NZeder

I did not know that R31House made TommyKaira M30 engine. They must have as the M30 engine was EFI and the one in the youtube video was triple carbs. See here for a pic of the original install TommyKaira engine aka M30 - along with a Autech RB26DE installed into a R31 and a R31 special with RB25DE with RB26 intake plenum. R31 N/A Power

Rims are locally made Arrow Wheels - 3 piece, 16x9 with 225/45/16's on all 4 corners. Stock fenders front and rear (the rear has been trimmed in the past when larger tires were ran - before I go the car). Does not have coil overs so stock spring perches are in use. They work out at 16x9 -7.4mm offset

ITB's with a good cold airbox = as stated the best of both. If the air is designed right then you can run nice long trumpets in it too. ***Please admin's edit this post if this is inappropriate*** I have some triple throttle bodies for sale currently. I have sold my 280zx project car so these are no longer required (I have a second set for my 260z). Below is a copy of the ad I have running on our ebay type website. "Brand New - never used. Here we have some Brand New never used Triple DCOE throttle bodies. These are 45mm with the pro series trumpets as shown in the pic. These come fuel rails for Jap 11mm O-ring top feed injectors. One TB has the D shaft mod for the included TPS switch/sensor. Also includes all balance joiner and a cable pull arm/linkage. These retail here in NZ for close to $3000NZD. My loss is your gain. Selling as I have had a project change and these are no longer required. ### I have also have these advertised else where and reserve the right to withdraw at any time ### Suit any DCOE intake manifold - great for your Datsun Z car, Triumph with inline 6, Valiant, Torana, Falcon etc. These are still wrapped up as I received them - but I will take some photos in the weekend - however they look just like the sample pic currently shown. Info about the TB's from manufacture. **Throttle bodies are manufactured from heat treaded 601 Aluminum alloy and are CNC machined. The brass shafts run on bearings with the butterflies secured by split screws for ease of servicing and reliability. The butterflies have .0005" tolerance fit to ensure good balance and fit while the injector bose placement is positioned to ensure good fuel atomization. **The Pro-series rum tubes have been designed using advanced computer modeling and a flow bench to obtain the best flow. They feature a full 270 degree return on the bell mouth for additional draw. **Linkages are manufactured from 6061 aluminum and reamed finished where the shaft mounts to obtain a slip proof fit. They come anodized blue for a smart appearance." I am after $1900 NZD which using a 0.75 USD to NZD (exchange rate from the other day) = $1425 USD. Shipping from NZ to US should not be too bad as they are light and will go into a smallish box. I also have some RB25DET injectors and for some extra I could include some 14mm o-ring fuel rail too so you will have a choice of what injectors you want to run. Here are some pics of one of the units that I have unpacked - the others are still as I got them (wrapped in bubble wrap) PM if interested.

I know of 3 locally all using N42/N42.

You sure that is not a miss print and should be RD28 ie the Diesel version of the RB much like the L28 and LD28. The RD28 were in many of the JDM cars based on the same floor pans as the R31, R32, R33 skylines - ie Laurel are most common RD28 finds here in NZ. The RB30 were found here in NZ and OZ in the Holden Commodore range, Nissan Skyline R31 and the Nissan Patrol. There were a few RB30 engine that did stay in Japan and made into the Tommy Kaira Special M30 based on the R31 Skyline GTS-R. It delivered 177 kW (240 PS) @ 7000 rpm and 294 N·m (30.0 kgf·m) @ 4800 rpm. These were a RB30DE made up of the RB30 bottom end and custom modified RB20 head. Sorry I can't help with the part numbers as I don't have a parts number/catalog/fast CD etc I would help if I could.

