NewZed

Wouldn't a new factory engine have a painted block? Looks like a rebuilt engine with a new head.

Even easier, the back of the master cylinder will be wet if it's leaking. Pull it forward and stick your finger in there. Sometimes the fluid will leak down the front of the booster also, from the mounting surface.

Start a new thread with "SU Carb Problems" in the title and you'll get more interest. There are tens or hundreds of "L28 won't run" problems posted every year. People don't even look any more.

So you're building a drag race car? You haven't said anything about engine management or or transmission or how often you'll race or what your budget is. Those would help narrow things down. As you said, the options are many. Just curious, which companies sell the engines with the "junk" parts?

If you remove the booster be careful of leaking fluid. I still have marks on my paint from a few drops I didn't see fall.

So the problem now is identical to the problem before all of the new stuff? And the carb "cleaning"? Have you tuned the carburetors? Have you spent any time in the FMS's Fuel System chapter? Just trying to establish a better state-of-the-situation.

260Z's have their own special battery drain when converting to the internally regulated alternator. It's out there on the internet somewhere. 280Z's can have a problem also but it's from a different source. I think that both are relay-related though. Always powered after the rewire. If you hear a relay click when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, you have that problem.

Speed bleeders on the rears will let you push a lot of fluid through the lines quickly. Don't give the small bubbles time to settle in to new crevices, and purge residual fluid.

Looks like Toyota uses an extra switched power wire at the alternator. Not sure why but it's there. Easy enough to add on. Can't remember if the S wire on a Z is switched or constant so be careful with the diagram. Might add a battery drain. L and S should be obvious, IG is the new one. http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html

How do you get the bolts back in and the pickup reinstalled? Tiny hands? Seems like good advice, just wondering.

Not trying to ruin a sale but you can buy surprisingly long lengths of prefitted brake line at most auto parts stores. No need for flaring tools or sourcing line and fittings. Just use a piece of string or wire to get the length, and either know the fitting size or take an old one with you. New sealing surfaces and clean line. Then, the quality of the bends depends on how much time you have and how artistic you are.

Seems like 9 should be fairly easy since the potential is well in to the 7's. Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 2400 pounds and HP of 1000 is7.80 seconds and MPH of 173.29 MPH.

There are several areas where wires get stretched and moved and can chafe. The console harness, and the heater control panel, for example. Both easier to remove than the dash. Almost better to get a short and have to fix it than have one of those lights that goes on and off randomly. Crap, I have to fix it, wait, it's working now.

Seems like it should be doable - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100127-do-i-have-to-hoist-my-engine-to-replace-oil-pan-gasket/?do=findComment&comment=938907 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81528-replacing-piston-rings-with-the-engine-in-the-vehicle-l-series-faq/

The guys that build engines on this forum say that the stock L28E intake doesn't even flow very well on the 2.8L engine it comes on. You're talking about a head with smaller valves (the MN47 is not the same as the L28 N47) , and its intake manifold, on an engine that is 30% larger than the engine it was designed for (3.1 vs. 2.4). Seems likely that it will be choked. It will probably bolt up fine but be down on potential power. And the CR might be high depending on the pistons you use. ~13.2 with flat-tops, ~10 with dished. Apparently the MN47 chamber's are about 39 cc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43671-n47-head-l28/ Just more stuff to think about. You can make anything work, but "good" is subjective. Good luck.

Seems like the simplest, cheapest, temporary engine would be the complete L24E package, with the LD crank, if just getting the crank installed is the goal. And new pistons, of course. Small valves, small intake, very high CR, and tuning to keep the engine from blowing up, but the crank would be in there. If that's the goal of the temporary package. Or just install the L24E complete and drive it while you get the other parts together. From my reading, the "stroker" engine doesn't have the greatest HP/$ ratio. I haven't built one, I just read a lot.

Make up your mind, was it me or is it you? I took the inflammatory part out, and left the funny stuff. No need to be so sensitive. You left yourself open. What you wanted, ARP studs, is in the thread I linked - "just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger.". The answer to your question is indirectly on the ARP web site - they don't list one.

The Hi 6 will be the new "ignitor".

You can make 1000 HP but can't find the size of a wheel stud? Reminds of a guy I knew who spent a lot of time bench-pressing to build a big chest, but had tiny bird legs. Here's something Google found with some words I remembered. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95937-78-datsun-280z-53-build/page-16 #308 and on

Here's a link to one with some color. Not perfect but easier to read. Looks like C6 feeds the gauges, which makes sense since my gauge lights died when the tail lights did. That was the clue. You might try unplugging sub-harnesses also. Unplug C6 and see if the tail lights work. Or take out all of the lights and see if C6 still blows the fuse. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42132-a-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-for-1978-280zsenjoy/

But what happens if you leave them removed? I like to work from the simplest case, then make it more complicated until the answer shows. If there's no short with all of the lights removed, then you don't have to worry about all of the stuff between the power and the sockets. If the short still happens with the lights removed, you can still leave all of them out until you make the short go away. Start as simple as possible. You might even have a defective bulb with an internal short, or a short across its electrodes. It's possible.

Pull all of your tail lights and see if the fuse still blows, or check for short to ground with a meter (save some fuses). Look inside the sockets to make sure they're not touching. I had a contact in a socket get hot enough to melt its way sideways to a short. The bulb contacts get old and oxidized, and the oxidation heats up.

There's another one. But it sounds like you have a plan so carry on.

Sounds lean. I've had several old AFM's that run lean. The simple fix is to add a potentiometer in-line with the coolant temperature sensor wire and raise resistance to add fuel. But I also have had bad/clogged injectors, that ran lean. Vacuum leaks will also cause a lean condition. Could be any, all, or a combination of. On an EFI car that has sat for a while, it takes some time to go through all of the basics of fixing vacuum leaks, cleaning connectors, tuning up, etc. Download the 1975 FSM and read the entire Engine Fuel chapter, you'll understand a lot more, like how to properly check fuel pressure (and what the number should be). Also read Engine Electrical and you'll realize that you shouldn't have points, and that the second set is only used for a short time anyway. They're for emissions, not performance. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

You mean you twisted the tip of the shaft that extends down through the cover to the oil pump drive gear, and it had that much play? That doesn't sound good. Someone from the recent past found that their drive gear had moved on the shaft. Search around and you might find the thread.