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nismopick

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Everything posted by nismopick

  1. nismopick
    LD "diesel" crank is for a stroker (3L / 3.1L) motor build. Are you building a stroker? There's tons of info on the web about the L28E and stroker builds. Here's a few from a fast google search for you: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=269224
  2. nismopick
    I've seen that car before.... somewhere on my intraweb adventures... $1700 is a good deal.
  3. nismopick
    This is the sound of a mild rod knock on an L28ET:
  4. nismopick
    pft... $100 New York steak FTW!
  5. nismopick
    There's always the search feature on this forum... I don't think it's ever failed. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139967&highlight=lug+conversion http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137562&highlight=lug+conversion
  6. nismopick
    The emergency relief valve & blow off valve serve two diff purposes: Relief valve opens when stock boost levels rise above ~8psi (preventing over-boosting) if the wastegate fails. Technically you don't need it if you trust that your wastegate will always work. BOV releases excess boost pressure once the TB snaps closed. So... no, you don't "need" the relief valve, and yes you should use a bov.
  7. nismopick
    Ah yes... because your car is an 80 Federal (page 50 in Haynes). Yes, you should be able to remove it as long as you cap all hoses & lines.
  8. nismopick
    That was one hard post to understand. Maybe try spell check next time? Are you talking about the auxiliary air regulator?
  9. nismopick
    Fuse (aka fusible) links. Pop the plastic covers off and you will probably see some melted wires. Did the + jumper cable whack the body ground anywhere? Did you hook the jumper cables up correctly?
  10. nismopick
    Okay... rephrase for simplicity's sake: Maybe the back carb is WAY out of tune... thus DUMPING TOO MUCH FUEL INTO THE CYLINDERS. Unless there was a huge Clunk! noise, and now the car barely cranks, I doubt the valves are bent (also quite hard to do with a chain driven cam). But what do I know...
  11. nismopick
    Have you sync'd the carbs? Start with the easy... no need to jump right to compression probs.
  12. nismopick
    Yes.
  13. nismopick
    See Step 17: It is possible the timing can go wrong if the crank angle sensor becomes misaligned. The CAS is located @ the front of the engine, alongside the crankshaft pulley. 81 turbo has a CAS on the crank pulley. The 82-83 CAS is in the distributor. Again... adjust timing like any other dizzy car.
  14. nismopick
    Weird... my Haynes manual has the specs on page 26. 20* +/- 3* @ 650-700 RPM. You adjust it just like any other car with a distributor. Loosen it, & adjust w/ timing gun. On the turbo model, you unplug the TPS while adjusting. The n/a model you disconnect the vac advance. EDIT... there is a VERY detailed step by step procedure on page 45.
  15. nismopick
    Settings are kinda specific to the welder, and the person doing the welding. I always test weld on some spare metal of the same thickness before actually welding on the real project. Then I can tune till it's perfect. It's hard to explain welding techniques... it's mainly something you have to practice doing. One big thing: flux core sucks compared to argon/CO2 shielded welding.
  16. nismopick
    I had to get mine from Nissan back in '99... $600/piece. Hopefully you can find someone making aftermarket ones now.
  17. nismopick
    And the turbo flange would make the turbo sit right where the intake manifold is. I imagine that pic is for the RB manifold...
  18. nismopick
    The intake manifold is a large unit. Could you narrow down WHERE on the intake "oil is bubbling" ? Front... back.... near the head... near the egr... near the throttle body... ya know....
  19. nismopick
    Yeah... I heard you guys got slammed down there more than we did... that's a rare thing!
  20. nismopick
    I've owned 4 S30's and 12 S130's.
  21. nismopick
    #1.... FOR THE LAST TIME GET A FREAKING HAYNES MANUAL OR DOWNLOAD THE FSM. All of your questions can be answered by flipping open the Haynes manual. The front seal is separate from the timing cover. #2... Go to the junkyard & get a pulley. Probably $15. http://www.car-parts.com
  22. nismopick
    Might want to search. There's already a HUGE tail light thread.
  23. nismopick
    N/A's do not have a CAS. Check your timing, and TPS & TPS connector. When did this problem start? Did anything happen to make it start? More info = quicker fix.
  24. nismopick
    You think a 240sx or Skyline clutch will be cheaper than a stock dinky 280z clutch? The L28 clutch costs $100-$120 at Autozone / Napa / Checker / Kragen / Pepboys.... doubt you could get a "skyline" or "240sx" (RB / KA / SR) clutch for under $150.
  25. nismopick
    Water pump? We really REALLY need to get you up to speed on the technical terms (nomenclature) of car parts. FYI... Get yourself a Haynes Manual or FSM freaking asap.
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