BluDestiny

Have you been driving it or just starting it on jack stands? And how old is the gas? I know you too your time with the swap so it could be as simple as bad gas, hopefully.id also double check all electrical connections and anything you needed to splice to get it running.

How much boost/hp are you planning on running eventually is the real question lol. With what you want, I actually think the stock turbo may be the limiting factor. You can easily get away with that with the 370cc injectors, and if you want something a little better, go with the 440cc injectors. It will leave room for improvement down the road. I'd also go with a fuel rail to make it look nice, but that's preference. You don't really need a p90 head, unless you want to build one on the side. I've only heard of one horror story of the p79 exhaust liners breaking of and detroying the turbo ( on a converted car). An intercooler is an intercooler. I would prefer mishimoto sine they have a great warranty. I'm currently still wondering if I want to use hardlines to run my oil lines or fab some SS braided ones. You should probably install a turbo oil pump, since you have the engine out of the car ( I assume) and I'm not sure if you need the Turbo dizzy or not. It is different from the NA dizzy, but with MS I don't know. And like stated above you need to tap your oil pan for an oil return.

I had to go through 3 starters before I got one that worked. You are correct saying that if you jumped the started it should have turned over the engine, if you jumped it correctly.

If you plug that hole in the side of the block you will blow all you're seals because of the crankcase pressure. Just pull out you're old one and gently tap it into the new engine. Don't worry about the little capped off side hose, just leave it like that. That notched retainer thing is the lash pad as stated above, and it was probably running like crap because you were only firing on 5 cylinders. If you revved the crap out of it while it was off you could have potentially bleached a cylinder by flooding it with gas that never got combusted. That lash pad popping off could be a sign of something worse. When I got my friends ZX running after sitting for 5 years it ran fine for a week, then when we filled up the tank with fresh gas it knocked some goo/crud in the tank loose which clogged up everything and the headdropped a valve and what you experienced happened, a lash pad popped off and started to rattly like crazy. It completely wrecked the valvetrain and we ended up sourcing a new head to rebuild. Since you already have a new engine just swap it in, get the car running and then autopsy the old motor later.

Oil pressure on S30's will almost always read low, until its revved past 1500rpm. Do a compression test also. I may also be able to lend a hand before you head to the shop. I have a 280zx, but all the EFI principles are the same. The shop owner is ....eccentric. There are two, Sil and Juan. If you want you could even give them a call and chat up what could possible be wrong.

There are a few guy in Holly hill that were nissan techs in the late 70's early 80's. Amor tech on hand ave, right off of ridgewood. Amor tech 268 Hand Ave Ormond Beach, FL 32174 (7567) 386-672-6307 Pull out the fuel rail along with injectors and try and start it and see if the injectors squirt. As for the temp gauge maxed out, that means the wire is grounding on something. Could be a clue, or just a corroded to hell temp gauge.

I was running 2 cheap glass filters that you buy at autozone. One near the tank, and another right before the fuel rail. I don't recommend them though since both of mine leaked at one point or another and I had to change them. Each fuel pump is wired differently, so wire it per the instructions that came with it. I was running a cheap pepboys low pressure carb fuel pump, with a cheap regulator set to 4psi. You will be fine with your return line. I didn't modify anything in my fuel system, all the cheap stuff that I listed was already on it when I got the car. It worked for my Su's for a couple years and worked fine for my webers. My honest opinion: You're overthinking it. Which is good and bad. When I did it, I bought a complete set of carbs manifold to air filters for $600 and basically spent 2 hours removing my SU's and cast ex mani, then replacing it with a set of headers and my triple webers. I didn't change anything else. It ran, but not really that well, turned out the carbs were all jetted differently and 2 of them had holes in the floats. After I got them rebuilt it ran decent. My advice, put in the fuel pump and filter and sort your fuel system out now with your SU's that you know are good, so you don't go blaming the carbs. You look like you have/know everything that need.

Where in FL are you?

This site makes me want to slap 90% of people on Zilvia. I ask a technical questions and first thing people ask is "are you drifting it?" Hybridz, it's just better

Those look like generic coilover threaded tubes and some springs. I'd at least buy some ground control coilover tubes/springs.

