clarkspeed

I don't know what a perfect sway bar is. But I suppose it would have the correct spring rate to balance your car to near neutral handling in combination with your rear bar, springs and roll center heights.

My preferred approach, similar to above, is remove both the block and valve. Install a metric to 3/16 adapter at master. Run pre-cut 3/16 line from master to a 3/16 tee, then to each of the short lines left in front with another adapter. MC rear gets adapter, 3/16 tube to New prop valve in cockpit, then 3/16 tube to another adapter at the rear tee. Measure carefully, get a cheap tubing bender, and make it all look nice!

Bore it .120 over and drop in 280 pistons.

You are awesome! Did I already say that in an earlier post?

Glad it worked for you.

We typically don't specify a hip for anything unless a cut up shows more internal porosity than we can live with. Again, cost driven. Sacrificing a casting for EDM slicing is really the only way to know what you have.

HIPing is great for microporosity but does add cost. Repair welds are easier too. But it is limited to internal defects. Anything with a leak path to the surface will not be affected.

I uploaded a simple roll center calculator for a S30 in the uploads section. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/34-s30-rc-calculator/ I developed it because I like to set up my suspensions using the control arm angles. Fast and easy. If you need more info on what a RC is or does, there is large amount of info on the web. There is also plenty of debate on this forum on where you should set the RC and I wish I could tell you the best place. But when suspension tuning everything is a compromise and "best" is usually a combination of things, depends on your goals, and will change from car to car.

Might as well start racing

Timesert or kleensert

That would be cool. As soon as we finish this car, I will be back to work on my tube frame car. Probably need a year to complete it.

VIR is on the bucket list. Hope to get there someday. So far, Road Atlanta is as far morth as we travel. It is an 8 hour tow. Plus I hate spending more on tow gas for a weekend than race gas.

As one of our many projects, FHPTom and I are currently restoring a 72' 240Z. It served as an ITS car in the San Francisco region I believe since the 90's. We rescued it from becoming a chopped up wide body conversion. https://www.facebook.com/S30-Motorsports-262575520591481/?fref=hovercard We have been documenting the build on our S30 Motorsports Facebook page. We intend to essentially restore the car to full race form and also convert to a tribute vintage CP car. Car is being built to SVRA rules which are nationally accepted and we are upgrading or replacing everything related to safety and reliability. It has a fresh 2.4L, close ratio 5 speed, and a locked 3.9 rear. Current plan is to race it, sort it, then sell it with an extensive spares package we have collected. Clark

Mistake on previous post. I just saw your mild race build comment. Depending on compression and desired RPM range, that cam can work well.

No, thats not what I meant. Adding more than 500 lift AFTER porting is marginal increase. My point is .500 lift is a lot of lift. Duration is another matter and I would never run 300 on the street. That is just my opionion and you can get many others. I hate over cammed engines.

I agree. I tried to explain this recently to someone offline after the Hybrid community had recommended cams for him. Unless you are flow bench porting, it is just not there. And when you are flow bench porting, its still only marginal gain for NA street engines.

Interesting solution. I thought about trying something similar numerous times but never did. The firewall definitely flexes a lot. Especially if you have removed the booster. I had a doubler plate on my last car but it only stiffened maybe 50%.

Correction, I am using Genesis aluminum pillow blocks from Hoerr Racing. With aluminum arms and 3/8 rod ends. Very lightweight package but I run less than 150 lb/in stiffness.

I have seen a number of these on S30's and recently purchased one for the car I am building. Selection involves knowing the spring rate you desire. You can calculate the thickness you need based on bar length and arm length. Rule of thumb is use steel arms for heavier rates. You will need bent arms or bend them yourself. I have seen them mounted using flange mount bearings through the engine bay, fenderwells, and frame rails. I chose an aluminum bearing block I think I got from Pegasus.

Another great product from Dave! Solves a problem AND saves weight.

Never heard of one breaking.

I tap mine and put Allen head NPT plugs in. 3/8 or 1/4 can't remember. Be careful with the front one, it can block an oil gallery and you may need to grind it flush.

Porting manifold means matching to larger TB in my previous post. I prefer not to touch the cam unless I raise compression, just personal preference for streetability and leaving the stock efi alone. Although I will say we got 200hp at wheels with 9:1 compression, huge cam, and aftermarket efi. Just not much fun to drive on street.

Above, with bigger TB and ported manifold ahead of cam work. I would rank the bowl work next, then mild cam, then more compression. Best to combine cam/compression/megasquirt in one project.