this thread. If you still want to go down that route, DCOE spec is 90mm bore center and about 110mm bore center between the sets of carbs.

Yeah I jumped on the $180 chrome bumpers, I think I paid more for fiberglass ones. It's really unfortunate they're gone though. I had noticed their catalog shrinking over the years, so I suppose it was inevitable.

It really does sound vintage. Modern I6s, even with ITBs, simply lack that sound.

This guy just swapped a Honda J series v6 into his Z recently. You'll likely have to go through all the things he did.

That's essentially what I had him make. No before and after is possible though. I had to hound him daily and threaten to dispute the payment in order to get it done. I was happy with what I received, but he definitely screwed over a lot of people.

I love the look of those classic seats, but I wonder how comfortable they would be.

I picked up a set of those mirrors after seeing the post earlier in the week. They're pretty decent quality, far better than the rotting plastic MSA mirrors I've had for years. All the hardware is metal and the chrome seems nice enough. I could care less about the carbon fiber, but the finish and weave is good. I haven't mounted them yet, but the ball joint feels very solid. The mirror glass is more brown than silver, but it doesn't warp much. My only complaint is that the edge where it was cut out of the mold was left unfinished.

This site has a really useful calculator for our engines http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Like many have said, if you want the quench pad, go for a later head. P79s are fairly easy to get and the exhaust liners are good for flow. A P79 or P90 head will give you 8.79:1. I'm not sure how much volume is reduced by shaving, but you can play with the head CC in the calculator and then figure out how much you need to remove.

For a long time, I used 450cc DSM o-ring injectors with the plastic away and fuel line stuffed over the o-ring holder. It's possible you could do the same thing with other injectors. If you do decide to get an o-ring rail in the future, they will still work with it as well.

That's awful, my condolences to all. Just echoing what everyone else has said, he was a wealth of knowledge and a real presence here.

It seems like all the manifold kits come with one, except the one I bought. I ended up taking a bell crank off a throttle body and welding it to one of the keepers at the end of the rod. Now that I have Jenvey ITBs I'm using their progressive cable pull that mounts to the carb/throttle body. Their kit might work if your carbs have the same diameter throttle shaft and orientation.

That is the deal of the century if everything that's shown in the pictures is actually included in the kit. There's at least $600 worth of parts in the pictures not explicitly listed in the description. Even for just the ITBs, manifold, gasket, and linkage, that's still a pretty good price.

You need to check the fuel pressure under load, while driving. It has to be extremely bad for low fuel pressure to show up at idle. Messing with the AFM is almost always the wrong answer.

I'll be honest it's been a while since I've had to troubleshoot the ignitors and I'm going off of memory. I believe the light should flicker, if it's steady on you might have a short or something. How is your BIP373 mounted, is it in the case? As for grounds, you want all your sensor grounds to go to the same place (on the ECU) and then run the main MS ground to the block. What you have sounds correct. Also yes, your ECU is working properly if it's seeing a steady 250-300rpm while cranking. Could you upload your MSQ? The forum won't allow the MSQ to be uploaded, so zip the file first.

The voltage for your coil sounds low, it should be around 12 volts. Also I'm not sure how your car is wired, but I always wire my coil to the fuel pump relay that Megasquirt controls. That means, the coil is only on when the ECU senses the motor is spinning.

Sounds like you're on the right track. If I read correctly, you've tested two other MS3 boxes with the car and it doesn't work with any? I would check the wiring for the coil to make sure it has power when cranking. Next see if it is receiving a signal from the ECU. You should be able to test the output from the BIP373 with LED and wire or a test light. It will be outputting a ground signal to the coil, so attach one side to 12v and the other to the coil (-) wire. It should blink steadily when you crank.

Skimming that thread and I don't see that you've ever verified your timing. You can't take any numbers from the internet without testing and verifying that they're correct. Disconnect the fuel injectors, lock the timing to 10 degrees in MS and then get a timing light to verify it's reading 10 degrees at the crank.

So it sounds like you've connected MS to the coil's negative post. While MS can work that way, it's an antiquated method. Sounds like you might have configured the input incorrectly too. With a 280z, you can directly connect the VR sensor in the distributor to MS. One wire (either red or green, I can't recall) to pin 24 and the other to a ground pin on the ECU. Then configure the jumpers for a VR input. If the coil VE method is still causing the ECU to reset, I would recommend going this way.