dr_hunt

you'd be using the wrong turbo. It would have a host of problems and my guess it the turbo would be short lived. Buy corky bells book or learn how to properly select a turbo from many of the online turbocharging folks like ray hall. You need to find a turbo that your in the sweet spot most of the time if not all the time with peak efficiency or near that at your full boost level.

Here is the car, you can kind of see the flames change colors in the shop lights. This is a shot of the interior of the car. I installed the hurst quarter stick shifter in the stock location with minimal cutting of the stock shifter cover. I think it looks good.

Yup, but that depends on how often you change oil, spring pressure and how often you adjust the valves. I've put about 140K miles on a solid lifter street motor. Went about 70K each build.

Does the dog drive or did the car just scare the hell out of him on a ride? The FMIC on the pinks car is 6 inches thick, and looks alot like yours. I'm getting ideas about how to utilize it in the next build. I think that's a great score. Mod it and stuff it in there!

Actually, it's a 4 bolt flange, TO4 Rayjay 300E turbo. Looked very closely at putting in some borgelson u-joints but it's a no go there. V-band isn't going to help matters here much. I was looking at Chris Chow's TT GN and he had the same problem. Solution for him was to exit out the fender right in front of the door. I could do that but the car is already painted and I'm not going to butcher the car. It is a full street trim, power window, tilt, cruise, A/C, Alpine stereo. Really it could be a show car and once I get it done, it'll probably get in a few shows, just to see how it does. Actually, playing with turbo selectors last night a pair of GT35's will probably do what I want or even a pair of T62-1's might be better. For now though I want to try these out. I'm going to have to get a 10 clutch high drum for the PG to handle that kind of power anyway and yank the trans for a major at some point before turning the boost up. I'll snap a pic for you all to look at and post up later. I don't know about you but this is giving me ideas for the next hybridz car build.

Well, got the engine and trans installed, started putting on the exhaust manifolds and turbo's. RUH ROH! The downpipe on the driver side interferes with the steering shaft and there is basically no way to get around it on the side, but it looks like I can go towards the rear of the manifold and down the back past #7 cylinder. So, I'm going to finish it up, get it started and make sure everything works, get initial tune, etc. Then trailer it to Alb. to see a guy named Tyler. Good kid does fab tig welding. Have him fab me new downpipes for both sides, weld in the O2 bungs, ext. wastegates and evac bungs. Going to go 3" stainless. My flanges are 3" and it necks down to 2.5 inch, but I'm guessing that later I'm going to want to run GT40's or GT42's so I'd better go 3" now. Got to get this project out of the shop so I can take alittle trip to California and pick up the new HybridZ project car!!!! Stay tuned folks................................

Welcome! Grumpyvette and Mikelly are our two resident corvette experts. Grumpy builds wild HP and Mikelly drives wild HP on the track. I'd PM either one or both of them for some answers. Sorry, there may be other corvette experts, sorry if I forgot all of you.

What, no problems?!! Come on John, we need Drama!!!! Wow, 8 percent over, Hmmmm, that should be about 16psi boost, with a good tune should be around 700rwhp maybe alittle more. Probably all the little z can hook up and then some!!!! 20% over would be about 20psi and on alky should make around 1400HP.

Mine runs 150 all the time, 170 if I lean it out, no stat, no fan! I also run the stock z radiator and the 406 is putting down some ponies!

IMO the 200-4R is a better choice because it has a higher geared OD. The z is so light that the 327 shouldn't have a problem cruizing and knock down some impressive mileage.

You have to remember that the z was made in the day when 8 tracks and hi-fi ruled! Here you go stuffing 450+watts of power in this 30 year old car, so you have to understand that low frequency sound waves posess alot more energy than high frequency sound. I can't believe that your stereo puts out enough power to move or rattle the rear hatch knowing how heavy it is to lift as it is. So, your basically overpowering the z! Accoustically the cars chassis and windows weren't designed to handle more than 4 watts rms per channel Hi-Fi!! To suitably handle all that power some chassis reinforcement and strut bars and possibly bullet proof glass may be required. So the question really is how much power is too much for z to handle? I think that some new rear molding and adjustment of the 30 year old latch is in order at a minimum.

