emeraldlion

This has been discussed before, and I think Tony D mentioned that unless you are going to restore it to exact factory condition then the low vin means very little. Unless you just want to say ,"Hey mine is older than yours." If you get it for cheap, great. Go for it. But if you plan on modifying it or changing things here and there, then don't pay for the vin, just get it because you want to.

It most likely wouldn't be worth it. Let's say you have a 500 deductible, they pay you 1000 and decide to total, you pay 500 to buy it back. Back at square one AND you had to go through all the hassle. I have always insured my older cars for a specific amount before hand. You may pay a little more but you know the value on it. Sorry to hear about the misshap. Hope it is rectified as pain-less as possible.

I like what they did with the re-iteration. I think it looks MUCH more like the original beetle especially with the polished hubcaps. Do I own one? No. Will I buy one? No. I do think it is a much better tribute though. I have owned a Karmann ghia and I do not think I would buy ANY rebadged version, the original was just too great.

I understand that there may have been a benefit to big blocks at one point. I think that they are losing their benefit because of the large amount of variation in stroke/bore combos with a small block dimension. Not to mention the power levels now being made by LS engines these days. I have a hard time seeing the benefit of the big block build in our application, giving the extra work it requires.

I have yet to see an LS carb conversion that fit under the stock hood. John's Cars here in dallas, brokenkitty.com sells the LS conversion kits for the s30 chassis. A big block for the sake of orinigality would probably be creating problems and giving yourself unecessary work. There are a few who have done it. If you wanted to be original I would shoot for a mopar engine and try to make that work instead.

I know this thread is pretty old, but was cruizing the board today, and after sticking with mongo's last build I was wondering where this has gone. Very interested to know if any progress has been made Mongo!

Lol I know I keep saying this but mine will eventually gets their, bumper shock holes, and rattle can black patches in-tow. Just as a warning, if you want to get a decent spot and not park in spectator parking you are probably going to have to show around 630. People have been arriving earlier and earlier. When I got their at 8 this month it was PACKED. May have to just start a "datsun" row in spectator parking.

Aww C'mon guys. I am not saying I would ever do this to my car, or allow my wife to do it to hers, but let's not falme the girls for wanting to mod their rides in their way. I thought it was kinda clever on the caddy and the bug. Definitely lets you know it's a chick's car(not that the bug wasn't already). The old bugs have had chrome "eyelids" for a long time, this is just one step further. Kinda like someone adding flares without cutting the fenders, or stick on hood vents, or bmw z3 fenders to their civic. P.S.- I am wholly prepared for uber-flaming for "semi"-standing behind them for this, lol.

You have been making some incredible progress. Looking good. Definitely expect to see it at the april cars and coffee in plano now.

Check member 280zcar and his build thread titled 280zcar 280zturbo build. He ended up going v8 and he is has a large bulkhead connector installed in firewall. Very clean looking. May be more work than you were thinking about, but along those lines.

There are 4 bolts that bolt the seat frame to the support rail in the floor board. Just unbolt those and take the whole seat/frame out. I think they were just saying that their cars had a po replace the bolts with large screws.

I would still go carb v8, but start with a 400sbc instead of the 283 on the cheap.

My wife was dead set against me selling the '73 240 I had that was already set up for autox, but I just couldn't turn down the offer. She has since been nothing but supportive of my purchase of a solid well running, WITH working a/c '28 280 with minimal miles, AND me tearing the whole thing apart ditching the a/c gutting the interior and making a v8 autox car. She even supports the paint job if it is blue with white lemans stripes.

Automatic car, two toned blue with silver hood. Non-running complete turbo. Car is 90% rust free, garaged for past 2 years, unsure of history before that. Complete interior in OK condition. Cleaned up and running I would say a solid 6-7/10 car. T-tops. 96k miles. If I could get it for 750-900 do you think it would be worth it? Mainly considering resale value either parts or whole if I could get it driving condition

I have a low compression 283(8.5:1) installed right now and minimal accessories. I just received my deka/big-crank etx-14l. I will let you guys know how it fares once I intall it and crank. 220 CCA measured at 0* with a 12AH rating (10H rate). Haven't seen what the 32* or CA ratings are. This is the same as the deka etx-14. 75 bucks shipped from battery mart

BJhines' s30 is hands down my favorite Z all around. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/bjhines/V8%20240Z%20project/bodywork/paint/rearangle.jpg

1st Saturday of every month so not this coming weekend but the next. Held at classic BMW at Dallas tollway and springcreek. There have been a couple of z's showing up, and everything from old bentley's, austin healey 3000's and jag e-types to the new lambo aventador. Almost always a great show. 8am-11 is usually the meat of it.

I chose to go carb'd v8. I chose this for the cost and because for a VERY long time I wanted a carb'd v8 car, and for a long time a v8 datsun. Now that I am almost done with the swap, I probably should have gone ls 5.3 to start with, but I was trying to keep initial costs down. I do know that I wouldn't have it any other way than v8 though. It just looks like it belongs in the bay.

Right, which one is TCC? Maybe you can take the stats course there and transfer the credit to UTA. Or maybe look into taking it elsewhere like UTD. There are various options. I have had some REALLY rough courses in the past and the professor CAN and DOES make all the difference in the world sometimes. If she isn't into it, it can totally kill your learning and the class. I wouldn't necessarily think about changing yet. I would seriously consider dropping the class though. I used to think dropping a class meant you were giving up or quitting. I havelearned that is not the case. Sometimes you just have to fall back, regroup, and attack again at a later date.

Looking good. You've been making progress WAY faster than my v8 swap is going. Going to bring it out to cars and coffee soon?

Yeah, I recently I have been thinking "you know I would really like a zx turbo next". Now I know I do. Better start buttering up the wife.

Geez, welding your nets inside the legs much have hurt like a B**ch. I wouldn't suggest that to anyone. Sorry couldn't resist.

Thank you for clarifying that for me.

I think they splice to the starter wire so that the fuel pump works during startup. In the way the manual has it wired, with the fuel pump going strictly to the pressure switch, theoretically you could have to little oil pressure on initial start and the fuel pump would not supply fuel. With the pump tied into the starter solenoid then ignition is giving power to pump until sufficient oil pressure is achieved to activate switch. I THINK this is explained in the text somewhere, but I could be wrong.

First of all, as a good rule of thumb, try to give as much info about your swap as possible when asking questions like this. To help you sufficiently with your wiring problems it will help to know the year of your 240z, if you are using the stock fuel pump or an aftermarket electric fuel pump.