Jump to content
HybridZ

NewZed

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6680

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    70

 Content Type 

Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    It says "VISCOUS LSD" on the orange sticker. And it's obviously a short nose. Looks like cheap on the cheap. I think that later 300ZX's, like 1990 on, came with short noses. Still a common, inexpensive diff that is not a bolt-in for a Z.
  2. NewZed
    I gave you the wrong link but it looks like you found the right section anyway. This chapter is what you want though - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/260z/1974/EE%20Engine%20Electrical.pdf
  3. NewZed
    Thanks for that. The one thing that pops right out is no zinc additive for the cam break-in. Is that correct? I've never used a zinc additive on my old already broken-in engines and never had a problem. But the need for zinc during the first few thousand (million?) revolutions of raw steel on raw steel seems to be clear.
  4. NewZed
    The batter(y) goes to the alternator and the alternator goes to the wiring harness which goes to the black cylinder which is the ignitor correct? - No, this is wrong, in many ways. Too many black cylinders in the engine bay to really know which one you're talking about. The black cylinder is probably your coil. The other stuff doesn't make any sense since you keep talking about an "ignitor" and your 260Z shouldn't have one. You're going to have to find a full-size computer and open up the FSM if you want to make any progress. The phone screen isn't going to get it done. There are drawings of the coil, so you'll know what that black cylinder is. At least put the phone to good use and take a picture.
  5. NewZed
    Too many pages for me but maybe somebody could summarize the five setups. Rockers arms, cam brand and type (new or regrind), break-in oil, etc. The stuff that matters. They're not all the same type of rocker arms and cam are they?
  6. NewZed
    Looks rich. You haven't added any details on the engine settings. " I've retarded the timing, messed with the afm, changed sparkplugs, adjusted the air bypass, and a couple of other things. " The statement above doesn't tell anyone anything. Numbers matter. Put everything back to stock including timing, Initial timing is important for idle. Verify that your timing advance mechanisms work. Advance is important for the load test. Measure timing with a light, not by ear or butt dyno. There are other tuning tips for passing emissions tests. But you need a good starting point. You didn't say if you get any retests or if you'll be testing at a shop before you go back to the state.
  7. NewZed
    This is not how you test for spark. Besides the fact that for a stock 260Z electronic ignition the coil is not connected to the distributor. No easy fixes. Cars is hard. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
  8. NewZed
    260Z's came with electronic ignition. Check the FSM. Shouldn't be any rust at all in the cap. Maybe on the distributor parts. Odds are though that you misplaced a wire. Doube check the wiring. Is "yo" really that hard to type in? Really?
  9. NewZed
    Have you confirmed spark?
  10. NewZed

    Cockpit Heat

    NewZed replied to Jibarra's topic in Interior

    The engine gets hot,the engine bay gets hot. Air passes through the engine bay after removing heat from the radiator. "Air Conditioner" is a reference to the chapter in the Factory Service manuals. Drawings are there. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ The water cock is a valve that controls water flow through the heater core. Most likely location is between the hot water source and the heater core. Water hoses and control cables would be attached to it. Please don't ask where the hot water comes from. My car came with a bent control wire to the water cock. They get stuck, people push on the lever, the wire bends, the valve gets stuck open. Stick your head up under the passenger dash and see what moves when you push the heat control lever.
  11. NewZed

