Mayolives

Bank Of America fuc--- me over in a business deal some years ago. At the time I was younger and dumber and didn't have the wherewithal to litigate so I decided to suck it up and live with the screwing they gave me. I haven't done any business with them since. They are on the top of my perpetual ♥♥♥♥ list.

Note that in both pictures above of Yanagida and Suzuki, the rear of the hood is not in the full down, closed position. I would assume both teams were trying to reduce uplift and help keep the engine bay temps down.

Tech3R with all the "bells" ............We did not program temperature based (warm-up) enrichments when tuning the new system. Engine normally starts easily but will not idle properly without adding a little throttle for a few minutes. Hot starting usually has no issues and always idles good after warm-up.

John, Having no experience whatsoever with the 335 R6 tire, I can only base this response on my seat of the pants feelings that "wider is normally better" when it comes to road racing our old Dutsuns. Knowing that your setup has gobs of HP and torque, would lead me to believe that you would benefit from the taller gear ratio provided by the larger diameter tire/wheel combination and the added traction of more rubber on the ground. Sure, the wider tire would create more drag but that shouldn't be a big problem for you. We have discussed ways to lower the rear end our cars by raising the mounting points of the differential. Now would be a good time to consider making these changes to the rear. Logic would dictate that you would improve lap times by being faster through the middle and getting off the corners. I believe more tire would accomplish this for you. Also, I would agree with you about Hoosier making the wide boys for a long time to come but I have also read about how short lived these fat boys are. Coast is always a factor for me. And John, I would NEVER laugh at you only with you. You crack me up and have provided many good moments. You may take this post with a grain of salt because I rarely know which way to turn.

John and Mark.........After carefully reading all this......I really can't add anything intelligent, so I'll just continue to laugh out loud...all by my self.

I used the small pc680 (??) in a race car application. The first two were purchased on Ebay and lasted about one year. The third and currant one came from a local dealer at a higher cost with warranty and, with fingers crossed, is several months old and still going strong. The dealer told me they are prone to failure in higher vibration situations so I added more soft stuff to the mount. The jury is still out!

I had a Featherlite model 3111. It is one of the best open alum. trailers made. Light weight, well built, long ramps for smooth loading and pulled easily. Also, they hold their valve. I used mine for two years and sold it for almost what I paid for it. If I was in the market for another open trailer, this would be my choice.(http://www.fthr.com/trailerimages/3111/3111-curbside)

This is an update on my 82 zxt auto climate control issues. The air conditioning system would work spastically and blow cold air but I had no heat. When I moved the control to the heat side, the blower fan would not operate. So, I finally bit the bullet and removed the dash. Not really a fun job but a few hours of careful and tedious work does the trick. This car has 70k original miles on the clock and has been garaged for most of it's life so I wasn't suppressed to find all the vacuum lines really good, soft condition and I couldn't detect any vacuum leaks whatsoever. Then I disconnected and reconnected all electrical connectors and manually worked all the vacuum controls and levers to make sure they were operating freely. After restarting the engine and warming it up, I now have both heat and air conditioning. I wish all repairs went this smoothly. Now, if it would only put itself back together.

quote:"main question is i was told by a local tire company if i use a 1/4 spacer and of course longer studs i will destroy the wheel bearings and perhaps loose a tire while driving down the road ." Your local tire person is full of it....quarter inch spacers with longer studs will not damage your wheel barings and will work fine.

Bov?

I'm using ArizonaZCar's race brakes with Wilwood master cylinders and pedals without a booster. The pedal is very firm and makes contact near the "top". It does not have the normal pedal travel you may be accustomed to in the OEM setup. The entire system works very great!

Does anyone have a spare ticket for the Performance Racing Industry Trad Show being held in Orlando FL December 6-8? Please pm me mayolives@aol.com.

Chino240z.............Man that's a nice looking car. Can you post more pictures for us?

Dan... Prayers are in the works and my fingers are crossed for you and yours. Good luck

I have a Fidanza alum. 244mm flywheel in my turbo track car (L28) and also in my z32TT. Both cars are highly modded, make gobs of power, will idle without problems and are smooth and "streetable" if I wanted them to be driven that way. Believe it or not!

Yes...The hatch was open for that picture. However, I now have a rear wing installed which does create some seriour downforce.

Mom'sz............Looks like the smart camber tool could interfere with the fender or flares on our cars.

Lsd? What diff fluid are you using?

The "hanging" idea is a new one for me and I'll have to give it some thought. Now, when I think about the half up and half down idea from the infinite wisdom bank of Titanium Z, I don't thank that will work. But really, can a crank bend and distort if it was stored lying down, and not in a block? Really???

Fact or Fiction??? Some say the best way to store an L6 crank shaft is standing on it's end, not lying down, horizontally. What do you think?

Katman........Could this be so??? Is Sunbelt no longer in business?? Please tell us more.

I emailed STP and received the following "vague" information concerning the level of ZDDP in their add additives. "They are safe to use with all oils. The viscosity rating of the blue bottle is twice as high is the rating in the red bottle. Both products have a ZDDP level that is four times the amount of what used to be in the motor oil".

I contacted Red Line about the "Zinc" sublect and the responded as follows. --------------------------------------------------- Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, the Race Oils have very high levels of zinc, 2400 ppm and more importantly phosphorus 2500 ppm. The Race Oils don't have the detergents and other additives needed for street use and reasonable drain periods. For performance engines used on the street or combination track and street use the street motor oils would be recommended. The zinc level in the street oil is 1230 ppm and the phosphorus is 1100 ppm, sufficient for good flat tappet cam protection, plus containing a complete detergent additive package for an extended drain interval. The phosphorus and sulphur are the additives that provide the anti-wear protection for highly loaded flat tappet camshafts rather than the zinc. Regards, Dave Red Line Oil