NewZed

To be clear - there will be a few wires that are different. You'll have to figure them out. But the basics, like the AFM, injectors, fuel rail, etc. will all fit.

You never really asked a question, but the EFI system should work fine on your engine. It should bolt and plug right in. Make sure you get the EFI/pump relay from under the dash, or make sure that your 77 EFI relay is still there. The EFI harness is essentially a stand alone harness with just a few connections to the main harness.

Your real question might be "will the four hole R200 pinion companion flange swap with the six hole R230 pinion companion flange?". I'm guessing.

R230 Final Drive and Propeller Shaft Companion Flange 1996 300ZX

Nissan calls the differential the "Final Drive".

I see now. Seems simple enough though, They're called companion flanges, because they have companions. Get the propeller shaft that goes with the diff.

Which block? http://theshopmag.com/features/499-mopar-build-part-1 There's a reference somewhere on the site to a 440 in a Z. BRAAP's dad I believe. Actually close to you in Sandy. It was a while ago though. Get ready to spend.

Lots of good information in the FSM's is you can't get an answer here. Most consider the propeller shaft flange to be the "pinion" flange. You seem to be talking about the side shafts. Nissan used both 5 and 6 bolt flanges for the short-nose R200. They might have done the same for the R230. Check the PD chapters. And note that they had both R200 and R230 as options for some model years. Also, the R230 is noticeably more massive than the R200. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

You might break some bolts off in the head, or in the thermostat housing itself. Be careful and try to avoid that. The bolts tend to rust in their holes from slight coolant leakage over the miles and get stuck tight. I'd run the engine and get it nice and warm, then try to ease the bolts out. A hot head and housing will expand the holes and give you the best shot.

I'll plug JMortensen's past work. Information is so easy to find these days that people don't look for it anymore. Very ironic. Not far down the first post - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

A welded diff is pretty obvious, from what I've read. The rear wheels chirp when turning, chattery chirpy turns at low speed. Handles weird, probably understeers. How did he weld the diff mount? That's going to be noisy. Check out the RTz-style mount from Technoversion.

Rockauto.com. Maybe even your local auto parts store, or Nissan dealer. Just search tension rod bushing on Google and see what you find.

It won't hold up as well as an R200. And the spinning tire insurance policy will still wear the differential out eventually, since there will be a lot of one-wheel spinning. Your system is unbalanced. Don't forget about the diff mount problem also. You'll probably tear it first, before any of those other problems happen. Nickels and dimes. Might as well sit down, list out the parts, and do the math on where you want to end up.

Do not drop anything. Worst case, use a dead blow or rubber mallet to lightly tap things in to place. What does this mean "bolt back on right"? There might be a clue there. What shape is it in now? The case is almost on or it's disassembled? What do you see? More clues - who is "they"? Who is "her"? Describing the situation is 90% of the battle.

What part of America? If you're close I could drive by and throw one at you. If you're far, probably not.

Doesn't seem to be an engine problem if the above is true. He just doesn't want to do EFI. Carry on...

GM used to be known for interchangeable parts. Change the motor mounts and you could put almost any GM engine you wanted in any GM car. Wouldn't be a surprise if the LS swap kit worked for the V6, since they're both factory options for the Camaro.

Forgot about this guy. He seems to be coming in on the low end of price and people seem happy with the products. Don't know who he is, just see him filling up his product portfolio. One example. He has a whole bunch of other products. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123612-new-part-chromoly-axle-companion-flange-to-930cv/ https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=axle

Torque, traction, and shock loads damage the drivetrain. Not just the available numbers. You can't even buy a set of adapters for half of $850. But Chequered Flag Joe took over MM's business and makes adapters and shafts if you do it anyway. You'll have to call him his web site is out of date. Copied some links to other options. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119708-modern-motorsports-240sx-rear-caliper-brackets/ http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun-510-240z-c-v-conversion-kit-with-108mm-flanges http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123305-need-some-opinions-on-rear-half-shaft-route-with-r200-vlsd/ Why don't you just buy another ECM and send that one in for tuning? Then swap it in when it gets back. They're wrecking yard products, right? $40?

Some, maybe all, of the aftermarket new CV axles use standardized joints and center axles, with different ends to match the applications. So they won't combine with a Nissan axle to make a hybrid axle. Beware. Remanufactured axles should work, but even those might be reman aftermarket. Better examine closely before buying. Check the axle manufacturer web sites and some will describe the details.

cgsheen sells a kit. He must be modest. Google the "garage" in his sig.

Make a list of the things you read about in your shit load and post it up. People can give the pros and cons of each. There are basically two ways to go - lowering springs, or "coil-over" kits. Coil-overs offer adjustable ride height, with lowering springs you get what ever they give you (like what you have now). Coil-overs are best for fine-tuning ride height.

Back to the original question. You mentioned a MAF(Sensor) and O2 sensor. Those two things do not serve the same function, one is quantity and one is air-fuel ratio. One is before the combustion process, one is after. One is on the intake system, one is on the exhaust. You're in an interesting spot, knowledge-wise. You write like you know, but hopefully, (for you) you don't spend the same way. You should spend more time learning before you spend more money.

The springs aren't stock size, whatever they are. They're not preloaded like the stock length factory springs would be, thye're hanging free with the car lifted. They've been painted orange so hard to tell what they are. Stock is black, Tokicos are red, MSA's are blue...etc. Scratch the orange and see what's underneath. Look at the end of the spring coil to see if it's a clean cut, pinched off like a factory cut, or a hack job. You could probably get set of stock springs, or lowering springs, and a set of new KYB shocks and be better off. You also have anti-sway bars front and back, which will firm up the ride. I don't know a lot about how to mess with those.

Found a picture from the Arizona Z Car site. Lot of images though, don't click unless you have time. Grabbed a picture. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars.html