    Cockpit Heat

    NewZed replied to Jibarra's topic in Interior

    How about the heater core? Check your water cock, it might be stuck open. Operation is described in Air Conditioner.
  12. NewZed
    How close are you? Post some numbers. Details on what's being tested also. I live in Oregon and they only test idle. How many retests do you get? I can roll through the DEQ line every hour for free if I want, until I get things right and pass. A lean miss will put you over, as will a too-rich mixture. Most old 280Z's run lean, and can benefit from a little extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit. You said it doesn't have a catalytic converter. Is it supposed to? Usually that's an immediate visual fail. Your post is generally vague. Add details.
  13. NewZed
    There's no functional reason to use that intake. Somebody has traded real performance for perceived performance. It will run worse but look faster. You didn't get my point on the turbo injectors. Your stock ECU is programmed for the flow rate of NA injectors. The higher flow rate of the turbo injectors will add too much fuel and you'll be enveloped in raw gas fumes, if the engine even stays running.
  14. NewZed
    The 240SX throttle body will be a bigger hole feeding the same 6 small holes. For the same change in throttle blade angle you'll get a larger change in aperture, giving the feel of more power but it won't be real.
  15. NewZed
    Relative to what you need to know to get your engine running right, yes, the question above is "dumb". You need to learn the basics of how a typical engine works. Your lucky yours hasn't self-destructed yet, if it's not already damaged. You mentioned stuff that's bolted on but haven't even said what your timing is set to, initial, plus vacuum and centrifugal advance totals. You'll need to understand it anyway if you get the MSD unit. Many of us have damaged many parts, from your current knowledge level. Better to read a lot more and get a cheaper education. It might seem backward but the more primitive your engine management system is the more you need to know to get it to work right. The only "improvement" to your stock system is the FMU and all it does is add more fuel than stock based on manifold pressure (aka "vacuum), depending on how it's set up. You're in the Stone Age.
  16. NewZed
    Time is your problem on the turbo injectors. They flow more fuel for the same amount of time.
  17. NewZed
    Cheapest Haltech is $854 - http://store.haltech.com/usastore/haltech-universal-ecu-kits/sprint.html DIYAutotune is a real company and Matt Cramer seems to do much more than many. Haven't seen any Haltech reps on the forum.
  18. NewZed
    Big picture-wise, I wouldn't be surprised if Nissan used the K in the Maxima and the ZX. M stands for Maxima, a fairly plain passenger car with a 2.4 liter L motor. 1980's era, when gas mileage and emissions were king. Overall, you have an L28E, that will push that Z car about the same as all of the other stock engine options. You just need to decide if you want something to drive while you're researching, and building, that real performance engine.
  19. NewZed
    Sounds reasonable. I'm not sure you can start a group buy with out a price and a description of what's delivered. It's in the forum rules somewhere. You can start a poll or survey though, of who might be interested, what they want, and what they might pay.
  20. NewZed
    The K stamp has been reported before. Apparently it's a stock Nissan cam grind that just didn't make the internet lists. It's looking like you have a stock later ZX motor. Were I you I would at least bolt up the transmission and starter and spin it while you have the parts out. How far you tear it down to check it depends on how confident you feel about it, and your skills in taking things apart and putting them back together. Worst case, you install it and find out it's damaged. Or you tear it down while it's out and find out it's undamaged. It's a decision. Good luck. Your N42 exhaust manifold should work with the P79 head. The exhaust liners shoot inside the dimensions of the manifold.
  21. NewZed
    Look at the very back of the cam for a letter or some stamped numbers. It looks like a stock cam, by the size of the base circle, although I've only seen a few. It might just be a stock motor with some "performance" rebuild parts. The headers might be considered performance parts. Or the guy just spun (span?, spinned?) a story about a stock motor. Regardless, if it runs well it might be a fair deal, considering the difficulty of getting motors in your area. Not a big difference between the two heads unless you port them, From what I've read. Hardly worth a swap. If the P79/F54 engine looks in good shape, put it in and drive. You can always swap heads later.
  22. NewZed
    Didn't mean to divert your thread. But you have zero posts and your writing style is kind of like the style on the MFactory web site. If you want to get a group buy going, it would probably help you to show how this is different from the OBX, since it looks very similar. $300-400 less than Quaife is still more expensive than OBX, I believe (don't have the numbers). Share your correspondence with MFactory for a start. Always good to have options and if they can get in the game with a bolt-in product, rather than one that requires buying another party's modification package (the improved washers for the OBX), they would have an advantage.
  23. NewZed
    If they're the same length the higher rate goes on the back. One quick way to figure things out. Put a heavy object on each spring, the one that gets shortest goes up front. Notice also that the difference is only 1/2", in your picture. That's F versus E on the gas gauge. Averages out to level rocker panels, which may be the way they were designed.
  24. NewZed
    A Nissan Service Bulletin that I have says that's a ZX NA ECU. Lots of options on control systems, but most would say the stock ZXT system is hardly worth putting back together, from scratch. In other words, if you're going to figure out a bunch of wiring you might as well figure out something newer. Something to consider since it looks like you don't even have a turbo ECU.
  25. NewZed
    Off-topic, I just thought the advice/info below from their web site was funny. "Gee wiz, one of my wheels is spinning. Good thing I know enough to tap my brake pedal." A common misconception is that a Torsen-Style Differential is useless under a no-load situation (e.g One wheel in the air). Thismyth has been further perpetuated by our competitors of whom have limited understanding of how a Torsen-Style LSD functions. This no-load situation does not apply to 90% of users. For the other 10%, there is a simple solution to the problem that our competitors will not tell you; simply tap your brake pedal. Isn't the design the same as the OBX?
×
×
  • Create New...