NewZed

You mean Synchromax? Not mesh? Synchromesh is a GM or Chrysler spec'ed product made by Pennzoil. Royal Purple's Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that are spec'ed for automatic transmission fluid, according to their ad - http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid/ My 71B transmission has needle bearings. Redline MTL is a high viscosity fluid, more like a typical 90W oil than an ATF. The term "T5" might be linked to more confusion than any other car word on the internet, for me anyway. Even without World Class and Non-World Class thrown in.

How did you do the damage? Forgot to check the oil or just beat the piss out of it? You might plan your new engine for longevity at high RPM if you're going to beat on the new one. And you should keep reading before buying anything. Right now you just have a list of buzz terms: Stage X cam, stainless valves, Supra injectors, MSD box, flat-tops. Cool sounding words, but none of them really mean much. Just trying to save you some time and money. Ideally, you'd have the whole engine and its control system spec.'ed out before buying anything.

Perfect. Open up the 1976 Engine Fuel chapter and look at the final few pages.

What year? Use some caps. Look here for for diagrams. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals , Engine Fuel chapter. Too bad if you're on a phone. The FPR acts like a pressure relief valve.

The windshield seals can leak also. Water gets in to the channel under the seal from anywhere on the outside glass, collects in the bottom, and runs to either corner and back out to the inside. If you have that problem you'll actually see a bead of water grow and drop when you take a corner after the car has sat in the rain. You might also see a trail where the water has been. The shark fin's purpose seems to be to divert the water to the outside so it doesn't run between the fender and the door. Look at it and you'll see that it's just a factory fix for a basic design weakness.

Water can get inside the door if the window seals are bad, run over to the door panel and leak out on the inside. It can also run down the front pillar and end up inside the seal. The rubber shark fin on the top of the door front edge needs to be intact to divert the water outward. It makes a difference and they're usually cracked and crumbling.

The number is in the FSM. But it can vary with the gauge used. The proper word would be pressure. And, if you search around you'll find that it's variation between cylinders that is most important. Not the number.

Can you add corrosion inhibitor? You can buy it separate from the glycols. Anyway, I'm way out here on the internet and I think I see signs. I'd pop the gasket off carefully and examine it closely, with a magnifying glass too, to be sure. Don't forget that a single overheat can warp the aluminum heads. You've had several with what might have been a bad water pump. Check the head for straightness. You might have had an initial overheat from a pump, then leakage due to head warpage. It's a downward spiral.

More likely a cracked head. Or a porting job has busted in to a water passage. These issues and pressure-testing to find them are described in the How to Modify..., and How to Rebuild, books. A picture of the head gasket would probably show more about whether or not it is the problem. The rusty water indicates that you ran without the corrosion inhibitors that come with coolant. That's not good.

You're getting ahead of yourself. The pistons and head need to match to give the CR that you're shooting for. You've only mentioned a block and a cam, but not the head. You haven't talked about engine management either. The stock system in your car now is not very tuneable, for matching the performance parts you're planning to use. You didn't say which books you've read but these two are worth the money, compared to what you'll spend on the engine. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155469&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Modify+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155426&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Rebuild+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

I missed Missed that, oops. But Autometer does sell typical electrical sender type gauges. Good to verify that the OP actually has a tube full of oil running to the gauge. I'm curious in general about the Rebello bypass. Does Rebello modify the pump when he installs the bypass? Seems odd to pay for a Rebello motor then get on to an internet forum and ask how to mess with it.

This statement is troubling. The mess is what makes it all go. Read through some of these threads. I also pulled out the one that might be the most informative for learning how the mess works. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Return to Post #7. The "start then die" is typical of the AFM fuel pump contact not being made, to activate the fuel pump relay. Here is a link with some good, labeled, pictures. But, do not try to adjust for lean or rich. It's not your problem. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/

Search Phantom Grip. Looks like a knock-off or rebranding of the same parts.

Just for fun I called up GSP and talked to a tech support guy. Apparently, they merged their Z and ZX lines and somebody assumed that the half-shafts were the same. Now they have to go out and try to undo all of the bad information. On the positive side, they're trying to be a supplier of complete axles for the Z's so maybe they'll cobble up some sort of CV setup with flanges that fit the Z's.

That's a mistake. And, sadly, whoever is handling the project at GSP is spreading the bad information around the internet. Amazon, eBay, everywhere.

The defrost grid material is commonly worn away from years of sunlight and cleanings. They usually don't work. The Frost Fighter is a good idea but the sizes available are too big and don't fit the windows right. I haven't seen any simple solutions to fixing the rear window defrost. There is a troubleshooting procedure in the FSM. Body Electrical, I believe. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

AC Delco used to supply a kit that contained the rubber, sleeves, washers and nuts under part number 45G25036. It was available through the Rockauto. The part number picture on their site only shows the bushings now, but the box may still contain all of the parts. Common name for the rubber is "strut rod bushing" or "strut arm bushing". Kits contain extra stuff like washers and sleeves. You could also buy one of the urethane aftermarket kits then split the rubber from the remaining set and use it on the back side. The nut is a metric thread, self-locking. Don't drive without fixing it, The wheel will move a lot without that rod connected.

List what you know and people can help fill in the blanks. Nobody wants to start from scratch. I typed "Z32 transmission swap" in to the search box and #4 was this - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120421-l28-350z-6-speed-transmission-adapters/ That's one.

Rebello probably knows. Probably interested in what you're thinking of doing also, I would guess. You could call him. Here's a book that describes modifying the pump's relief pressure - http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049 Forgot to say - the stock senders and gauges aren't very accurate, if that's where you're getting the "100" from. Best to verify with a directly-mounted gauge on an oil passage first.

If it's been sitting for long you could have dry cylinders. Low CR plus poor sealing plus old fuel = hard start. Squirt some oil in the cylinders. You might also look through the service manual. You don't seem to know the basic numbers for the system, like fuel pressure. There are tests described also for determining if your injectors are operating. Plus 30 pages of troubleshooting chart. EFEC chapter, ECCS system. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Z's have a rod that spends most of its time under compression and has a big washer and a nut retaining the back end. ZX's have the rod in front, mostly under tension. Not sure how it's attached. What are you talking about?

I wonder if the Hertz or Tachometer function on a meter could do the sensing and counting. If I had a turbo EMS and was troubleshooting I think that I'd probe the various connections using one of those, with everything plugged in and connected. I've used the Hertz function to measure coil pulses, as a pseudo-tachometer. One side on the coil negative, the other to ground. Might work the same on the CAS and/or ECU output. The OP didn't say what kind of CAS he's working with. Apparently, the 81's are generally problematic.

There is some excellent stuff on classiczcars about using and wiring the Honda motor. Not to send people away from HybridZ but it is just a wiper motor.

The Z tachs are kind of sensitive to the signal they get. There's a 2300 ohm resistor in the circuit to the tachometer so they don't need much. I had a GM HEI module setup with a ZX coil that would only quiver the tach needle until I added a capacitor (typical alternator condenser) to the negative side of the coil. It worked fine then. Might be worth a try. It's cheap and won't hurt. Forgot to say though, that with 8 cylinders instead of 6 it won't read right anyway. Edit - before too much fiddling you might consider making something like this work and get it all done at once - http://www.technoversions.com/