mark

I could see me running under a bus!

My money is on the GT3.

If you can't tune it or have some one tune it, put the stock injectors back in. The larger injectors are dumping more fuel with each pulse. More fuel with out more air makes the car run rich.

If I could pick any car to have as a track car it would be the new GT-3. None the less, great kill!

Look for posts by Mayolives. He had problems with this set up on a road race car. I have a similar issue and I'm ordering axel shafts today that curred Mayolives problems.

Bart, no pics of the bar but I did have to get adjustable end links to get it all to clear. I got my new boots from courtsey nissan. I think they had to order from japan, it took a few weeks to get them.

Bart, I've got the Q diff set up also and I have a front mounted bar. It;s very close back there also. Only difference is that thru the range of suspension travel, my bar will not touch. Do you think that the suspension will travel enough during normal driving to contact the CV boot? If you end up tearing a boot, do not use aftermarket boots. Autozone boots are OK up to about 80. I would drive it around the block and then take a look. If it rubs, Ive got a front mount ST bar I'd trade for the rear mount bar. Mark

Tell him you need a hundred bucks deposit in order to hold the car. See if the scamer will send you a check.

Mine is always for sale. Lt1 t-56, big brakes, 6 pt cage, nice paint, street legal, at least in NC. Well sorted, no rust. 25k takes it.

For 200 bucks, buy it and drive it till it falls apart.

It's normal. Even from a Conservative Christian view point. Read this. You will feel much better. This site is also a great parenting resource. http://family.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/family.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=937

If you lived in the rust belt, that would be a decent car. Since you are on the west coast, I would say find another car. However, the biggest factor for me is the framerails and battery tray area. If the battery tray and the framerail under the tray are bad, I run! Find one that has lived a lot of it's life in the desert. The initial cost of that car will be the least of your expenditures.

try this stuff. http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/561-en.pdf

clean both surfaces and use rtv. Works great.

If you have an NPT type fitting that is leaking, you have a few options 1 just try tightening the fitting. 2 take it apart, clean and inspect the threads on both parts, use teflon tape on the male threads, two wraps of the tape in the direction that will not unwind the tape as the fitting is inserted. If applied correctly, it will not get in the fuel system. The tape ends up inbetween the threads and stays there. 3 replace the fittings. good luck

Are these 3 piece wheels? If so, I would use what the manufacturer reccomends. If these hold the shell to the center section or hold the halfs together, you don't want to use cheap hardware. Buy the tool. You will be glad you did.

Reverse torx. You may be able to find a torx bolt head that will fit that bolt and use it to remove them. See here. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TORX-for-Land-Rover-Discovery-TD5-Freelander-HSE-Range_W0QQitemZ270153624696QQcmdZViewItem

What a dumb Shiite!

That is one bad bad ride.

Just north of Charlotte. Harrisburg

THanks for the offer but I need the larger diameter of the 280 stuff

I'm in NC. I think I'll just get the Z barn to send me a pair. Thanks guys

I've ordered 2 of these at different times. Service was great and fit is exceptional. https://shop.retro-spec.net/splashPage.hgClick to enlarge Others have different opnions than my experience on this site. I can promise you that I would not have bought a second part form these guys if it was not a nice part. When I ordered the site showed the part was in stock.Mfg Part #RSD007InventoryBack Ordered

These would be for a 280 Z. I need the rear strut housings with or with out stub axels is ok. Any out htere? Thanks.

It would be like everything else that gets done to these cars. Need a BFH, a sawzall and a grinder and anything will fit.