See, why bother building an L28 when you'll be slapping yourself upside the head saying "I could have had a V8!" Voila' perfecto! Git r done!

The supercharger won't work, take it off and give it to me. I'll use it for a paperweight.

Kind of neat, but it didn't win the competition or place in the top five. Seems like it might be a misprint of numbers because the results of the 2005 showdown showed them making an average of 601HP and 529TQ, so I don't know if I believe those printed numbers because they would have won hands down by over 100 HP and about 100 TQ!!! Of all the engines, this one is probably the most customized piece of work in the entire group that competed. Custom made everything from heads, sleeved block, bored cam tunnel, custom fab intake, custom crank, custom rods, custom pistons, almost everything custom and surely not available to the public.

Gave it a bath meaning you????, washed the engine and the car or just the car? Maybe you got some water in the dizzy cap. Easy to check, check the easy things first. Sounds like an electrical problem, but it's not easy to tell with your description.

I guess I don't understand the purpose of being able to build boost in neutral reving the engine and how that means anything in regards to performance capability. You didn't specify stabbing the throttle several times to achieve that level of boost, so one can only guess. My understanding was if the throttle was at WOT and you were running a two step that boost could be achieved at launch with a manual trans. Auto is different since you stall the converter which puts the engine under load. I've read corky bells book and sever other sites that grumpyvette so kindly posted about 30 of, I think I read two or three links worth which was a wealth of information. So my understanding of the dynamics of operation isn't real world like alot of you guys on here. While you may do it, how does that show or depict what the car does under load? Help me here if you would. I would think that what you are describing is a turbo that has little if any lag, may be too small and run out of cfm for any top end depending on boost level, but I guess it depends on what your trying to accomplish and what area of the turbo map your running in correct? From what I've read and know, which isn't that much, something doesn't sound right about having that ability without being under load, but maybe you could enlighten me.

That car sounds soooooooooooooooooooo sweet! The exhaust note was music, pure and simple!!! Your car is one of the nicest around!!! Even 5 seconds on an automatic on the transbrake is really hard. On mine I wait until the first yellow comes on for a full tree and leave on the third yellow, so about 1.5 seconds.

Great to have you aboard, welcome!!!!! Look everybody, fresh meat! JK

Yeah, I'll bet.

Is it on an engine stand? If so that's leaning forward so the cam will walk out when you rotate it. Under running conditions when the engine is steady state or accelerating the distributor and oil pump drag pulls the cam to the back of the engine. When decelerating the cam will move forward, changing timing slightly. No biggie, run a thrust button if your really worried about it. The rear thrust is necessary to keep it from wiping out the front of the block.

Really, 8 lb of boost in neutral just revving the motor? You sure about that?

I went to put the converter in the PG last night and bolt the trans and the engine together. Poured about a half a quart in the new art carr converter, just to make sure it wasn't dry. I'm sure you all know where this is going. So, most stock converters just slip right in, you spin it alittle to get the pump dogs to mesh with the converter and in she goes, right. Nope, the art car is so damned tight fitting it had no slop, I had greased the seal and shaft, shoved, pushed rotated, etc. to no avail, it kind of went in past the seal and that was about it. Meanwhile some of the trans fluid was pouring out the converter while I was trying to get it in the seal. So finally, once I got it in the seal, I grabbed my rubber mallet and hit the center a few times and in it went but it was extremely tight. Bolted right up to the engine, spins nicely but tight. So, another little mess. Well, we'll see on tune, I'll probably be looking you up. My cam is rather large compared to yours so I'm sure it'll need alot of timing to be responsive down low. I've heard that the blow through setups have a large cooling effect on the charge air so you run more timing. This comes from my friends running prochargers in a blow through setup, seems to be confirmed by your accounts as well. My old MAC timing light magnet broke and so I had to buy a new SnapON digital one off ebay for $125. Well, new to me. Works great and I glued the magnet back in and gave it to a friend, seems to still work, but I had issues with it being accurate.