DaleMX

Man, that's great news and one less thing to worry about!

That looks good Mike. A thin layer of foam might help keep the noise down. I ran mine without the dash for a week and noticed a huge improvement when I put the dash back in.

Trick flow heads for LS1's got tested by TEA. Here's the thread. Brian is considered an expert on LS1 heads. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403969

That's talent, wonder if he is into martial art's?

I think bedliner is a little rough so it would be harder to keep clean.

My old one was really messy too, the old brake fluid had crystalized all over the inside of it. Autozone had the best deal in my area.

Yea, I got lucky on Ebay with mine. I got the LS1/T56 from a 99 firebird with 28,000 on it and paid a little less than 4000 with shipping. Getting a whole car is not necessary. I used aftermarket parts and Datsun parts. Speartech made the harness. JTR did the headers and radiator. Fan came from a Taurus. Ripped out most of the electrical system and re-wired it myself (that was stupid, should have gotten the painless lighting and relay kit). John’s cars supplied the mounts, the adapters for the Datsun senders and the A/C (not yet installed). I removed the power steering pump from the engine and re-routed the belt system. Got a cam , heads, LS6 intake, 30 lb. injectors, ported TB, and did a homemade air intake then tuned the computer using EFI live and ran magnaflow mufflers that dump just before the axle to scare away rice and act as a leaf blower for my driveway. At 900 rpm it really has a very noticeable lope to it. I cant go to the store without somebody approaching me and asking me about it. Then I get into a 20 minute conversation and sometimes forget what I went to the store for. This week has been dedicated to getting heat. The 28-year-old Datsun heater coil, valve, and control module were toast, along with all the open cell foam they used in the unit. I rebuilt the unit and hooked it up tonight and tested it. Oh joy, heat! Tomorrow the dash goes back in and I’m on the road for the winter. FWIW I am now in the process of fitting the LS1 with a 2003 Vette over the radiator air intake fitting and matching air filter to the Z. Looks like it will fit with some metal removal in front of the radiator and the hood has that clearance down the middle of it and that gives plenty of room for the fitting. The air filter box will fit in front of the radiator just fine. That will be really trick! I wish you the best if you decide to go this route! It’s not real hard, it just takes a lot of work, and a steady supply of money! Just don’t get caught up in the "while I’m at it syndrome". Mine is coming apart later for that type of detail and I’m glad I did it this way because I can see what really need’s to be done, and I have gotten very familiar with the car so that should make it a lot easier.

I've seen the bushings go bad, and I seen them bent out of shape from contact, but the temper would never be lost unless you heated it with a torch or parked over a pile of flaming coals.

I didn't do the book, and had very few problems. It's a real straight forward swap IMO. I'm not saying that the book isn't good, just not necessary if your a car guy.

Looks like processed video to me, look at the angle of the landing gear.

Peta, screaming like a little girl. Sound's about right.

I used some of their stuff last year on my arm rests. I noticed last week that it was wearing off in places.

I saw a piece of debris fall 2 mornings ago looking south. It was big, fast, close, bright, and no tail to it. Happened at 5:50 AM. Really woke me up.

That's a great idea! Keep us informed.

I chopped the connector off of mine when I installed it. When I took it off I noticed a bunch of green corrosion on the legs of the connector.

I'm running dual Magnaflows dumping just before the axle. They really take a bite out of the sound, but at full throttle they will blow your head off. The car drones really bad, but i suspect that routing the exhaust to the rear would solve that. There are some pics of the mufflers in the following thread. They tuck up real nice. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104539

Wow!

Eric, when you pull the booster from the firewall you can see the rod that is connected to the booster. Inside the booster there is a disk that is held in place by contact with that rod. If the rod get's pulled out then the reaction disk will fall out of place. That happened to mine and I didn't try to get it back into place because the booster was just in really bad shape. Another member here had posted a while back about being able to get his disk back in place. Personally if the booster is old I would just get a rebuilt one and be carefull to not drop the disk. FWIW the datsun 280Z service manual had a rebuild procedure for the booster. PM me for more info on that if you want to try it.

Check it out. This is the way I will go next time (AFR 205). I researched heads and cams for a year before I decided on Absolute speed, then had a hard time getting them because he's a lone porter with talent and got in over his head with too many orders. His heads work great, but fall off above .600 lift. Anyway check out what AFR's and a thunder cam do in the link below. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395815

The dashboard weighed in at 28 lbs. That is with the aftermarket speedo and tach, and minus the glovebox interior. The car is a 78 280Z. I checked it several times by weighing myself (with clothes and shoes) at 172.5. Then holding the dash I came in at 200.5. The scale is always within a pound of the doc's so it's accurate.

Sounds like the famous age old reaction disk problem to me. The booster has a rection disk in it that will fall if you pull the rod out of the seated position causing the problem you are discribing above. New and rebuilt boosters come with a paper lock on them to keep that from happining. If you pull the rod the disk will fall. You may be able to reposition the one you have.

I see them all the time here in Georgia. I followed one down the street last week in my truck (small buck), and it was like 10:00 AM. Of course it ran out onto a busy street, but it was lucky and the light's were red so it just disapeared into the woods behind some buildings.

That's really cool. Hey purist's, get over it! Ha!

Got the good old "Page cannot be displayed" message.

ASA racing heads are designed for the Grand Am Cam from GM. They have huge ports and would require long tube headers. Scoggings can get them, but personally I believe it's a real bad choice. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2087/Cylinder-Heads.htm