BluDestiny

hahahahah. only the germans

Cut along the body lines, and cut straight. All the way from the door to the taillight panel. This is more a of a welding/fabrication post.

It's up for $13000 on craigslist. I would have put it at at $11000

I have rear kei office coils, so I want to find some fronts, then after I weld them on, if I don't like it I'll move up to stances. Main concern is having to get another pair of front spindles to chop, but they are plentiful and cheap here in the Cali junkyards. Probably going to do the s13 solid bushings. I was considering having a pair CNC'd. So instead of making the plates like in the writeup you just hacked off some from a z31 for the toe adjustment and turned them 90 degrees? and welded them in place on the s130 subframe?

Maybe a stuck thermostat? MY friends honda was having the same problem, heating up when it was moving, but at idle it would drop down to normal. Changed the thermostat and no more problem. If it was a blown headgasket you'd be losing coolant one way or another(into oil, or burning it hence the spark plugs).

you can have you're cam reground to those specs. Costs less and will last longer. You're getting pinging on stock compression?

Just bring the N42 to a machine shop and have them clean and test it. Then have them do a 5 angle valve job and put in hardened seats since it probably has bronze seats. Throw in a Cam and some porting and you got a decent head to play with. A cam can make better use of that compression also.

Ok so the front and rear subframes are out and ready to be cleaned and powdercoated. I'm now trying to source all find someone that has steering rack bushings for a 280zx with manual steering. No one seems to make them and motorsport auto only has rubber bushings for the PS models. anyway my bushing list: front control arms rear control arms z31 subframe bushings (I'll trim to fit) New boots for the steering rack, ABS steering coupler Also getting Technotoytunning TC rods and Bump steer spacers Going to be running s13 coilovers, so I don't need the bumpstops. Anything I missed?

You are my hero. A dedicated RB swap installation into an s130

All fenders are the same 70-78. On one of my headlight buckets, when I was trying to remove it I broke the studs that attach it to the fender, Had to drill (metal bucket) them out and replace them with a really small bolts, but it holds up fine. It's hard to get metal fenders in decent shape. Hood is not as hard to find, although a pristine example will be few and far. Just search craigslist, ebay, for sale sections on here, zcar and classicz

kamikaze, The swap is illegal unless it is barred. Hence you get popped with a V8 in a car that is doesn't belong in, you get to visit the ref. I did leave a lot of info out, but it's all here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90059-more-california-smog-info/page__p__854361__hl__%2Bsmog+%2Blaws__fromsearch__1#entry854361 I made that comment under the contention that people that have the "oh it doesn't need to get tested, so I can throw whatever in and no one will care" attitude. It doesn't get tested, but it does need to be compliant.

I don't think the subframe pieces will fit in the $200 cabinet. It would be sweet though. Also I've heard that soda blasting is better and has less clean up. you jsut have baking soda crap all over the place. but from what I'm reading, soda might not be able to cut through the thick paint on the subframe

Hey everyone, Before I get my new ZX running I want to tear down the suspension and subframe pieces to clean them and make them look all purty and shiny. I'm also doing this becasue I'm getting an awesome deal on powdercoating from my friends motorcycle shop. He told me though that the stripping is going to be the worst, and will cost way more than the powdercoating itself. So I'm thinking of investing in a soda blaster since I could also use it for the interior and paint. If that doesn't work then soaking everything in a barrel of degreaser and then sending them somewhere to get sand blasted is my next option. The little brackets, front control arms and rear trailing arms shouldn't be a problem since they are sorta small, but the actual crossmember is probably going to suck since it's so long. For anyone that has cleaned and powdercoated this kind of stuff, what did you do? how did it turn out?

You can have custom seat brackets made by these guys (http://www.wedgeengineering.net) takes some time, but if they mess up, you can return it free of charge and they will make you a new one. Cost me about $100 per bracket, had them made for my my ZX and 260z. Mine were made to use sparco sliders

The Grids. In bronze. Bronze looks good on orange

you can make 400 on a stock cam, the porting is where the magic happens.

maybe they just didn't put the moldings back in. because they are a pain to put in.

holy cow that was a pretty fast swap.

Do a restomod, full arizona Zcar track pack suspension, with an rb20, stripped interior, with some buckets, custom dash panel and autometer guages

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/85980-jegs-drag-style-roll-cage-installed/page__p__815294__hl__%2B+%2Bjegs+%2Broll+%2Bbar+%2B__fromsearch__1#entry815294

I'm doing it to a 79 zx, although I'm only int he planning stage. The early z'z are light and here in california you don't need a smog test if it's pre-75. That still makes the swap illegal. I chose the 79 becasue the structure is more solid, it can be made almost as light, and I was planning on getting it BAR legal anyway. Also I just smashed up my 280zx so I wanted a replacement shell.

What are you using to remove it? media blaster? me and a friend are thinking about going half and half on a soda blaster to basically do this to several of our cars

a complete sticky with cages for each model would be pretty cool. maybe a link to rule books from different sanctioning bodies, or just general do's and don'ts of cages.

that is a pretty cool kit, might be worth it if you could remove and make molds of the kit