NewZed

Focus on function and specifications. The 6BTM outputs a 12 volt square wave (open MSD6 BTM instructions below), designed to run tachometers or other "RPM-activated devices". Make sure that Pin 24 is okay to use a 12 volt square wave and you're probably fine. There are many ways to get the same thing done. The guy who wrote the instructions above was using an HEI module so didn't need the tach output from the MSD unit. He probably could have used it though and been fine. He "over-commented" when he said that the yellow wire was "tachometer only". Megasquirt is not plug and play. Some electronics odds and ends knowledge is required. It's easy to get lost if you don't have some background. http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6462_-_MSD_6-BTM_Boost_Timing_Master.aspx

These articles probably contain enough to get it done. Think in terms of function, rather than wires and wire colors and you can probably figure it out. Many cars use the same types of ignition systems, throttle body switches, etc. so the knowledge translates. If you use a distributor it's even simpler. Just get a proper signal from the coil to the MS ECU. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_install_writeups.htm

Could be the ignition module. They get hot and go bad, cool down and fix themselves. You didn't say when or why you replaced all of those parts so no way to make a cause-effect assumption. I copied the other stuff just for the amusement.

The guy who knows already said yes. We all can see all of the threads, no need to keep asking the same question everywhere.

There are "bump stops" on the strut shock shaft. If the car is lowered and the shocks toasted, "slamming" could happen. The front struts have a bearing inside the insulator so the strut can twist. The rears don't. Here's some pictures and names - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/FrontSuspension/tabid/1729/Default.aspx http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

Windows Media Player on Windows 7 too. Upside down. No option to flip. Quicktime plays it correctly. Looks like one of those Apple versus Microsoft battles. https://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/

If you don't know how to find a short you need to find some help. Replacing more parts isn't going to get it done. It may not be a short but that's one of the simplest electrical problems to diagnose. It could just be something always on and killing your battery. If that's the case, you'll get a spark when you reconnect the battery and everything is supposed to be off.

Looks like a bad alternator. Even though you replaced it. The need for a jump with a new battery suggests a short, killing the battery, then when you jump it, the load from charging the dead battery, or the short, or both, kills the alternator again. I would first verify no short circuits.

You could use cgsheen's friend from post #8. Odds are good that he knows what he's doing. I would have verified the timing, at least, before even coming back here. Then you would at least know a little more about the guy you took it to. Timing numbers are on a sticker under the hood, and/or in the FSM Engine Tuneup chapter. If you don't feel comfortable working on engines, cgsheen's guy is probably your best shot. You're not far off, but it's the little things like cleaning connections, turning the idle air bypass screw in the AFM, checking for vacuum leaks, etc. that will get you the "pass". If you don't enjoy fine-tuning, probably best to take it to the right guy.

Have you checked for spark? Could be no tach signal because there's no coil charge/discharge. Your 260Z should have electronic ignition with a variable reluctor distributor. Has it ever run?

It says "VISCOUS LSD" on the orange sticker. And it's obviously a short nose. Looks like cheap on the cheap. I think that later 300ZX's, like 1990 on, came with short noses. Still a common, inexpensive diff that is not a bolt-in for a Z.

I gave you the wrong link but it looks like you found the right section anyway. This chapter is what you want though - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/260z/1974/EE%20Engine%20Electrical.pdf

Thanks for that. The one thing that pops right out is no zinc additive for the cam break-in. Is that correct? I've never used a zinc additive on my old already broken-in engines and never had a problem. But the need for zinc during the first few thousand (million?) revolutions of raw steel on raw steel seems to be clear.

The batter(y) goes to the alternator and the alternator goes to the wiring harness which goes to the black cylinder which is the ignitor correct? - No, this is wrong, in many ways. Too many black cylinders in the engine bay to really know which one you're talking about. The black cylinder is probably your coil. The other stuff doesn't make any sense since you keep talking about an "ignitor" and your 260Z shouldn't have one. You're going to have to find a full-size computer and open up the FSM if you want to make any progress. The phone screen isn't going to get it done. There are drawings of the coil, so you'll know what that black cylinder is. At least put the phone to good use and take a picture.

Too many pages for me but maybe somebody could summarize the five setups. Rockers arms, cam brand and type (new or regrind), break-in oil, etc. The stuff that matters. They're not all the same type of rocker arms and cam are they?

Looks rich. You haven't added any details on the engine settings. " I've retarded the timing, messed with the afm, changed sparkplugs, adjusted the air bypass, and a couple of other things. " The statement above doesn't tell anyone anything. Numbers matter. Put everything back to stock including timing, Initial timing is important for idle. Verify that your timing advance mechanisms work. Advance is important for the load test. Measure timing with a light, not by ear or butt dyno. There are other tuning tips for passing emissions tests. But you need a good starting point. You didn't say if you get any retests or if you'll be testing at a shop before you go back to the state.

This is not how you test for spark. Besides the fact that for a stock 260Z electronic ignition the coil is not connected to the distributor. No easy fixes. Cars is hard. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

260Z's came with electronic ignition. Check the FSM. Shouldn't be any rust at all in the cap. Maybe on the distributor parts. Odds are though that you misplaced a wire. Doube check the wiring. Is "yo" really that hard to type in? Really?

Have you confirmed spark?

The engine gets hot,the engine bay gets hot. Air passes through the engine bay after removing heat from the radiator. "Air Conditioner" is a reference to the chapter in the Factory Service manuals. Drawings are there. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ The water cock is a valve that controls water flow through the heater core. Most likely location is between the hot water source and the heater core. Water hoses and control cables would be attached to it. Please don't ask where the hot water comes from. My car came with a bent control wire to the water cock. They get stuck, people push on the lever, the wire bends, the valve gets stuck open. Stick your head up under the passenger dash and see what moves when you push the heat control lever.

How about the heater core? Check your water cock, it might be stuck open. Operation is described in Air Conditioner.

How close are you? Post some numbers. Details on what's being tested also. I live in Oregon and they only test idle. How many retests do you get? I can roll through the DEQ line every hour for free if I want, until I get things right and pass. A lean miss will put you over, as will a too-rich mixture. Most old 280Z's run lean, and can benefit from a little extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit. You said it doesn't have a catalytic converter. Is it supposed to? Usually that's an immediate visual fail. Your post is generally vague. Add details.

There's no functional reason to use that intake. Somebody has traded real performance for perceived performance. It will run worse but look faster. You didn't get my point on the turbo injectors. Your stock ECU is programmed for the flow rate of NA injectors. The higher flow rate of the turbo injectors will add too much fuel and you'll be enveloped in raw gas fumes, if the engine even stays running.

The 240SX throttle body will be a bigger hole feeding the same 6 small holes. For the same change in throttle blade angle you'll get a larger change in aperture, giving the feel of more power but it won't be real.

Relative to what you need to know to get your engine running right, yes, the question above is "dumb". You need to learn the basics of how a typical engine works. Your lucky yours hasn't self-destructed yet, if it's not already damaged. You mentioned stuff that's bolted on but haven't even said what your timing is set to, initial, plus vacuum and centrifugal advance totals. You'll need to understand it anyway if you get the MSD unit. Many of us have damaged many parts, from your current knowledge level. Better to read a lot more and get a cheaper education. It might seem backward but the more primitive your engine management system is the more you need to know to get it to work right. The only "improvement" to your stock system is the FMU and all it does is add more fuel than stock based on manifold pressure (aka "vacuum), depending on how it's set up. You're in the Stone Age.