BluDestiny

First question is about the exhaust. I have a 6-1 exhaust that was originally on a 280z, and it didn't have an O2 bung. So I went to a local muffler shop and got on O2 bung welded in at the collector. Now, the question is when I install it is how do I block off the EGR line? Should I clip it and just put a cap on it? Or completely remove the hard line and put a bolt in the intake. Second question about the intake. I want to install an shaved N42 non egr intake on my Z. The problem is that my year ZX (81) has the intake that has the idle screw as part of the intake. How would I go about installing the intake? I don't even know how to go about it because there are a lot of problems with messing with the harness. I'm pretty sure it would have been easier if I had an earlier model with the idle screw on the throttle body.

Do a leak down test or compression test. Or go get them done at a shop. Also when you changed your coolant, was is full of rust or gunk? Also what type of coolant mix do you use? 50/50? I use 70water/30coolant and use water wetter.

I'm pretty sure you need a new head regardless.... small cracks like hairline? or big enough to fit a fingernail in?

You don't have points. Its electrical ignition.

I was trying to install an MSD 6AL unit and it was wired up fine for the MSD to work, but the tach isn't moving at all. It also has an upgraded coil(msd Blaster 3). Used this picture http://sethwissner.com/MSDwiring.jpg I know it has something to do with the Ballast resistor wires (the 3 wires that run into it) I just don't know what combination of them to use. Or do I need to get the tach adapter? I'm pretty sure I shouldn't need one because I've seen posts of 240z and 280z's not using a tach adapter.

Mine is on the passenger side of the engine bay. On the flat part of of the strut area pillar(whatever you call it). Run the wires right above the Radiator and directly to the starter.

was is from a Shiro model?

I agree with Tony on both statements. If you bring any shop a ghetto rigged project that works for you they will probably tell you everything will have to be redone "to spec" so you can't sue them. Also Art and Mike are really good guys. They are both capable of hooking up megasquirt in your car. They're a bit busy as of now though so you may have to wait till the end of next week. I was there 2 days ago and they were packed.

I agree with Tony on both statements. If you bring any shop a ghetto rigged project that works for you they will probably tell you everything will have to be redone "to spec" so you can't sue them. Also Art and Mike are really good guys. They are both capable of hooking up megasquirt in your car. They're a bit busy as of now though so you may have to wait till the end of next week. I was there 2 days ago and they were packed.

I need a 280zx seatbelt, the retractor thing and the receiver that bolts to the seat rails. Its for the passenger side, but I don't think it matters. Red or black if you it, but will take any color.

Looking for a driver door that has preferably no dents and no molding, but the the molding doesn't matter as much Also the gas tank if you have a decent one, and lastly the rear seats Also if anyone is parting a 2+2 out I'll take the rear seatbelts and the front passanger seatbelt. I'm only going to do local pickup on the gastank, seats, and door, but I'll pay shipping for the seatbelts. Local is anywhere within 3 hours driving. Call me at 818-919-4242 or email me at day1461@yahoo.com for the fastest response

from xenons30.com

Ok Update. I painted the trunk area and passanger floor area and I did get the holes patches. Some pics. Here's the patch, painted over I also got to hacking the intake and cleaned it up a bit. Also had the holes filled in at a local muffler shop for $20 Finally, I also got to drill out those crappy side moldings Hopefully it will be ready for some paint within a month. After I learn some body work that is

Why do you need a new one, the original unit is usually a pretty decent cooler. Also If you don't want "limited" brand (read ebay specials) rads then you can do the SR20/S13 alum rad swap. Just make some mounting brackets and you have a wider choice of "brand name" rads to go for. I believe a koyo rad would only cost like $100 more and there are plently others for about $50 more. http://www.zcar.com/forums/884401/sr20det-aluminum-radiator

It's an Injector cooler for when you shut the car off and let it sit. I'm currently not running one, and really have no ill effects. Sometimes, on really really hot days when I shut my car off after its at operating temp and then go to start it again 5 min later, maybe I might get some hiccup, but it will still start. That hiccup probably isn't even related to the "hot" gas in the fuel rail and more related to the crud in the fuel system that is blocking my old ass fuel pump.

My ZX, done by the PO. woops I didn't see the s30 part.

Just the motor was bone stock, like the internals, j-pipe, ECU? Or are you running an intercooler, better turbo, exhaust piping, Meqasquirt etc... This makes me really want to turbo my car.

