nismopick

Age: 26 Car: 81 280ZXT Infractions: 3 speeding tickets since May 05. Location: SLC, UT Provider: USAA Coverage: Liability Cost $/month: $25/mo I have 3 other cars on my policy, so I also get multi-car discounts.

NGK's only brah!

Most people run the in & out through the left side of the radiator suppot by the headlight. This is my IC setup: Some people also cut a hole in the rad support by the canister & run a pipe over the fan. There's lots of pics out there.... feel free to SEARCH

GOOGLE can be your best friend... if you let it. http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/TurboMaps/L28ET%20Engine%20Air%20Flow%20and%20Turbo%20Compressor%20Maps.htm http://moreboost.org/turbos.htm HybridZ's SEARCH works too http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=1484&d=1161060694 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99020&highlight=turbo+specs http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89164&highlight=turbo+specs

I just sent you an ebay message "Good to know! I'll spread the word not to buy from them." Post that on the item page so people can see.

Hopefully everyone knows about the huge sticky "HOW TO" thread about the Z31 ecu swap????? It's been around here for a long time: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250 That thread explains most everything. Anyway... it's deffinately worth it on the 280zxt if you're on a budget. I did my swap this last summer & also did WreckedJ30's this last weekend. My total for the swap was $30... that's why I did it. If you bought all the parts from the junk yard / ebay: -$30 to $80 for the Z31T ecu (use the 84-86T ecu) -$10 to $30 for the Z31 MAF -$0 to $10 for the distributor chopper wheel -$0 to $10 for the ecu plugs & a couple inches of attached wires.

Let's compare: Supra MK3 injector: 280ZX injector (2nd from left): Looks as tho the stock manifold o-rings & holders would fit just right.

Dayamn! It's still $2.40/gal for 85 here in SLC, Utah.... $2.60 for 91. sonsabeetches!

Craigslist my friend, Craigslist: http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/205574750.html

That second pull deffinately wasn't "raping" the Z32.... It's all those rice-rocket stickers that makes the Sat-Sat so fast.

There's tons of threads on here about choosing the right intercooler & how to hook it all up. Feel free to use the SEARCH to find your answer. Like thus: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=607583 or even better... this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=607585

Boost should be steady if the throttle is steady. Sounds like your wastegate might have some issues. Are you using a manual boost controller?

Doh! That's the storm we had Monday/Tuesday here in SLC... looks like you got it worse!

Why did you run ecu pin 34 to pin 36??? According to my ecu schematics: 36 is a ground.

Your MAF wiring is fine... but the coil wiring seems a bit wierd. -I installed a pin to ECU slot 3... turns out you don't need it. I have mine disconnected. -New ECU pin 12... runs to MAF... connected? -New ECU pin 34... run to + ignition source. I ran mine to the stock fuel pump controller black w/ white stripe wire. -Did you swap pin 16 & 108 for the air regulator & fuel pump relay? I think part of your problem is you are connecting pin 34 to the + coil... it's better to connect it to a different + source (makes trouble shooting easier).

Just reading thru your posts... it sounds like you DIDN'T follow the instructions very well. Tho the 88 na ecu is setup somewhat differently than the 84-86 turbo ecu (like in Afshin's sticky). There are 2 main reasons an engine won't start: -no fuel- -no spark- You've verified there is fuel getting to the combustion chamber? (are the sparkplugs wet w/ fuel?) Have you verified spark? (pull off a wire & set it near a ground when cranking... look for spark) If your battery is getting weak... hook up a battery charger. YAY!

That's not really the reason. Ever heard of a BOOST CONTROLLER? External wastegates are usually larger than internal, and can flow more exhaust.

For a faster car I would assume. And welcome to CLUB LSD. May you scare yourself silly going sideways around many corners!

If you are measuring the a/f ratio at an exact rpm... sure (if your multimeter is that precise). But if you want to use it INSTEAD of an a/f gauge, it won't be able to keep up w/ the changing signal.

12-15 psi is pretty high on an L28 w/ 8.6 CR. You going studs all around, & MLS headgasket?

I wasn't saying it was bad... just clarifying because some people don't understand which models have that hood.

79-81 was the first body style. 82-83 was the second body style. 81T's had the NACA turbo / 82-83 hood scoops. 81T's had the CAS at the crank pulley (82-83T's have the CAS in the distrib) 81T distrib is diff than the 82T-83T. $500 is a good price for a running 81T. Does it have the 15" snowflake rims?

I've never seen anyone do this on the N/A. The reason it's so easy on the turbo is because the 280zxt & all Z31's use the same ecu plugs. You just have to cut & solder several wires. You will need the entire Z31 n/a ecu wiring & run it to all the sensors for the N/A L28... or at least cut the Z31 ecu plugs & solder them onto the 280zx n/a ecu harness.... which is about 30 wires (fun!).... and don't forget all the wire tracing to match them to the Z31 ecu (more fun!). You WILL need the 82-83 L28ET distributor w/ the VG30 CAS "chopper wheel" as ALL Z31 ecu's use that optical pickup. I think the reason no one has done this for the 280zx n/a is because it would be too time consuming, for little benefit. If you're going to spend all that time rewiring, go megasquirt. The reason I did the Z31T ecu swap, is because it was very simple... cut n splice a couple wires & pop in the new ecu... much less time n money than swapping to Megasquirt, but with less benefit.

Grammer?

Dayamn! All ya suckahs in the 12/13 sec! I'm also at 5K feet altitude... Tho I don't know if that makes a whole second difference w/ forced induction???