clarkspeed

We had to rebuild the rear quarter panels on the current car so they might have a little flare in them but much less than a zg. Car has 15x7 with 0 offset wheels, 225/50 tires, and they just barely fit without rubbing. Actual total spacing is 0.337 for rotor and 0.5 for wheel spacer sitting on top = 0.837" on each side. We did fit checks with big nuts and washers on the wheel studs and lowering the coil over springs to make sure everything would fit, and it was close. Here are some pics without the wheel spacer. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150831472@N06/shares/9k9HXv

I miss measured the center of the car in the rear about 4" when building the frame holding fixture. (measure twice, weld once!). So I couldn't quite get the side to side cg exact. If you look close, there is a 4 cylinder crank and some steel ty-wrapped to the passenger door cage. Otherwise if would have worked perfect. I may re-do the fixture later.

After looking at all the variations on the net, I decided to go my own route. Mostly 2 and 2.5" square tubing. Acme thread adjusters to center the weight. Didn't want the greased pipe in pipe for rotation so sourced spindle pins, hubs, bearings, and 8" wheels from etrailer for about $100. I think I have about $250 in it total and the thing practically paid for itself the first time I used it. I can't believe I actually considered trying to work underneath this thing. It also rolls around on the floor easy. As you can see, the car does not weigh over 1/2 ton, but I could upgrade it to handle more weight if needed with a different wheel/beam set up. https://www.facebook.com/262575520591481/photos/pcb.803277733187921/803277706521257/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/262575520591481/videos/801158750066486/

That rotisserie is not so hot. Check out my one hand check out spin last week for the rotisserie I designed/built in our shop. https://www.facebook.com/262575520591481/videos/801158750066486/ (I know it is not as nice as theirs, but humor me)

I have been drawing my own and getting them waterjet cut in aluminum.

A common problem. A good seal around the hatch is usually enough to correct if exhaust exits at bumper. I know some racers that have an exit under the car just past driver, but don't know their struggles. On my last car I ran oval exhaust tubing to cross over and exit on passenger side in front of rear wheel. Never smelled exhaust when driving, ever.. But did wear an ear plug in right ear.

I have a super cheap setup for the rear using front calipers and Saab rotors. I developed for race car we are running now. Disadvantage is wheel spaces out about 3/4" on each side. If you can handle that PM me.

Nice use of plywood! Btw, 2:04 is not to shabby for first time to VIR. Based on what I have seen on this forum, you are definetly ready for Pikes Peak.

Wow, that is a really long open fast course. Glad you are ok, cars can be rebuilt.

Or just buy them from Nismo?

Taylor Race Eng can probably also hook you up.

Doesnt NISMO still offer bearings?

I don't know what a perfect sway bar is. But I suppose it would have the correct spring rate to balance your car to near neutral handling in combination with your rear bar, springs and roll center heights.

My preferred approach, similar to above, is remove both the block and valve. Install a metric to 3/16 adapter at master. Run pre-cut 3/16 line from master to a 3/16 tee, then to each of the short lines left in front with another adapter. MC rear gets adapter, 3/16 tube to New prop valve in cockpit, then 3/16 tube to another adapter at the rear tee. Measure carefully, get a cheap tubing bender, and make it all look nice!

Bore it .120 over and drop in 280 pistons.

You are awesome! Did I already say that in an earlier post?

Glad it worked for you.

We typically don't specify a hip for anything unless a cut up shows more internal porosity than we can live with. Again, cost driven. Sacrificing a casting for EDM slicing is really the only way to know what you have.

HIPing is great for microporosity but does add cost. Repair welds are easier too. But it is limited to internal defects. Anything with a leak path to the surface will not be affected.

I uploaded a simple roll center calculator for a S30 in the uploads section. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/34-s30-rc-calculator/ I developed it because I like to set up my suspensions using the control arm angles. Fast and easy. If you need more info on what a RC is or does, there is large amount of info on the web. There is also plenty of debate on this forum on where you should set the RC and I wish I could tell you the best place. But when suspension tuning everything is a compromise and "best" is usually a combination of things, depends on your goals, and will change from car to car.

Might as well start racing

Timesert or kleensert

That would be cool. As soon as we finish this car, I will be back to work on my tube frame car. Probably need a year to complete it.

VIR is on the bucket list. Hope to get there someday. So far, Road Atlanta is as far morth as we travel. It is an 8 hour tow. Plus I hate spending more on tow gas for a weekend than race gas.