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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. I like my saab intercooler from a 96 900 I believe. I think I paid $40 from a junk yard, been using it it for four years now. I've considered upgrading but I haven't found a need to yet.
  2. Will do. The dunlops are $400 each and I only saw 18" rim size.
  3. I have to disagree about na cams and turbo cam being different. A good turbo doesn't make much back pressure.
  4. The drag racing class I run in requires a minimum 260 tread wear and has to be "hard treaded street tire". All the tires I find are at least 400+. Anyone know what tire fits this description. I have a 15 x 6" wheel. If like the most possible traction and still be within the rules.
  5. I would contact comp cams. This doesn't seem to involve a Z car though.
  6. Those 60' look like the tires are spinning. I'd shoot for anything under 2.0.
  7. If you use the 83 harness you'll need the 82-83 distributor. If the car had megasquirt the afm may have been removed? Or is it still there?
  8. Retared timing will also make it sluggish. My timing is 30 degrees at idle and bumps up incremently to 40. At 4psi it starts retarding down to about 25 at 15 psi.
  9. Like a batch fire ecm from a tbi engine? That would seem to be a little simpler that the sequential ford ecm.
  10. They are tunable. Yes I use megasquirt but my car hasn't ran since February. I was thinking about trying something different where I don't have to modify the ecu itself. I may still incorporate the ms later on. I've done some reading on rangerpowersports.com and the ranger efi system will support boost.
  11. I was pondering the idea of a ecm from a 1996 model ford ranger with a manual trans in a 280zx turbo. I'm pretty sure it would run I'm just not sure about a boosted application and larger injectors. I know a can adapt the 36-1 trigger wheel so why not just use the ecm as well and have on board diagnostics? Anyone been there?
  12. The dowel pin must have slid out a little. A tap with a hammer would have likely done the trick but thanks for the update. I'm amazed at how many folks never update after making a repair.
  13. I only have this problem when I use fuel from QT. For some reason their fuel has a very low boiling point. I also had a fuel percolation problem on a carbed 350 chevy. The fuel was only 130 degrees. I've since been using chevron or bp.
  14. One thing you can try is checking voltage and ground to the pump. It would be best if you could monitor the voltage while driving.
  15. Internal or external pump? If external make sure the punp is completely gravity fed and not sucking air.
  16. Did the kit come with the fuel pump? It just sounds like a weak fuel pump.
  17. What I have now done is solder all the pieces on the board for hall/optical tach input and now I'm getting rpm on the stim. Now I just have to get a gm 7 pin hei module a wire it in and test. Will update.
  18. Oh. Look for L28 rocker removal. My username on youtube is the same here.
  19. The fuel is boiling before it gets to the pump. That is why it is loud. Some way to cool the fuel or an in tank pump would be about the only way to cure it.
  20. http://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=mUOckGkaqok
  21. Look on youtube. I made a video on how to do it.
  22. Is the bottom of the intake sealed to the block?
  23. Good point. I wish I had internet back then. I was very young.
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