NewZed

I was just pointing some things out. If the moderators were disturbed they would have moved your thread. So, are you saying that, as of right now, somebody can buy one of these for $700? The development work is done? One buyer and a diff for the R200 happens? Or one buyer and development starts? Is there a minimum number of buyers required to get things started?. Just trying to get a clear picture. The details aren't there.

You're not going to have 6 injectors go bad at the same time. It's not your injectors. Check for power to the injectors first. Does the tachometer work? Is the resistor in place on the blue wire to the tach? Is there power to the ECU? Check for power to the places that need power. The EFI (injection) system is separate from the ignition system, but it does use the coil negative terminal to determine when to inject. Search on "Pin 1". Don't forget to confirm power to the fuel pump also. There's a fuel pump control relay on the 78's that uses one of two possible signals to keep power on. Described in Engine Fuel chapter, I believe. Along with a bunch of tests. Also, try to keep your logic straight. You're mixing some things up that just can't be, like engine starting with no spark. Only diesels do that. "it would fire, then immediately die. No matter how many times I tried, same thing fire then die almost as soon as it fired off. So I ran back through spark,fuel and air. I wasn't getting any spark from the coil. "

I think that johnc might be letting you go on your merry way, since he gave you the clues and you didn't really use them. Here's a link to what he was talking about in Post #5. Hope you don't mind John. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670 Go down to March 5, 2014. People shorten their half-shafts when they put the R200 in a 240Z. But the 280Z's were designed for the R200.

Actually, it could be a hybrid engine. Some people think the L24 crank with L28 bore makes for better high RPM performance. Back to measuring stroke. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/41844-long-short-stroke.html Post #4. And here. He's built several. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39741-new-engine/ I'm just throwing ideas out there.

P30 is a red herring....

Bore is easy. 83 or 86 mm. Even if you got an L24 with a P79 head you might be okay if no valves have hit on the way by the edge.

I don't know the block code on the Maxima L24's. Probably the same as the ZX's, it's just a block, bored to size. L24E with a P79 head? I don't know L24 cranks either. Measure the stroke and you'll know more if nobody posts in the mean time. Measure the bore too.

Maybe it's a Maxima L24E engine - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26115-help-crankshaft-part-n%C2%BA/

This is why the FSM is useful. There's a troubleshooting chart in most of the chapters. One of your basic problems here though is that you're not giving any specific information. "Checked" means different things to different people. You might just be wiggling a wire. At least check, by measuring, voltage at the coil with the key on. Find the important relays and listen for action when you turn the key on. Stuff like that. One click then nothing is typical of dirty battery cable connections. And you can jump the solenoid with the key off, so that fact alone doesn't tell much. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Bad fuel? It happens. You forgot to mention your age and ethnicity/nationality.

If they were "all good" the engine would start. Therefore, at least one is not good. The quick test for EFI is starting fluid. If the engine starts, there's a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't, probably a spark problem, Assuming nothing major, like holes in pistons. Typically, a random number things will be examined in random order until something is found, Best to test a specific set of things in a specific order.

The Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM will explain why you don't hear the fuel pump. And a whole bunch of other stuff too. "Looking" at electrical stuff is not a good way to determine quality. ...clue...battery cable connections...multimeter...Engine Electrical...

There's a problem-solving principle known as "first principles". Go to the basics. Spark, fuel, timing, etc. Check for spark. Then get all Boolean on it.

I would use a 280ZX oil pan.

Pop that cap off. This is like guessing horse teeth.

There are two functions combined in the alternator - production and regulation. You might have a regulator problem. Could be shorting.

I think that carb is too big for the engine. The typical carb is the 390 CFM Holley. Might be better off to get the right size and tune it for the engine. Might save you a lot of time.

One of the first thing many people would do with a problem like yours is to measure fuel pressure while the problem is happening. There are many threads describing having a fuel pressure gauge attached while driving. Proper fuel pressure is critical to proper operation for any fuel injection system. It affects how much fuel is injected. You could save a lot of money by more reading. The injectors aren't going to stop working while driving then fix themselves when things cool down. Neither is the AFM. Or the coolant temperature sensor. And the cold start valve is just another injector that only gets power when the starter is engaged and the engine is cold. You've narrowed the problem down to parts that you haven't replaced, not potential causes. Odds are high that it's your fuel pump. A measurement would confirm a pressure problem. And your fuel pump should'r run when the key is on unless the engine is also running.

That's a lot of carburetor for an L24. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/carburetors/performer.shtml http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/?query=1405&submit=search The manual says no more than 6 psi - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/install/1000/1405_manual.pdf Could just be a bad needle and seat or a sunk float.

That's not why you said you were removing the head. I went with what you wrote. Work on your writing skills. The last two statements are ironic. Brand of timing chain set would be a little detail, considering the scope of your project. You got three answers already anyway.

Why take the head off to fix the threads of some valve cover bolt holes? Makes no sense.

Not quite. You'll be moving the module away from the distributor. For the ZX the two wires from the VR are connected internally, behind the module, where you don't see them. They're still red and green though. Just connect red to red and green to green and make sure that the module is grounded. Grounding of the module body is key, that's where the coil current goes.

You'll do a lot of work for not much benefit. Probably seemed like a good idea and worth doing once, but most people seem to end up with problems. Here's one. Notice that the "benefits" are reliability and removal of the AFM restriction. A stock 280Z EFI system is reliable though, and the AFM is not the big restriction on an NA engine. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49087-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide-1981-supplement/

There are always mounting issues. There's a good thread on another forum by a guy who mounted an HEI module inside the box that the original 280Z module was in. All of the wires are already there and it's protected from the elements. You could do the same with the ZX module.

Yes it is, Two wires to the VR, two wires to the coil, and a good ground circuit.. Not sure what you mean with the "mounting issues". A GM HEI module would be the same amount of work though.