Bartman

Here's a direct quote from Skulte that contradicts your 'simple grade school logic': Do the bolt-on wheel adapters increase the load on suspension parts? The suspension loads are only affected by the centerline of the tire. Billet adapters usually correct offset issues when bolting newer style high offset wheels onto older cars that were designed with low offset wheels. A wheel with a 51mm offset and a 2" adapter is identical to the suspension as a 0mm factory wheel. This loads are the same on the wheel studs, bearings, bushings, because the wheel is in exactly the same location on the car. If it helps, imagine two identical wheels, with only the offset being different. Bolt the 2" adapter to the 51mm offset wheel, and it will measure exactly the same as the 0mm offset wheel. http://www.skulte.com/info_pages.php/pages_id/3

There seem to be quite a few people that want to say spacers and/or adapters aren't safe, but is there any evidence to back up that claim? If so, I'd like to see it. Naviathan, I question the logic in your post. If the final offset for two rims is identical, but one achieves that offset with an adapter and one with a deep dish; I contend that the forces exerted on the hub and bearings is going to be the same. I challenge anyone who posts that well made adapters aren't safe to post up evidence or logic that supports that position (other than the adapter lug nuts loosening up, which can be resolved with proper maintenance).

As far as the original question posted, I think that if the wheel adapters are well made they should be safe; however they should be lug-centric instead of hub-centric. Here's a link to Skulte that addresses your issue. http://www.skulte.com/info_pages.php/pages_id/3 If the net offset is the same it doesn't create any more stress.

So I've had these wheels for a while and I just wanted to provide an update on them. I took my car to the MSA Autocross a couple weeks ago and was very happy with the wheels and overall handling of the car. The swaybars helped reduce the roll significantly and the tires provided much more grip than I had previously. The front didn't push too much and I could still easily induce oversteer with the throttle. The key was to provide just enough throttle to keep the rears right on the edge of adhesion instead of breaking the rear end loose and sliding around the turns; although sliding around the turns is a blast. I did spin out once trying to find the limits. On the street the car feels great without being too harsh and without any rubbing. Overall I'm pleased with the look and performance of this wheel package.

I did the same installation a while back. Here's links to my posts for more info. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105929 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107649 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108606 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109874

I got my new Opti from Summit as well. Sometimes you can get genuine GM Opti's on eBay for about $100 less than Summit, but I didn't want to wait.

I could be wrong, but as long as you have the early style mounting brackes I don't think you need to do any modification. I swapped out the 73 brackets for earlier one's when I installed my early style bumper and it was really straight forward. The 73 brackets use different mounting points but the early mounting points are still there as well. Just remove the newer type brackets and install the early style ones.

Try Summit Racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=STQ%2D52095&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I'm happy to see this thread resurrected and I agree with the sticky suggestion since it got quite a few posts after you posted to it.

I would be interested in a bar like Jeff made as well. I'm pretty tall, so I'm a little concerned about interference with the back of my seat as well as the possible differences in vehicles like Jon mentioned. Hopefully I’ll be able to check it out personally this weekend. I have no problem with getting one without paint or powdercoat.

Jeff, I don't know the requirements for a harness bar, but I'm interested in one for my setup as well. There was a 240z at the Japanese Classic Car Show that had one installed and it looked like what your describing. BTW - Are you going to the MSA Performance Driving Event this weekend?

My car was "leaning" like that as well. I've since installed an ST swaybar kit and I'll see this weekend if it makes a difference. Here's a link to a thread I started a while back about how much my car was "leaning". http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122913

I'm going to go against the grain here and recomend you only do the things necessary for the swap. Once you complete the swap then you can figure out what you want to upgrade and what can stay stock. Sure you can upgrade the brakes with the Toyota 4x4 disks and larger master cylinder, but that doesn't really give you very much benefit. If you really want to get serious than you'd be much better of with a better setup. So you may just wind up doing things twice. Get the swap done, keep your cost down, have some fun with it - and then start making other upgrades as needed. Most of the upgrades your talking about are just as easy to do later than they would be to do now.

I'm still using my sway bar the way it's pictured above. I didn't drop the mount at all to make it work. It may be easier for me since I have plenty of mounting points to choose from on my LCA's. I haven't had any problems, but I haven't pushed it hard yet either. I'll have a better idea how well it works after the MSA event in a little over a week.

I ran into the end ink problem as well and I had to make them as short as possible to get enough clearance. It seems to be working, but I'll have a better idea after the MSA Performance Driving Event.

In this situation it appears a search provides the needed info. Try this thread that I located using the search function. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130058 It also contains quite detailed data from VinhZXT himself.

So I bought some powdered graphite lubricant and sprayed it into the lock. It turns much smoother now. I don't know if this is a long term solution, but it's working good for now.

CarFan, thanks for the detailed information on removing the cylinder. Warren, it could very well be the key is worn; I'll have to see about getting the codes and trying a new key. Can a locksmith lookup the key code based on the VIN? I read where the code is sometimes in the glovebox, but mine has been replaced. Shift, the steering wheel isn't locked.

The problem I'm having is getting the key to turn the cylinder. It was stuck in the on position and even though I eventually got it to turn off it's still hard to turn now.

Yes, it probably is just the cylinder. Is it easy to just replace the cylinder instead of getting a complete switch with the cylinder?

I went to shut off my car today and the key wouldn't turn off. The key will easily go in and out but it wouldn't turn off. I pulled the battery cable and I eventually was able to get the key to turn off by using some WD40. So what should I do now? I don't want to have this happen again. Do I need to replace the whole ignition switch or is there something else I can do? I have an extra ignition switch, but I can't get the keys to turn in that one either.

I lived in the valley for many years and I was surpised when I went back recently and saw downtown Scottsdale. I totally agree with John opposing "a taller and denser downtown Scottsdale, citing concerns of traffic, infrastructure, impacts on adjacent neighborhoods and a loss of the city's character." I believe Scottsdale use to be the "west's most western town" and now it's more like the Beverly Hills of Arizona.

I've had a few problems with my Opti, and based on my experiences and research I would stay away from the aftermaket units. The price of genuine GM units has come down quite a bit and it seems people have beter luck with them. Hopefully I won't be dealing with mine again for a long time. I've had a couple of problems that turned out to be due to my Opti and one lingering problem that wound up being due to fuel pressure. My aftermarket Walbro pump wasn't getting enough voltage through the stock fuel pump wiring.

I looked at your Corvette Suspension album and Holy Cr*p that's some major fabrication there. Keep up the good work and keep us updated on your progress.

Looks great David! I may have to switch to the billet aluminum mustache bar, uprights and cross brace; as they look really nice and probably work better than the pieces I'm currently using.