I agree and that is without using translation software or knowing Japanese I get this by looking at the pictures. If you look at this pic of the block notice the lack of the 4 bolt holes round the oil filter area. All F54 have them - this block does not. So this would make it a P30 aka L24/L26 block (unlikely) or the hard to find but they do exist as I have one early N42 casting. Now back to the early N42 comment above it is said that these early N42 with the different casting around the oil filter have a high nickel content in the steel and are aslo solid ie non siamese unlike the later N42/F54's (do a search and you will find that N42 are siamesed) So these early N42 can take a big bore easier than the later blocks. You can get 90 or 90.5mm from a Nissan block I know as I have a N42 at 90mm currently. So now back to the picture of the engine with the bob sharp cover. I am thinking this is a different engine as the looking at the pic you can see it has one of the oil filter direction changers installed. These usually bolt on the 4 holes around the filter = a different block to the one shown without the head. Well that is my take just by looking at the pictures. Now back on to the topic of this thread -- Excellent work on your head and figures Paul you no doubt are happy with the results.

I have one but I am in New Zealand

The points based tach's are a direct copy of the Smiths setup so they have a loop from the + side of the coil. Here in NZ our 260z (up to 1978) still had a points based dizzy so therefore this older type + loop tach setup. So given how hard it is to find a 280z tach locally I took my tach to a local smith instruments guys who was known to have a conversion kit that can upgrade the UK Jag Smith based tachs from the + loop type to the modern - coil type. So a few days later and a new circuit board my 240z (and 260z) tach have been converted and calibrated to the more modern - coil signal type. So much so is the Zed tach a copy of the Smith unit they even use UNC screws not metric like the rest of the car - makes you think that Nissan had a license to use these Smith style tachs in the cars in the first place. If you want to have the stock tach look I would contact a local speedo/tach/instruments shop and tell them you have tach that is a copy of the Jag smith + loop type and do they sell/do a conversion kit. I know the Jag kit works as this is what has been installed in my 240z tach. Hope this info is of use.

Ask if they have an RB torque plate if they do have them use this as they share the same bore spacing and head bolt locations as the L6 series (no don't try and install a RB head onto a L bottom end the oil and water galleries are too different and then there is the belt vs chain issue too)

Sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead. I thought I would share my findings downunder with regards to the Tach issue. I have purchased a Pertronix pick-up, coil and a second strike unit so I knew that I would need to sort the Tach signal issue etc. Anyway knowing that our local 260z is basically a the same body as your 280z I thought I would just pickup a 260z tach (I assumed Nissan would have moved away from the loop + coil tach signal setup on these like your 280z.....wrong so wrong. You see our local 260z right up to 77/78 still had points so Nissan kept the old loop tach thing going...) So I thought I would share a few pics with you guys. The 260z tach was from a 1977 260z. For those 280z owner that want to have a 7000 Redline maybe (rather than your 280z 6500 rpm limit - if the font is the same) you could just pickup one of our tach's and swap the face over. You will see that the 260z tach has a single plug for the tach and all the lights to the tach (nice) and one the left is the stock 4 wire 240z tach. Now that I know that my tach's are no good in there current configuration I am off to see the local gauge guy who will convert these to the more common - coil pickup type tach. He installs a electronic board, mods the unit and then re-calibrates the unit.

wow nice quick progress there Rob - might have go for a drive and pop in for a visit to check out the work in the flesh

Rob, I am a local Z Club member - I recognise the 240z - did it used to be in Auckland and owned by ??? Daryl? a large-ish guy? Any can't wait to see what this will go like when complete - so this is replacing the old work horse that you used to run - ie the car that was in the performance car mag a year or so ago? There is also another NZ hybridz member that I know who is building a RB30DET - I believe you did his intake plenum too - again his plan is street legal car too - however not a drag strip car. I have a RB26 head and RB30 bottom end that I will put together one day but with triple TB and NA (just purchased another z so engine budget gone currently) Great project - look forward to seeing at the Meremere some day

I am from down under (well downunder and across abit to find the land of the long white cloud aka New Zealand) and I purchased set of the CRS mounts (won't be doing the RB conversion for some time now that I purchased a second zed - budget for the RB going on the new 240z) Anyway I got on the phone - called the guys they were good to deal with I think they are more old school and not too keen on the non personal touch of email etc.

