BluDestiny

The relay probably took a crap, or it could be the combo switch. Did you hit a bump or something?

Poo poo to bleeding the system. I've always just primed it with the key in the on position for a bit to build up pressure. Then start it. Never had a problem.

It will mess with the turbo if your muffled system is restrictive enough. The problem with what you want to do is the limited space under a Z. You may be able to fit a glasspack in the tranny tunnel depending on how the cutout is positioned. Plus your car will need to be a tad higher if you run the side exit because you need to curve it under the frame rail depending on where you put it. Maybe an MS paint of how you'd run the system would help. Just find a pic of the underside of an s30.

If you want your AC and PS it would probably be easier to stick with an L motor. Once you swap to a V8 most people use that under dash AC system and I don't know what they do for the PS. More fab work in my opinion. I'd do a major tune up on the engine to get it running normally, then probably do some interior, then do paint. After that since you just want it stock for the most part you can look into finding a turbo swap and redoing the suspension ( assuming the suspension is ok right now).

If you look at his youtube vid in his sig ( the canyon one) he has massive spring travel. I think he wants them to be stiffer. Not exactly race conditions, but canyon carving (which can get pretty serious). The tires he has now outgrip his springs most likely.

Bluestag, you should PM burkeys now that he's on this forum, since he was the guy who was closing in on 200rwhp with SU's. He's a great guy and will answer any of your questions. You're likely going to lose power because of that auto trans. I've heard horror stories about how much they suck, but I've also heard how much they don't suck. Not sure what to believe on the internet these days lol.

Found em, not on ebay anymore http://www.z1motorsports.com/240sx/product_info.php?products_id=3892&osCsid=dtgi1fr9j51414q3vfn39a3bg7

Psh I ditched the AC and I moved to FL from CA. It really sucks though. I'd keep at least the rear bumper since you are more prone to getting rear ended and these bumpers can take a hit easily. The rear hatch is probably closer to 50lbs, but yeah like 30-35lbs is glass. Only real reason I kept glass is because it can take the weather. I've been told that Lexan would get scuffed and sun beat and probably only last around a year, especially on a street car. Yes my tire sizes were driven by looks mostly, but I have a spare set of 15x7 rims if I really need to switch back. The rims/tires I currently have have enough gripping power to help me keep up with the bmws during an autox The stock hood weighs a bunch, and a fiberglass hood is on my wishlist. I have a lightweight flywheel and a stage 1 exedy clutch, still haven't gone to the strip yet though. I could probably shed 100-120lbs easily if I went full lexan windows, just removed my rear bumper, and got a fiberglass hood. On top of that when I'm only using half a tank of gas I'm saving 60lbs versus a full tank.

s14 has a stiffer structure and is designed for less squat (at least that's what they say), and its like 1" wider. Use periods when you write please (I'm really not a grammer nazi). 2 of your sentences blurred together and confused the heck out of me for a bit.

This is so much better than your first post. I know my 260z was that brown, but it was already repainted blue when I got it. As for the sonic decal I'd just put a little vinyl stocker of him on the fender area where the Datsun logo is. I say fix all the rust first, since it will only get worse. Then fix the engine and drive it to the ground. Then work a little on suspension since I'm sure its worn out and then work on getting wheels and exterior stuff. Then you can look into engine swaps. But it's your car do it anyway you want. For $800 that's an awesome deal

If you want to drift cheap, weld your diff. Its not worth the money to get a KAAZ or quaife unit before you have a decent suspension set up. If you want a much more proper set up, graft a 240sx rear subframe into the ZX. The stock ZX subframe is a piece of poo to work with and has some limitations when lowering the car, such as increase toe that you can't get rid of without modifying the subframe, and even then its sketchy. Once you have the 240sx subframe you can easily buy any 240sx diff. Not saying you can't drift with the stock ZX subframe, it just isn't optimal by any means. Also as Purepontiackid found out, the stock steering angles will be your biggest limitation.

