NewZed

The P79 and P90 have the same combustion chamber volume. Swapping heads will only get rid of the exhaust port liners. Read more stuff, especially the FAQ's on the L6 engine.

You can't see the springs and they're replaceable. Cutting a coil or two is common and shouldn't be considered butchering. If you don't have cash to burn on your hobby like some people do, cutting a coil is a simple, inexpensive way to get the job done. Now if you're planning to roll or cut the fenders so that you can drive it slammed, that might be considered butchery, if done wrong.

Part of your problem is the small diameter of your tires. If you're planning a tire change in the future you might factor that in also. Don't forget that distance of the body from the ground is more important for driveablity than tire-fender gap. Measure and focus on that. You might end up with a nice-looking gap, but be stuck to flat roads and off-street parking only. I used a bench grinder to cut my springs (all I had at the time). A simple cut-off blade on a chop saw, or hand tool will work also. The "don't use heat" advice is about using a torch to heat up the coil and letting it sag in to place. The camber problem isn't really there with the MacPherson strut system.

Why would you be targeting a number on a boost gauge? You can get that by adding restrictions. Here's a good primer on high HP turbo builds - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

So fatigue could be a factor. Upgrade options look expensive. Even the 39 spline needs a new adapter, adding even more cost. TTT has some alternatives for a new hub, that you could probably piece in, if you didn't want the whole kit. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car

Do you know yet what axles you were using? 35 year old stock Nissan axles, with MM CV adapters, or newer MM axles? Just curious. Seems like it could be a consideration.

It might be flow rate, but it doesn't seem like a pump problem. That pump is rated to ~90 psi and 30 gph. Have you checked for restrictions between the pump and the rails? Fittings, tubing, filters, etc. Clogged filter, funky brass fitting, teflon tape chunk. something like that. You might have 90 psi before the fuel filter, but 25 psi after, for example. In other words, the pump is fine, it's just working too hard to overcome restrictions. A simple check is to disconnect the line before the rails, after the filter(s), and measure flow rate.

The Hybridz search engine is worthless. Use Google. Type in the words "site:hybridz.org" before your search terms if you want to stick to the Hybridz forum. FricFrac. Find a spot where the car can sit for a long time while you install the new parts.

One of the first thing many people would do with a problem like yours is to measure fuel pressure while the problem is happening. Since it won't even start now, and you've already spent your extra money on a new pump, a can of starting fluid might tell you something. If it starts, fuel supply problem, if it doesn't, spark problem. Pull a spark plug and see if it's dirty.

"Lesser" is in the definition of the word "demote". Point of grammar. The OP was right. He got put in to a lesser group.

https://www.facebook.com/hokeperformance

Extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit to the ECU would probably "fix" it. A potentiometer allows tuneability. I have two "lean" AFM's in the garage. The use of a potentiometer is described around the internet. Here's a good link, bottom of the first post - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

LSD clutch chattering doesn't fit the description. But good luck with it.

Another - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionGears/tabid/1706/Default.aspx

What do you think is happening when you pinch the return line? Use some logic.

There used to be a kit available from Modern Motorsports but the company no longer exists. The AZC mount has issues? It was an interesting design, what's the problem? Seems like it should be modifiable.

That seems to be the method. The number is out there somewhere, I've seen it. If you post your number someone can probably tell you if it's shaved.

I thought that the clutch-type didn't need the other axle to generate torque. It's generated from the diff housing to the axle through the clutch. Pretty sure that I have read of people being glad that they had the diff when they broke an axle because they could still get the car on to the trailer. Various descriptions around the internet about how the Torsen type has the one wheel-in-the air problem (tap the brakes). Nobody mentions that with the clutch type. Always looking to learn something. Trying to keep my head straight.

I thought that jmortensen had shown that maximum shaft compression was with the car raised? Maximum droop? Took me a while to figure out how it could be, but it seems possible now that I know (the axle flange does not follow the same arc as the control arm). He actually measured it so had real numbers. Raising the car should increase binding.

The revving up issue or the keeps running issue? If you swapped but had the diode backward you'd get the "need to rev before charging" issue. You have two things happening. Actually you'd also get the keeps running issue if the diode was backward. But the fact that you swapped them means you're not sure which is which. Obviously not 100%. Check the diagram I posted, if you can see it.

You shouldn't be so confident. The facts of the situation say that you have the diode on the wrong wire. You could have checked. But you're on a phone. L.

Pretty sure. Take the shaft off on the side with less space, driver's side (I think), and run it. If the noise goes away, the passenger side was binding. Worst case, the car doesn't go anywhere.

With a CLSD you should be able to take one shaft off and drive it. I think.

Can you be more descriptive than "continuous clunking"? If it sounds the same at 10 mph as at 60, that's different than going from a clunk at 10 to grinding at 60.

Actually, 77 - 79 is the year range of 5 speed that has the same 1 - 4 ratios as the 75 - 77 4 speeds ( I think a 4 speed was also an option for 78 - 79). I was under the impression that the 5 speed is essentially the same as the 4 speed, with the 5th gear an engineered-in addition. So it would depend on the year of the "very good 4 speed", which wasn't mentioned. Ratios changed in 1975 (maybe late 74 with the body change), 1980, then again in 1981. Mastering the trivia...