olie05

The reserve is not met. The seller could simply be testing the waters with no intention of actually selling the vehicle.

sounds/looks like a rebore is in order.

Why? I don't see the advantage, especially if you've been trained on a standard qwerty all your life. please explain your reason...

needs a drop

Is that the taurus 2 speed fan and shroud? It looks to me that you could have gotten away with a flatter style 14" fan. (you know... the kind held on by zipties?)

This reminds me of the first time I pulled the engine out of my car. I left the drive shaft connected because I knew it would simply slide out of the transmission if I pulled the engine and transmission together. What I didn't know was how difficult it would be to try to slide the driveshaft into the transmission as the engine/transmission combo was comming down into place. (with the driveshaft bolted to the diff) i was such a n00b.

IME 9/16 works well in place of a 14mm

I would hardly call the speed 12 old school, and that picture certainly doesn't qualify as anything old school looking at all.

so was this a r200 to r180 conversion?

I got the rack out and the new one in. All I had to do was jack the engine up way more than I was doing before. My inner tie rods were SHOT. I also replaced the rack bushings with polyurethane ones and regreased everything down there. good as new

I would take the crank to a machine shop and have it turned down a size, to ensure proper clearances. The process that ezzzzzzz mentioned seems like it will work, but it also sounds like a headache.

this is a 77 280z. I am going to go out there in a few minutes and try to wiggle it out. I suppose some of this could be related to me having old engine mounts because the steering rack is very close to the oil pan.

I was talking with someone earlier about different engines and somehow the topic of a big cam on a fuel injected car came up. He insisted that overlap is not so important on fuel injected engines, because they don't need the added intake velocity to suck fuel out of the carburetor. I was under the impression that it was always better to move air through the engine, and the more air the better. could someone please clear this up? I'm curious now. -Oliver

Is removing the steering rack supposed to be this hard? The factory service manual made no mention of removing anything except for the rack, in the process of removing the rack. Reading the forums I have found that in some cases it is necessary to lift the engine. So far I have lifted the passenger's side of the engine, removed the steering column (PITA), removed the driver's side sway bar mounting points, and I still havent been able to wiggle the rack out!!! I'd like to hear how any one has done it. (with the engine in.) -Oliver

lol you beat me to it bschiltz. thats really cool!

We need more pics!!! lookin' good, by the way.

when you are done with the ktm motor... can I have it to put in our FSAE car?

Maybe this was some sort of supercharger project? Interesting concept indeed.

Looks strong. Looks close enough to the line of a straight STB to be effective, although thats a matter for debate. Just out of curiousity... Did you have a tubing notcher at your disposal, or did you use a grinder?

mmmm 280zx g-nose

I don't know the pattern on the Z31 chopper wheel but I know on3go had some problems with his z31 chopper wheel when he was switching over to MS from SDS. I ended up selling him my 83 turbo dizzy and that got the thing running. Opinions... I would say go the route most traveled. That includes MS I (although I have had a smooth experience tuning and helping setup a MS II powered Z) PCB v3.0 and a relay board to help you rip out all the old wiring. Use the 83 turbo dizzy, and run ignition through an MSD, High current coil driver (VB921) or gm hei module. Any of those choices will be faster than seting up any COP or Waste spark system. Unless, of course, you're up for the challenge of seting up a complicated ignition system. If you have already attempted swapping the 300zx ecu into your car, then you have at least had a crash course in setting up ECU's. That should be more than enough experience (along with all the help you can get here) to setup your Megasquirt. GL -Oliver

Make sure the white wire of the MSD is connected to FIDLE on the relay board, and make sure you have a wire in your cable from MS to relay board for FIDLE. I'm assuming you have a v2.2 board since you say you are using FIDLE as the ignition output... so you should have Spark Inverted = YES in Spark Settings and Dwell Duty to Fix - 50%

Did the timeserts come out easily?

i can vouch for the speediness of rockauto.com 's shipping.