What kind of racing are you planning on doing that you absolutely need a 2 way? And what makes you think a 2 way is the best? A 2 way will act like a welded diff if the breakaway tq is too high. The subie diff is a VLSD and I know people at around 300hp that still haven't complained. Any normal LSD will be fine for a mix of street and road driving.

I feel like it would be less hassle to just have a separate exhaust system made axle back if I understand. Its like a 4ft pipe and it's not hard to jack up the rear of a car. Just get a Vband to connect them and it'll be a piece of cake. On my ZX I had a straight pipe all the way back to just in front of my rear subframe, I then had a Vband clamp used to I could detach the rear portion of my exhaust. I had another exhaust made that was just a pipe with no muffler at the end. It was loud as **** so I never really used it, but if I wanted to add a different muffler to it and compare it to the one I have I could. This portion of the muffler disconnects right in front of the rear subframe.

What suspension are you running bigdeezs? Also I'm pretty sure those aren't street tires, .

I did this to my 280zx. The engine will start up no problem but will idle like its gonna die at 500rpm for like 30 seconds. Then the cold start idle up circuit cuts out and it idles normally at around 750rpm. I removed the cold start injector and the AAR (idle up thingy) and plugged the rubber boot between the AFM and TB. Also threw away the cold start wiring plug. This is how the engine is in my car

Its the same as installing any LSD to an open diff. All it requires is you finding the correct part # and ordering it. They should supply you with a LSD that works with your side axles. I believe JohnC deals with OS giken and Quaife, but you'd have to contact him. I'm sure he would know someone that deals it if he doesn't. I would not do it myself if I was paying $1200 for a new unit though, I'd bring it somewhere that knows what they are doing and if it blows up from a bad install I can come back to them. But again, the cheapest way is to find a Subie STI diff for like $500-600 on http://forums.nasioc.com/ in the for sale section, buy the axles for $500, and literally bolt it all together. I found a full locking diff at a machine shop that works on Datsuns for $250 that still needs to be installed in my 4.11 r180 and that will work with the subie side axles (I hope, I got to test fit them at Betamotorsports) and I hope to be using that, although if it doens't work or is way too harsh I'll go with the subie diff.

205's will have a square look, with vertical sidewalls. 225's will bulge out a little. I prefer the vertical walls as they give better cornering

The innards of an R160 will not fit in an R180. If your car currently has an R180 in it, the easiest route is to get Betamotorsports R180 Subie side axles. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=11 These allow you to use an R180 out of a newer Subaru STI directly. If you're going that route though you may even want to consider getting a KAAZ unit and having it installed in your current diff.

Lol that's why it's called a Limited slip dif.

No it was the base models. My 80 didn't have a rear wiper. It was hard to find a rear hatch without one. I was about to go as far as finding a hatch with a wiper, removing the glass to weld up the wiper and squirter hole and replacing the glass with lexan. That would have sucked though.

PM J240ZTurbo, He has a ton of spare s130 parts and last time I met with him he had some fenders. He's in tampa though and charges fair prices. I'm just spoiled and used to finding stuff in the SoCal junkyards.

Hi everyone, I just bought a 240sx a month ago and have been using it as a daily since it's getting hot in FL. For the most part its in great shape. 108k miles I hope, but there are a few spots on the underside that give me suspicions of an accident, on top of that it has over spray on the AC condensor so I know at least the front has been repainted, but That could be just from regular fading. So if anyone can run me a carfax out of the goodness of your heart, or maybe someone local I can buy a six pack for I'd much appreciate it. I didn't know they cost money. Vehicle:1993 NISSAN 240SX/SE VIN:JN1MS36P1PW310914

240sx's like positive offset. The stock 15x6 wheels are +40 offset. When you get to wider rims it gets lower, but its still probably like +10 to +15. For reference just browse through a few of these threads, its the Zilvia-for sale- wheels and tires section. Click on a few of the wider rims and check out what offsets they tend to run http://zilvia.net/f/wheels-tires/

I'm sure he meant stock for stock. Any Z putting out that much is not stock.