Nelsonian

Some minor progress this weekend. We painted the rear body panel on the inside of the subtlez panel for complete coverage. We ground the area for applying the 3m adhesive and finally bonded the rear quarters on. We just barely got by with two tubes of the 3m adhesive and then started on adjusting the front passenger side. Lots of cutting/grinding will be needed to get the panel gaps acceptable. The last pictures show the hood and drivers side just resting and not bolted on. She is finally somewhat taking shape. Bob the property owner rolled up in his coupe with a 406, while I was there working today, so I snagged a few shots.

I'm hoping this will work well with fast steering inputs such as when autocrossing. Definately keeping my eye on this.

As read on the provided website: "In the unlikely event that the electric power steering system has a defect, the car would steer exactly like it did prior to power steering conversion. If a car fitted with an hydraulic system would have a fault the car would steer extremely heavy".

Yes, please post some pics.

Just Dashes will peel off the old foam and vinyl and apply new what is used in modern cars. Get ready to pay an arm and a leg though. I was quoted $1500 and up to $1700 to add another gauge or two about six months ago.

Been watching this thread and taking notes as I will sooner than later need to address the mounting of my radiator. I'm liking the cradle method that you have there John. Does anyone have any feedback on the Arizona Zcar radiator?, as that is what I have. I am planning on autocrossing as well as occasionally dragging the car with an l28et in the low 400 hp range.

Oh yeah, forgot to ask. What's the new flavor?

Sold to a fellow Hybridz member?, if not more than encourage the new owner to join.

Thanks for reminding me to post the results from my conversation with Dave (AZCar) three weeks ago. It seems that Dave is not happy with one aspect of the rear parking brake (no indepth details were discussed)and said they were not ready for public consumption as he must find the time to correct what is wrong for a whole batch of these. He said he farmed out the work in somewhat of a hurry and the results are not to his standards or liking, and most unfortunately look like many months down the line before finding any time to dedicate to them.For what it's worth, I stressed how many of us with the wilwood brakes starting with myself,are more than eager to have a parking brake option finalized and ready for purchase. Any one else out there care to take a crack at making a parking brake kit that is sturdy?

Sorry for the delayed response. I measured mine and it looks very much like the aforementioned 28 3/8". I can see how it would be easy to misread the over all dimension with both ends being flexible.

So whats new with your build? Just looking for a progress update.

I am absolutely salivating at your build, and can't wait to see it completed.

Hey Stony good to know about the 3m shrinkage and planning out the timing to account for it. I am moving oh so close to applying my rear subtle z 1/4's with the 3m adhesive and will definitely allow plenty of time for shrinkage.

I need a day or so to dig out of storage, measure and photograph, but will get back.

If you can't find one used, they can be ordered from MSA, not cheap, but new and fresh. I got one from there a few months back.

I just searched it with "L28" and found this: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/3233659611.html

Check out san diego craigslist for a built 3.1 stroker short block.

^^^ I agree 100% and was wondering the same, if it will clear the hoods constraints.

Wouldn't there be a slight benefit of the shorter inter cooler piping also?

Finally a little more progress on getting the rear subtle z 1/4 panels to fit the body. The body guy Stuart as well as myself only get a chance to come out to the car on most Saturdays to make a little bit of forward motion. He welded a new lip/support for the fiberglass 1/4 panel to rest against in an attempt to eliminate any flapping or movement the panel might make while at speed. He slightly pushed out the lower part where it connects to the dogleg upon my request. We will have to split down the waistline to fix the "bowing" effect it puts on the rest of the panel. He welded in a new extended wheel housing metal piece to fill in the gap as well. The whole underside will be undercoated when the time comes for it. The last thing he got around to, was removing the factory lead in the upper c pillars to eliminate a flex/stress area. When it is all done with welding, it will get blasted again by Bob and primed again to cover the metal. Upon catching up with Bob Rector the blaster, owner of the property and gracious host,as he was working on his race car he informed me that he managed to get three warm up runs at Bonneville before something let go in his tranny. He ran a 155 warm up, 190mph and lastly 194mph with looots left to go when his tranny let go. He is working on the car now in preparation for El Mirage.

It looks so good! Must make a video of it tearing around...

I have these as well and ran into the longer shock scenario. A new shorter set fixed the problem. I have not had my car in a completed state for a few years though, so as the body work and panel gaps get worked out, hopefully the hood will line up wel with these.

I just got out of the water surfing at Oceanside and saw two guys both with a prosthetic leg each from the knee down, surfing and reasonably well at that. I think you could do the 5 speed.

Just when I thought I was set with a silver color choice for mine. Been giving alot of thought to the metallic greys. Yes indeed your car looks great in that color. Looking forward to seeing the whole car complete.

S130z, YOur car looks so good in that color along with the Rota's. Is that a bmw shade of blue?