SleeperZ

If all you want is 250 hp, why go to the trouble of building a stroker motor? You can turbo the stock N42/N47 engine (F54 is in '81 and later ZXs only) and get 250 hp EASY, with a stock turbo, an intercooler and the stock ECU and fuel system from a ZX turbo.

I think that drifting is a perfect example of drifting not being "racing". Notice he blows away the cars in the straight away, but the cars he pass gain tons of ground through the corners. If he didn't waste so much time rotating the car back and forth, he turn some hellacious lap times. Then again, he probably wouldn't have wasted the car either.

Yes, from what I read of other's experiences with T04 turbos, 0.96 A/R is too large for anything but the wildest drag motor, using N2O. On the other hand, the compressor is way too SMALL! A T04 S trim is a tiny thing, the smallest compressor for the series, and would have a hard time making even 300hp. http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/fig6.html

Someone in the Denver area said there were two locally, and posted a scanned picture of the sticker... http://members.wcox.com/bedlam/evosticker.jpg Can you say OUCH!

That is the exact amount. Works guuuud.

Sounds like it should work if you can adapt 3/8" T to a 5/16" fuel injector hose. I spent less than $50 on my fuel rail - 2 feet of stock from AZMarine, 6 1/8" NPT barbs, 2 3/8" NPT fittings for the ends. I just drilled and tapped the ends and 6 injector barbs - voila! Custom fuel rail. Are you sure your old fuel rail was not up to the job? A restrictive rail will not lose fuel pressure, it will gain fuel pressure, as in you can't regulate it well. If you were losing pressure, check your fuel pump.

Ok, you got me there. I missed that SDS info - it sounded like stock EFI to me. The E31 head will need a mod to accomodate the Nissan FI, which is what it sounded like what he wants to do. Otherwise the stuff will bolt on. But high compression isn't the best option for turbo, especially if it has a hot N/A cam. The turbo pistons are stronger, the full story is hidden in the search functions, yada, yada, yada.

Doesn't seem to me it's nay-saying. Rather more practical options I think.... It's so much cheaper/easier to drop in a fuel injected L28ET. Of course L24s have been turbocharged, but the FI is so much easier to manage and tune, and all the FI components came from the later model engines.

I think you mean inches of Hg' date=' Yo 10" is low, but that's what my engine ran with an aftermarket turbo cam (the Schneider 270/280).[/quote'] I guess I just reading what my Autometer boost gauge say. I have an Autometer gauge too. If you look closely, the numbers below 0 are designated as inHg, and the numbers above are designated as psi.

If the throat is bigger, and I believe it is, this could be a good way to run large injectors with a factory Z31 computer. You can tune it with fuel pressure. A more elegant solution than what I'm doing, which is hacking up a perfectly good Z31 MAF, and installing it in a big intake pipe (3-1/2").

I think you mean inches of Hg, Yo 10" is low, but that's what my engine ran with an aftermarket turbo cam (the Schneider 270/280).

Hmmm, good question. That could be a good alternative for a stock Z31 ECU as well, upgrade injectors, bigger MAF and tweek a/f with fuel pressure....

Keep trying to get good readings on your injectors - they will fail open and not work, you will not see them only partially open to what you were reading. The high readings are most likely to be measurement error, caused by bad connections. Clean up the connections and verify the resistance through the harness. The AFM is grounded through the cable. A wire in the harness will then connect to the chassis at the intake manifold, I believe. Good luck.

That all depends on how far you want to go and how much of the Z31 stuff you have. I fully wired a Z31 ECU into my 280ZXT harness, after a long study of the wiring diagrams. I am using the Z31 ignition, and I rewired my fuel pump and relay to be properly controlled by the ECU. Some folks have not gone so far, and get good results without much rewiring. If you have no heart for wiring, don't do it. I know a local guy, he posts here occasionally, who has tried and failed. But several folks have been successful. But it NOT plug and play.

That is a beautiful car. Nice find! Are you sure you want to convert to a solid rear axle? For something that is 100% street, no strip, that is a rather radical conversion. I would think running street tires, you'd get as much grip with the IRS. Do you think you can hook up on the street enough to warrant the solid axle? Just asking...good luck with your project.

Oh what is the world coming to? Street racing with trucks.....my, my.

Tire width is not the governing factor in grip. Tire compound is. The Z nuts I know that regularly run around the road course usually use 205 or 225 width on all 4 corners. The tires they use are sticky - BFG R1 or Toyo Proxes. A 205 width R1 will rule over any street compound no matter what the width. If you go too wide you may lose traction because the tire compound will not heat to it's optimal temperature. There is an optimal width for whatever tire compund you decide to use, depending on the weight of your car, and the type of racing you do. Of course, this is MO.

I'm pretty sure the Z31 MAFs are all the same. You don't HAVE to use a turbo ECU, but the ignition curve should be more suited to a forced induction setup. I use a turbo ECU, I've heard of others using the N/A ECU just because they are more common.

You should know better than ask that question on this board! If you've looked and read around you can see everyone has at least 2 opinions on that subject.

Yes, I know. I used FUEL line that was rated for vacuum, so it won't collapse when the pump sucks fuel through it. It is common auto parts store fuel line.

If the flow rating is at 37psi, they won't flow as much as stock (269cc/min). Chances are they are rated at 3bar instead of 2.5bar, so they will flow even less. 24lb/hour is about 252cc/min. No way are you going to get 335 hp out of six of these. And yes, they are probably high impedence also; a stock Nissan ECU may have trouble holding them open.

The big line (inlet to the pump) is not pressurized. I just used regular fuel/vacuum line.

You can buy one from Summit. First you need to know what your requirements are. You need to know how you are going to plumb it, so you can make sure it has the right fittings. You need to know what fuel pressure you will be using to make sure it can be adjusted to the setting you need. It should also be matched to the pump for flow rating at your fuel pressure. Personally I could only find one FPR that met all of my requirements. I ended up buying an AEM universal FPR (25-302), because I could adjust the fuel pressure between 20 and 80 psi (I needed to use it at 20 psi until I make my MAF mods - bigger injectors and Z31 ECU don't get along). I also needed it to regulate pressure for any given pump. I am using a Bosch pump right now, a small one, but I may upgrade to 2 pumps in parallel. It also had hardware available to plumb it into hose barbs (with a little work) because I am still using stock fuel lines. So anyway, if you are just running stock fuel pressure and stock injectors, just get a FPR that fits, and adjust it to 37psi.

I believe it will bolt in. It better, I don't have a welder.

You can use the stock FPR if you want, but not many do. You must have an older FPR, the stock one on my turbo fuel rail had only one inlet. It's easier to get an aftermarket one and mount it to the right inner fender with the supplied mounting brackets. Otherwise you have to fabricate one.