Mayolives

If I remember correctly, Mark's custom seat was made by Butler and it was made to fit his tall body and it's very substantial and very well built. If you can spare the mula, a custom seat is the way to go.

I had a 396/375 66 Chevelle with a similar, heart pounding outcome. I remember my dad's saucer sized eyeballs from his passenger seat. Scary and dangerous games we play and some without protection. Fortunately, I've not heard stories of this happening with a bell housing behind an L6 Datsun but I guess it could happen even at 7K RPM.

As stated above by slowrusty, you probably have a leak either in the new IC or it's plumbing. A properly sized IC is the appropriate way to go, but I seriously doubt an over sized one would cause the condition you have described. Do some reading and you will learn how a basic turbo system works. The Garrett website has some very good information that you should read. Here is the link to it. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/faqs.html

I have had Ultra-shield's in my car since it was built, a few years ago. My only real complaint is the quality of the seat covering. The material on the top portion of the sides of the seats, became frayed, very soon after we started to use them. There are better constructed seats to be had and they cost a lot more than the Ultrashield, but for the price, I'm still very satisfied with the seat itself, especially now that I added head supports.

Roddy's user name is TitaniumZ. A PM to him may enable one to get more information concerning when these spoilers will be ready to be shipped.

The second picture resembles the look of bondo with rust starting to penetrate the surface. It's really tough to determine exactly what it is without being able to look at it in person. From what we can see, the bottom of the car looks very clean.

Holy turbo and BOV.......Both cars rock, but the z really hooks! Id like to see a 1/4 mile run.

I use mine based on sounds. Not vibrations. And have found that I can located the noise better by removing the long pointed piece on the end and then use the remaining open end of the stethoscope to move over the search area.

This is a really good read. After fooling with BOVs for a long time, I now have a much better understanding of how they opperate. Thanks!

I have an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope that I've used for years. It easily will pinpoint leaks and locate squeaks from pulleys and belts and such.

Man.........Rock on super cuda and the Italian red flash. My cahonies would also have been running short at 200 mph plus. On a side note about going fast: JT1 and I were talking about a new found respect we had for the Nascar guys. We both put our "ragaty" S30 cars to the test at 150 hph or so for short bursts and think we have accomplished something. Those Nascar guys surpass us, for hours at time, at over 200 mph, weekend after weekend. I really don't watch much Nascar stuff, but I sure respect their driving ability.

The technical responses above do apply to why the rods are in demand. The Datsun rods are a relatively cheep choice if you can find them compared to having a set of custom rods made or purchasing a set of Kameari rods at about $2200.00 a set.

TonyD, This my not be politically correct but you are cracking me up and I'm laughing out loud in the early AM. But how bout the turbo kit? It looks like it's not a bad price for a cheepy get going in the right direction deal?

[quote=DrSideways Then I use the plumb bobs to set the strings beside the wheels from the new marks. It takes time, but I get good results. Yours may vary. It is just easier for me to set this and ride height along with weighing all in the same day. Alan, I may be splitting hairs here but should I do the corner weights first, then adjust the ride height like JohnC recommended, and then proceed with the alignment details? Would the corner weights change significantly by realigning the car? What type of laser device would be better to use? A side note on splitting hairs: I was in the G Force shop in PA, with my gear box and was told to check the input shaft run out in relation to the bell housing to be sure it was centered property. ( I had previously not installed the bushing that should be used on one of the bell housing bolts) I ask Bubba what was an executable run out number and he looked at me as if to say, "you are a dumb ass" and then said "as little as possible". When is good, good enough and when do you reach the point of diminishing returns.

John, (or others) Could you fill us in on thrust angle and the importance of it? How does thrust angle relate to toe? I realize that the floor surface being used needs to be level and the laser level could be used for that purpose. How else is the laser level being used? Do you use a laser that provides lines that would be used like the strings would be used to measure toe?

For those of you who do you own alignment and set up, what tools are you using? I have a Longacre caster camber tool that attaches to the front wheel or hub and then I use a plumb bob to find the center of the car. From that center line, I pull measurements to each side and then mark tape placed on my floor for reference. Mark posted that he used a laser pointer to help with his set up. What type of laser devices are being used? How are they being used? I would like for this post to evolve into a "how to better and easier do your own alignment and set up". I know there are some smart people at Hybrid Z who have been there and done that and I would like to hear from them.

I'd buy it now but there are too many zeros in the price and dust where my stack used to be. LOL

Nice car! The video gives me the "I want one to daily drive" feelings. Long live the z car.

QUOTE: "I am going more for function over form." What am I missing here? If you are stripping it, i.e.; removing it, why would you put the undercoat back on the car? If you are repairing rust or doing some kind of body work at the wheel well area, I would re undercoat it with the rattle can stuff from an auto parts store. If, on the other hand, you are removing it to lighten your can, repainting will do the job.

I agree with Mark. This seller is good to do business with and you can't go wrong with the suede wheel. I purchased a Sparco adapter and liked it better that the less expensive other ones offered due to the Sparco piece being tightly splined while many of the others are 5 sided and feel loose and have play in them when installed.

My 03 Dodge 2wd is a dully and has an auto transmission. If I drive very conservatively at our just above posted speed limits on the interstate, I can get about 20 mpg. When running at 75 mph the mileage drops to about 16 mpg and when towing my 24 foot, V nose enclosed trailer with z car inside, the mileage drops by about 5 mpg. I have about 100K on the clock and with the exception of a minor transmission problem, the truck has been great. I love my diesel!

This is an intriguing thread. All the ingretients are present. A new track car build. Help from your father who raced. Topped off by trying to locate the original car your dad owned. Please keep us up to date!

Yes, the circlips stay in the differential. I needed to install them after the Quaife people forgot. I gently and gingerly slid them in place with a long screwdriver. It needs to be done with a "watchmaker's" precision.

Looks like you really got your money's worth! I would jump on that deal.

Alan, I had to cancel my trip to VIR due to a transmission problem with my truck. (speed sensor) Apparently it rained up there for most of the day so I really didn't miss much. I hope to take the car over to CMP later this month and test the new setup.