randy 77zt

Poor ground at the obd 2 jack?

Try pick&pull.Or try making a new part by cutting off a long metric bolt .You can buy the little hair pins at a hardware store

To get 300+ hp out of a 302 you will need afterrmarket cylinder heads.you will not get a 300hp 302 even out of a later mustang with efi.This will require a mild custom build.Any 302 out of a later model ford(crown vic,lincoln) will work.I f you get right down to it there is not much left that will be oem ford except for the bottem end.

Switched from walbro to bosch 044 pump.the walbro is really designed to be an in tank pump.I had my pump mounted even with the bottem of my tank with -6 hose earl's push lok hose clamped on at the tank .car is a 1977-the tank has a 3/8 or 10mm hose nipple and I know that works.if i idled the car on a hot day the fuel pressure would drop with the walbro.the bosch is mounted lower with an earl's 80 micron screen filter before it

buy my car and i will fly home?

Its all standard pipe thread.Remove the nipples you want to replace with plugs and take them to the hardware store with you.

The crossmember is not centered in the car?It should be measuered with the car on flat ground.you can get a digital angle gauge and mount to a 2x2 that is cut to fit on your wheel rims.

I always thought about lexan to replace the hatch glass-smoked and gets rid of the defroster wires.I have a race seat for my car on track days and its about %50 lighter than a stock seat.

Oil starvation in the turns?I have ran 13-14 lbs boost all day at thunderhill(3.2 miles per lap) at 100 degress no problem.but I dont believe in the new lower viscosity oil types.I prefer valvoline 20-50 racing.Most motor oil doesnt have moly or zinc in it anymore.Take your time during the teardown/autopsy.IF just the rod bearings are afffected I would be thinking preignition .If all parts are affected it would be oil starvation.even though my car ran on pump gas I always ran 10 gallons of 100 octane race gas + some pump on track days-cheap insurence.the race gas was 100 no lead.

Maybe the engine block and the car body arent grounded correctly.I have an odessey battery mounted in the back of my car.I ran both 0 size welding cable to the starter=gound and +.the battery should be grounded directly to the engine block.check the voltage on the wire from the key that excites the alternator.Running a ground from the battery to the body -then from the body to the engine is asking for trouble

there is a 1972 down the street with a very clean body-but the intereor is shot from the sun-its in modesto

You can swap the pinion flanges on the r200s.Everybody thinks they need a t5 with a turbo but thats a bunch of bs unless you are drag racing.the zx trans has the best ratios-closer 1 to 4th gears and a taller 5th I run a turbo l28,zxt na 5 speed,stock 77 drive shaft,1986 3.7 r200 clsd with the 77 pinion flange.But i bult the car for road course track days-not drag racing .the zx na trans shifts the best with redline mtl oil.a t5 doesnt work as smooth

I would use the 75-78 car as the unit body is stiffer.A 73 should have a roll cage-strut tower-frame rail tie connection job done on it.then I would find a ka24 drievtrain out of a 240sx and install-probably an auto trans.for the rear end I would use 3.9 or 4.1 R200 with welded spiders.I would probably just machine some lift blocks for the top of the struts out of billet aluminum.Some slighly stiffer 12" coil overs on good struts with no sway bars.tire would be 30"X9.5X15 .a v8 drivetrain in an unbraced car would eventually break the unit body.The real problem is getting the most suspension travel as possable.

There is probably something wrong(or many things) and it will take some obscure expensive part or a lot of re-engineering to fix.

Best impact gun is an IR244.Old school heavy but very high torque.

No flaming here.Just trying to figure out where the exhaust gas goes in & out.I am sure there is some high dollar gadget for this but you are doing the best you can with a limited budget.You will learn from doing something.I could use some kind of portable wide band because I do alot of motorcycle carb work.If you lived close to me we could try it on my z to see if it matches the permanently installed inovate unit on my car.Welding bungs on something you just want to check quickly is not an option.

I have an ase master auto tech certification-and lowered cars do suck to work on.Best thing to do as a shop manager is to explain to the owner that because the car is modifieid the mitchell flat rate time manual does not apply to their car anymore and any work done will be straight time+ materials.I used to work as a suspension/brake tech in ford dealerships for 15 years.if you have done alignments and fully understand what can happen when a car is lowered(unable to adjust car to specs while on the alignment rack) you wouldnt lower a car.Changing springs usually results in a car having only 1-2" of suspension travel before the modified bump stops are hit and if it bottems out at speed the car can lose control.my z is lowered but not slammed to the ground and still has about 2.5" of travel.If I lower it more it handle worse at the track.My favorite vehicle to study is a baja race truck.24" of travel with less than 1/4" of toe change through the range of wheel travel.

Stock timing is 20btdc..if you cant get it in spec and you use up all of the adjustment on the cas bracket the your oil pump is probably not installed correctly.Put the motor on tdc of #1 cylinder compression stroke and check to see if the distributor rotor in under #1 wire terminal in the dizzy cap.If you reclock the dizzy put the cas back in the center of the brackit and recheck the timing.If can get a stock fpr. I ran stock 81zxt electronics for years.The 90 tooth crank wheel can be used to fire other aftermarket efi systems.

More alternatives mean cheaper engines--Problem is that you almost need the whole car to carefully extract the wire harnesses for the engine.But with the bigger brakes and rear diff if you were a crafty kind of guy you could probably use alot of the donor car.The r model is supposed to be fast.

engine assembly porn-with manifold pics.This is a gm-holden engine.

Cams break because some machine shops mill only the block side of the head if it is warped.Both sides of the head have to be milled.If you bolt on used parts with out checking them out by a machinist you are rolling the dice.

The australian v8 supercar engines have an awesome looking cross ram intake on them-a company like Kinsler probably has them

I used to be a ford dealer tech but got out in 2007 .I had to do some home study on this engine.Found the specs here http://www.meadowlandford.com/ford-3.7l-engine-specs.htm Seems it is a base f150 truck engine.the 6 speed auto would keep the engine in a tight rpm range right where it produces its best power.10.5/1 compression and can run on 87 octane or e85?That z is probably getting 30 mpg on cheap gas.Cam running on bucket cam followers like a motorcycle valvetrain.Since this engine didnt come out of a performance car it will be cheap to buy .found out it is also used in a mustang with a manual trans.This is what hybrid z is really about-taking a chance and doing something different-not following the crowd.

I used to work as a ford dealer tech.There is a ford manual called evtm-it is the wiring diagram book.get 1 for the year of your engine and it should be very easy to wire up.There are aftermarket harness kits but I would only use this approach if I bought a motor with no harness or ecm.Wire the engine separate from the car-use the key+ and start signal from the key to trigger the ecm but power the efi system direct from the battery and ground the efi system direct to the battery.Do not depend on body grounds.The oil pressure sender and the water temp sender are common pipe thread .I run a odessey dry cell battery in the back of my car with size 0 welding cable direct to the starter -ground and positive.Plan on spending money of the fuel system.Those walbro 255lph external pumps will not suck fuel from the tank-they need to be gravity fed from a surge tank-I have had problems with these pumps on my turbo engine and switched to a bosch 044 pump mounted very low .I rebuilt my fuel system with aluminum line and lots of earl's push lock fittings and hose.There is software called tweecer to tune the ford ecm.