Sorry but do you math again. 8" rim = approxy 9" outside lip to outside lip (rims are measured bead to bead) so to have an 8" rim with 4.5" backspace it would have to be 0 offset. If you are thinking 7" rim (ie 8" lip to lip) with 4.5" backspace then you have offset approx +12. So if these were +12 offset on a 8" rim then they would have close to 5" of backspace.

cool thanks for that - so looks like I will have to remove the centre once again, disassemble and install these C-Clips. So what is the general rule then 6 good washers vs the 8 not so good ones or 8 good washers for extra preload?

Just for interest I have purchased stuff from summitracing in the past - shipping to NZ was not a problem so I assume the same OZ (go for it what with our NZ and AU dollar so good vs the US currently)

sound great - any pics showing Tony D's setup?

Question for you re the problems you had and I found out. First the OBX centres are designed for S13/S14's so it is designed for the M12 not M10 as stated above - easy fix. Next issue I have found is the input shafts C-Clips. The earlier long-nose R200's have the C-Clips held in the side gear inside the diff. The OBX centres don't have the clips installed. So this started to get me to think - maybe the S13/S14 are designed like other diffs and to have the C-Clip installed on the shafts. So this lead me to research these cars diffs. Then I found a pic on this site with 300zx input shafts next to S13 input shafts. See attached pics. So can any one confirm if the S13/S14 do indeed have the C-Clips on the input shafts not in the centre. If this C-Clip design has changed as I believe then I will need to modify 300zx input shafts so the C-Clip groove is deeper this way the C-Clip will be retained on the shaft (My diff guy has installed the OBX into the diff so I can't pull out and disassemble to see if the OBX C-Clip groove is a shallow one (it looks like it when looking down the input shaft hole)) So I am thinking that if the C-Clip is designed to be the other way around then if you don't make the mod to the input shafts (to retain the C-Clip) I am guessing that there is a chance the input shafts will float in and out of the centre - maybe enough to slam into the belleville washers = result damage to the washers. That leads to this question - what did the end of your input shafts look like? Were they polished like they were slamming into the washers? I will be taking my input shafts to the diff guy so he can confirm that they will need to be modified.

What size rotor are you running with the wilwoods? Who kit is it? I have the JSK brake setup 12.2" rotor and would like to know if these will clear these rims?

Cool That is what I want too good news on the tollerances - are you using 240z struts or 280z struts? Good to know. So if I understand this correct you have 1.25" of the original strut tube showing? ie from the forging/axle-hold-bit to the bottom of the weld-on threaded collar is 1.25"? So if this is the case and you have 1" of the original tube inside this bit then you only have 2.25" of the original tube left - whereas on the websites install it states leave 5.5" for the 240z and 7.5" for the 280z (our late model 260z down this part of the world) It does - I think I will look at getting a set for my 240z.

You see a lot of this kind of suspension setup here locally in NZ in S13/S14/S15 and the Skyline range R32/R33/R34 etc most of the drift guys go with this stuff as you can purchase bolt-in kits for these newer models see http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/mono_flex.html for one of many suppliers. I like the idea - coilovers with height adjustable but still keeping the travel the same and as luck would have it I have just purchased a 240z that requires some suspension work in the future and with out dollar so good against the US currently I too am very interested in this setup. I would agree with the 2" engagement and if I got this kit that is what I would look at doing - if you see his install instructions on the front he is using 1 1/2" but in this case it is also welded to the lower stub-thing-bit. The other question I have in the install page he drills a hole in the rear to again access to the adjustment of the shock at the bottom. If the front is setup the same how do you adjust it?

Mine was the same with all 12.9 bolts however mine did cost a little more than the $375 - however the guy I purchased from did have 2 prices $375 and $425 and I paid the $425 (not knowing he had the same unit for less) so the only think I can think off is that the $375 were not quite up to the same standard/grade and hence the price difference (well that is what I am telling myself anyway)

I recall seeing on another thread with a pic of the Castlemain mounts next to someone else's and the Castlemain looked like they would mount the engine lower. Check with some of the Oz Zed forums and see if this question has been answered there before.

Juan is still around I purchase his brake kit earlier this year. Here is a link to his new website - email/call him to see if he still does the fuel rails. http://www.autobrakeworks.com/home.htm