BluDestiny

It's too big. When I got rid of my wiper on my other ZX I went to a local hardware store and found some rubber plugs. I've also found ones to delete the antenna hole as well. they come in many different sizes.

Well we know it's in Oz so maybe someone from down under can speak up. I recall seeing that pic on this board before.

I didn't know you had an aftermarket clutch. What do you still need? and how much did the all the headwork cost?

The injector may be cracked and dumping/leaking fuel. Start the car and remove each injector wire one at a time. each one should stall the car but if you remove one and its acting exactly the same then that injector/cylinder has something wrong with it.

I was running 205/50/15 with Tokio springs and illuminas, it didn't look as high as yhlz's

I don't know if its just me, but I hardly see anything coming out. If that's the case I feel like john is saying that its completely normal. If the oil has been in there a real long time, enough to build up, maybe seafoam it and put in some new oil. If you don't notice any drop in performance I wouldn't worry.

It's in the fuel system catagory for stock parts. Don't know why. I know MSA had it though since I had to order on from them http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SFC03A/11-3501 I think this is what you want.

I believe someone in the USA already did this. I recall them having a post about not wanting to go fuel cell for one reason or another. The company was in or close to Florida which is why it peaked my interest. The cost was around $650-700, but he said a lot of that was actually design and it may be a bit cheaper if we order again using the same design. Bam: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96955-a-%E2%80%9Cstock%E2%80%9D-fuel-tank-solution/

I'll be back in early-mid july. I took a picture of their sign on one of the many occasions I was stuck there waiting for them to finish one of my projects. You are correct about going through everything to make sure its in working order. I still have to send my turbo injectors off to get cleaned and flow tested, and I want to get the turbo ex manifold sandblasted, decked and coated along with a few other things that need a deep cleaning. Luckily I had the engine rebuilt back when I was going to Burroughs so I'm good on that. Enough thread jacking, you'll want it as flat as you can get it. Use a straight edge and some thin feeler gauges. If you kept blowing out the RTV then it had to be bad (as you stated), so you're just trying to make it just a little bit better.

Just curious why did you stay with the R180 over an R200? I feel like the r180 may crumble to pieces when you hit boost. Also , holy fabrication thread. I love it.

Oh Morse knows me as the guy who keeps bringing him "rusty old datsuns". They know their stuff, I bring 90% of stuff I need welded there and Tim is a certified welder and has done work on sand rails to roll cages to seam welding. For a little incentive, I got everything for a turbo swap ( minus the long block and intake manifold) for $650, buying what I could in bulk. Defiantly possible for under $1000

Brofist Also as to the performance ECU and carbs, He could have meant going with Meagaquirt and EDIS to control the spark as Josh817 did. Although I doubt it. Highly.

Yes it could be the wires that come off the ignition switch/module. They may be fried or rusted. Pull that out and check all the soldering points for continuity.

Lol he's in The bay area so I bet he has to avoid the hills at all costs. I laughed when it said he could do a track day. Z's have been getting more and more popular with the "drift" kids who think old school is a Series 2 (DA's for those who know) integra. Z's have been getting hyped up way too much by this crowd. If it was just a little higher and a solid color I think I'd like it more. Not that I absolutely hate it.

Just curious what muffler shop did you go to? And if this problem persists I really think you should go with some headers. You've been fighting this demon for a while now. Also going with going turbo, the hardest part for me would be the electrical. You're trade should help you with that.

That sucks. But yeah my first AutoX experiences this year were definitely and that helped me keep coming out. The instructors are always friendly and love talking about how to get you faster.

You need to tell us the engine code or head code for that. Then engine code is on the intake/exhasut side towards the bottom of the block, under cylinder 3/4. Head code is on the spark plug side near the front of the head. http://www.xenons30.com/Engine.html If you have a N42 block and an N42/N47 head you probably 99% have dished pistons. There is a slight change they did a rebuild at some point and used flattops. If you have an F54 head and a P79 head you have a flattop engine.

At least it's running. And the rust doesn't look too bad. I'd check the underside before you buy. And its got white seats. That's always sweet. Good find for your location.

At first I was like "truck bed liner, wtf?" but it came out awesome.

Check the wheel show thread. I'm sure people are running them and have posted pics. Granted there are a **** ton of pages.

Do you have any camber? or just the toe

The "until it heats up" could mean its something to do with the cold start system. I'd check the cold start injector. Popping could be from the excess fuel being dumped by a leaky cold start injector. You're car dying is probably unrelated unless you haven't been driving it and aren't charging the battery. Get a multimeter and check the battery voltage cold, at idle and at 3k rpm to check if its charging.

Mmmm tweaked butterfly's. To everyone else reading this, mechanically inspect your carbs before install. It'll save you guys tons of time.

Blue stag had this exact problem a few months back. Search for it. There were a lot of good ideas in that thread.

You don't need brand name aluminum bushings. I bought the eBay ones for $80 and basically paid my friend to turn them down with the other set I didn't use.