DaleMX

Most think that the toilet paper dispenser on the passenger side of my Z is cute. Come on baby, let's go for a ride and see the TP is for.

Buckazoids.

I cut several of them off my LS1 without any problems. I run mine without the A/C bracket on and there are no leaks (bolt hole exposing water jacket), so my take is that you can cut it without hitting anything.

J, I have my old tranny to diff shaft (78 280 5 spd), if your intrested PM me as I'll let it go cheap. The U joints are fine.

Here ya go, try this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8000041123&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

My modified LS1 ran between 190 and 208 in all August with the JTR radiator and Taurus fan running on high. It's lightweight and very easy to install.

Pop N Wood, Jon, thanks for all the good advice! You guy's hit the nail on the head. I checked the bolts securing the diff mount and all were in place and tight, so I just went ahead and replaced the front bushings only. When I went to remove the passenger side bushing I found it to be so loose that I could turn the bolt with my hand! I had removed the swaybar a while back and had noticed that the bolts to the bushings seemed really close, I thought it was by design. Well it’s not by design it by the prior owner not getting it put together correctly. Oh well, it’s fixed now. It was a quick 20 minute job to do so I decided to just get it back on the road for now and enjoy driving it in this beautiful weather while I may. FWIW the back bushings are tight. Here’s some pics. http://www.circuitflex.com/ControlMountGone.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/ControlMountReplaced.jpg

I know the LS1 has no problem accelerating using 2nd gear starts on a 3.54. Lucky for me it has a .5 OD. If I had a 4 speed manual, even with a big cam, I would be very inclined to go to 3.15

That's great Mike, EFI will go out Monday (I've been in N.C. visiting parents).

My Z has 2 driveshafts and 1 propeller shaft. 78 280Z. The 2 shafts that drive the wheels from the diff are the driveshafts and what is commonly known as a driveshaft to us is a propeller shaft in a Datsun.

Thanks for the advice, based on that I am going to remove the crossmember and control arms to do a full bushing replacement and a diff mount check. I'll snap a pic tomorrow of the underside before I start the removal. While I'm at it I guess I'll take it down for the count and do the rear coilovers and CV's that are waiting in the basement. Then I'll fix the heater. I've got the bushing kit, but have to order the spindle pins and whatever else is broken.

Looks like I might be lucky. It's the drivers side front control arm bushing alright. Looks like the bolt came off and the parts I saw flying were the washers, bolt and bushing. Everything else looks intact.

I'm not sure as it was getting dark so I just had it towed home and went out to the local sports bar. I'll jack it up in the AM and review the damage. I think it's just the diff mount broke, but the rear of the car was going all over the road after the event so it could be the control arm mount too. Once I took it out of gear it coasted straight. Damn good thing I didn't take it to NC like I had originally planed.

Ouch, after the bang and watching the parts scatter in the mirror, these are all I was able to find on the road. http://www.circuitflex.com/Bang.jpg

Rent a cherry picker, the Z has 2 I's for mounting the chain on the front top and back top of the engine. Pull the radiator.

That really is nice. I dont like the new Mustang's, but I like the tailights on a Z. Fantastic idea.

That makes sense, if you run autotap you can see if closed loop operation is working (hint hint).

Yea, I meant manual tranny without OD. If you really tweak it you might get it to work, but FI is so much easier and has a huge performance potential, not to mention the computer compensates for mountian driving, cold weather, hot weather, has knock retard built in, oh and its computer tuned so you dont have to change jets, you just reprogram on the fly with the LS1 stuff. For what it's worth, I took 2nd and 3rd to 6500 today and it pulled like a freight train to 100 mph before I knew it. Makes me wonder how long the stock rear will last if I get on it a bunch. I gotta go to the track and see what the modified LS1 can do. It pulls so hard you have to really concentrate on the tach and the road to say in control.

You can do it, but it won't be a carb and 4 speed transmission car. You gotta go FI and overdrive.

Check out the angle of the licence tag.

I am thinking about the LTD blower now. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84419&highlight=Blower

I tore my A/C and heater out to replace the coils and re-do the foam, but left the blower in. I just weighed the pcs. I weighed in at 167.5, holding the pcs I weighed 191. So it looks like about 24 lbs or so. I would imagine with the blower and liquid in the coil it might approach 40.

If coolant got into the exhaust then kiss the O2's goodbye. Autozone has the correct ones with the extended hookups for the Vette's in stock usually. I ended up getting those so I could put my O2's under the car. Don't use anything except Bosch! When I got mine a Autozone they gave me 2 boxs, when I got home I opened them up to find 2 different sensors in there, but they made good the next day. As your Ltrims are learned then the idle will change. From what I've heard you should go 100 miles or so on the tune before trying to run logs and retune. Mike, I have a spare autotap cable that you can borrow if you have a laptop with a 9 pin serial port connector on it. That way you can see what's going on a little better. PM me if your intrested.

I went today and saw Zerrari's Z on the Rotisserie. He has done top notch work, the frame work is really nice! I must say I was impressed! That car will really be something when he get's it finished. Oh and the Rotisserie is nice too! Thanks Zerrari!

Look's like I'll be by Sat or Sun to check it out. I'll bring the Z.