1. Most people who are doing bigger brakes get bigger tires because the performance aspect. For the 14" I would just ditch them and go with the Turbo 15" rims if you want a stock look, and then use another pair of 15's and mount summer/track tires on those. You can get a decent set of 15" tires for the practically the same price as the 14" tires. 2. The rotor will fit, but like you said trying to find a caliper that will fit is the hard part. You'd need some aftermarket caliper like the willwood ones you linked, but I'm not sure if they will clear it. 3. You may need to have one made at a local machine shop for you. You may want to check these kits out, from Arizona Zcar if you haven't already. It says that with the 12.2 in rotor, a 15" rim is required. Obviously doesn't take into account backspacing or the inside wheel face, but you get the picture. http://arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html The front 12.2 in rotor looks like the one you linked.

Your tranny should be fine, I believe TimZ posed that his tranny just gave up around 350hp/tq. If you want a little bit stouter tranny, you can always do the 240sx tranny swap. It has identical gear ratios, can be had for practically nothing if you're looking around, and you can put a short throw shifter kit in it. You'd need your driveshaft shortened by 2" give or take, and will need to machine the L28 tranny bell housing. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html

In my opinion its easier to bolt a radiator to a car and fabricate coolant hoses then have easy coolant hoses and fabricate radiator mounts. I would buy one that bolts into your car, then try and find some hoses that fit. Or chop up some hoses and run aluminum piping to make it work. Or just run some flex heater hose.

A KA24DE makes almost identical hp/tq numbers as an L28 and are a dime a dozen each, plus they take well to moderate boost levels. Regarding the Rb series and SR series, I know enough people that are running them in S13's and have "passed" smog through a "friend". You could probably get away with it, but you'd need to register and smog the car first, then every 2 years worry about having to do it illegally again.

First of all, tokico makes a set of struts for our 280zx's so you don't really need to use the S13 ones. He used struts from a 240sx s13, not an s30. All s30 shocks are inserts, so they won't even bolt to the rear, I don't know what you're talking about using 280z struts. That's complete BS about needing stiffer aftermarket springs for the 2+2, although I had my 2+2 gutted so it weighted 2600lbs. The stock factory springs are stiffer, but when you go aftermarket they are much stiffer than stock anyway. You will get squat with the tokico spring and strut setup, it just plain isn't stiff enough and the rear suspension is designed like that. I still get some with some S13 6k shock/springs in the rear of my car, but very little compared to the tokico stuff. Coilovers will not limit how big your brakes can be. You're rim size will. They way I did my coilovers, similar to Mightymaxx, it uses the same control arm and strut tube, just cut, so it doesn't change any dimensions. About halfway down in my build thread you'll see how I did my front coilovers. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103629-base-model-280zx-project/ And my rears: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99716-s13-rear-coilovers-in-my-280zx/

I just had this problem withmy ZX. It started fine 6 months ago, then a few months ago I'd have to wiggle it back and forth to start it, and last week it would take 5 min of wiggling to start it. Its probably the ignition switch, if the battery, coil, wiring and starter are good. I replaced the ignition switch and it starts first try every time now. Did it in front of autozone in 30min http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Switch/1980-Nissan-Datsun-280ZX/_/N-im0lpZ9n859?itemIdentifier=18912_0_0_

Seems to work with google chrome, I'm not having any problems

Completely agree with Logr. Depends on the mounting position, which tranny you're using (KA and SR are different lengths I believe) and what diff you have. You basically set the distance. If you're using a kit, like Mckinney, I believe they can answer your question and they may even supply a driveshaft. Another route is to just have it towed to a driveshaft shop and let them make you a new one and set up the angles and everything.

I got an extra quart of oil cause my dipstick was only showing it at half. One quart put it at full. Also took it on a nice 40 min drove on the freeway to burn off old gas.

Its an r200, but we have no way of verifying the ratio without the stamp on the ring gear.

Do you have any pics of the supra?

Yeah those fans are a big draw, I even have this problem when I have everything on on my ZX (HID's, Blower fan on full, dual lectric fans, stereo system) and I am using a "turbo" alternator. I really think its still the 60amp model that autozone just has the same part number for but I don't have a multimeter to check.

That looks like tire cupping. Just google search images and you can see similar wear patterns. I found this while looking: Cupping: this bumpy or scalloped tread pattern results from the tire dribbling up and down as it rolls down the road. A severely unbalanced wheel can be the culprit, but worn-out shocks are more likely. There are other causes also

Forgetting the cold start settings are you sure you're fuel system isn't bleeding off pressure through a small leak somewhere? Or are you positive this is a tune problem? and if you are are you running a cold start injector and just don't have it working properly?

Can you take a picture? I think there isn't a switch there, just a flat piece. My 260z didn't have a switch there, but the PO before me ended up installing an AC unit, and the switch was there and I installed 2 electric fans that I activated with a switch. Both of those switches were in the spot I think you're talking about