This guy has springs and shocks http://www.zcar.com/forums/889735/parting-out-datsun-72-240z-every-part-has-go

Hey everyone. This is my first official build thread. This is with the first datsun I've evey owned, it was the car that inspired me to get an s30 in the first place. The car: 1981 280zx 2+2 GL (Panda) When I got it, it had no interior pieces int he trunk, and was missing the backing of one of the fold down seats. I still need the fold down seat behind the driver. It also came missing a bunch of random interior trim pieces, like the fuse box panel and one of the under dash light panels. The Story: One of my friends had basically had this car in his family since it was bought new off the lot. His uncle eventually passed it down to him, he gave it some minor mods, and then blew the engine taking it up a canyon about 3-4 years ago. It was sitting in his front yard, and he new that I loved Nissan. At the time I was driving an 1990 nissan Sentra, The car I learned to drive in, and I was 16 at the time. Well he offered to give me the car for $500 since the rims he had on it were worth about $1100 (bought from rbmotoring.com). When it really came down to it though, he ended up just giving me the car with two very distinct instructions, I can never sell those rims, and I have to get the car running again. Well I bought a "rebuilt motor" from this guy off of a forum, put the motor in, and it blew about 2 months later while I was on the freeway. Turned out he had broken off a piece of the block and jb welded it back in place, unfortunately it was a cooling passage, and it broke off and all my coolant leaked out. Some pics of it sitting with that **** motor pulled SOOOO flash forward to 6 months ago and I put in my own rebuilt engine. Got an F54 block had it rehoned, decked, jet tanked, crank magnafluxed, etc. The major performance parts were the Ross 1mm oversized forged flat-top pistons I had bought, along with a Fidanza 11 lb Flywheel and a stage 1 Exedy organic clutch . Other than that the bottom end is pretty stock, and almost bullet proof. From there I pretty much put about 700 miles on the engine, then drove it cross country to Florida for college. While there I really didn't do much. I had the cracked windshield replaced, and a pair of 300zx seats installed, and I got the windshield and seats for free. I also bought some interior pieces that I was missing. Some pics of my and my friend putting in my motor Anyway Now that I'm back for summer I have a lot of plans....The first of which is repainting the interior and looking for rust, which I've already found. Here's the progress so far. I'm going to repaint the interior with POR 15 and then maybe a layer of primer, since I don't plan on installing rear interior parts I'm thinking of also putting a layer of truck bed liner down. I'm also removing the Sound deadening tar and looky what I found. A real cheap plastic patch thing hiding this... Engine wise I eventually plan of installing my N42 non-egr intake, I need to get it shaved first, mostly to clear up the engine bay. With it I'll install of set of 6-1 headers I have laying around and a pallnet fuel rail, as soon as I can afford it. I've also just picked up a sparco Fighter Bucket seat today and need to get some sliders and a bracket to install along with some harnesses. I'll take pics of those parts and post them in a few days. Anyway I plan on updating this a few times a week since I have nothing to do during summer.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html I was referencing 8.5 to the stock 280z(8.3ish) since you're using a 280z/early 280zx block Also from my understanding of a longer duration cam( not an expert, just read it on how stuff works), you're letting in more air, especially with the "bigger" valves (not sure if a mmm or two can make that much difference in a street application) which is probably leaning out the mixture and really straining your SU's, unless you have bigger jets or something. You said it got better when you did lean it out though, so I don't know what to say to that. I could totally be wrong though, I'm not an expert engine builder or anything, this is all just info. Please correct me if I'm wrong

Your getting Knock when your compression is at 8.5:1? That's pretty close to stock IIRC

It may just be me, but I feel as if sourcing another head would be easier and possible cheaper depending on how much your shop charges

I wish I could have been that lucky as an 8yr old

Assuming it is completly stock and that it hasn't been getting regular checkups and whatnot, you probably have exhaust leaks, which cause the smell. Another reason for exhaust fumes in the cabin can come from the rear deck area. There is an intersting sticky attached to the Body section, its about adding a rear spoiler to get rid of fumes. Bring your car to a decent exhaust/muffler shop and get them to take a look at it. My friend brought his car, put a 6-1 header on it, and had them bend a complete single pipe, 2.5",(no cat) to a Magna flow muffler that the shop supplied. It sounds pretty decent, and cost him about $350 for the work, muffler, and pipe. The 6-1 header cost him $300 from MSA. Edit: add some pictures of your ride

Yikes, that sounds like the machine shop that did all the work, did the owner dirty. Where did this rebuild happen?