NewZed

I missed Missed that, oops. But Autometer does sell typical electrical sender type gauges. Good to verify that the OP actually has a tube full of oil running to the gauge. I'm curious in general about the Rebello bypass. Does Rebello modify the pump when he installs the bypass? Seems odd to pay for a Rebello motor then get on to an internet forum and ask how to mess with it.

This statement is troubling. The mess is what makes it all go. Read through some of these threads. I also pulled out the one that might be the most informative for learning how the mess works. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Return to Post #7. The "start then die" is typical of the AFM fuel pump contact not being made, to activate the fuel pump relay. Here is a link with some good, labeled, pictures. But, do not try to adjust for lean or rich. It's not your problem. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/

Search Phantom Grip. Looks like a knock-off or rebranding of the same parts.

Just for fun I called up GSP and talked to a tech support guy. Apparently, they merged their Z and ZX lines and somebody assumed that the half-shafts were the same. Now they have to go out and try to undo all of the bad information. On the positive side, they're trying to be a supplier of complete axles for the Z's so maybe they'll cobble up some sort of CV setup with flanges that fit the Z's.

That's a mistake. And, sadly, whoever is handling the project at GSP is spreading the bad information around the internet. Amazon, eBay, everywhere.

The defrost grid material is commonly worn away from years of sunlight and cleanings. They usually don't work. The Frost Fighter is a good idea but the sizes available are too big and don't fit the windows right. I haven't seen any simple solutions to fixing the rear window defrost. There is a troubleshooting procedure in the FSM. Body Electrical, I believe. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

AC Delco used to supply a kit that contained the rubber, sleeves, washers and nuts under part number 45G25036. It was available through the Rockauto. The part number picture on their site only shows the bushings now, but the box may still contain all of the parts. Common name for the rubber is "strut rod bushing" or "strut arm bushing". Kits contain extra stuff like washers and sleeves. You could also buy one of the urethane aftermarket kits then split the rubber from the remaining set and use it on the back side. The nut is a metric thread, self-locking. Don't drive without fixing it, The wheel will move a lot without that rod connected.

List what you know and people can help fill in the blanks. Nobody wants to start from scratch. I typed "Z32 transmission swap" in to the search box and #4 was this - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120421-l28-350z-6-speed-transmission-adapters/ That's one.

Rebello probably knows. Probably interested in what you're thinking of doing also, I would guess. You could call him. Here's a book that describes modifying the pump's relief pressure - http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049 Forgot to say - the stock senders and gauges aren't very accurate, if that's where you're getting the "100" from. Best to verify with a directly-mounted gauge on an oil passage first.

If it's been sitting for long you could have dry cylinders. Low CR plus poor sealing plus old fuel = hard start. Squirt some oil in the cylinders. You might also look through the service manual. You don't seem to know the basic numbers for the system, like fuel pressure. There are tests described also for determining if your injectors are operating. Plus 30 pages of troubleshooting chart. EFEC chapter, ECCS system. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Z's have a rod that spends most of its time under compression and has a big washer and a nut retaining the back end. ZX's have the rod in front, mostly under tension. Not sure how it's attached. What are you talking about?

I wonder if the Hertz or Tachometer function on a meter could do the sensing and counting. If I had a turbo EMS and was troubleshooting I think that I'd probe the various connections using one of those, with everything plugged in and connected. I've used the Hertz function to measure coil pulses, as a pseudo-tachometer. One side on the coil negative, the other to ground. Might work the same on the CAS and/or ECU output. The OP didn't say what kind of CAS he's working with. Apparently, the 81's are generally problematic.

There is some excellent stuff on classiczcars about using and wiring the Honda motor. Not to send people away from HybridZ but it is just a wiper motor.

The Z tachs are kind of sensitive to the signal they get. There's a 2300 ohm resistor in the circuit to the tachometer so they don't need much. I had a GM HEI module setup with a ZX coil that would only quiver the tach needle until I added a capacitor (typical alternator condenser) to the negative side of the coil. It worked fine then. Might be worth a try. It's cheap and won't hurt. Forgot to say though, that with 8 cylinders instead of 6 it won't read right anyway. Edit - before too much fiddling you might consider making something like this work and get it all done at once - http://www.technoversions.com/

Disconnect the stock Transistor Ign. at the module, not at the coil. Otherwise the HEI module may not be able to break the circuit to get a spark. That's one possibility. It's possible to test the ECU output also. The yellow/white wire should have off-on voltage when the engine is turning, if it's getting a good CAS signal. People have also described ways to test the CAS.

You didn't mention the year, or even 240, 260 or 280. Here are a couple of starting points. http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Make sure the tight side of the timing chain is tight and the damper timing mark is at zero.

You're spinning your wheels down a bunch of dead ends. Get the FSM, and the Fuel Injection Guidebook, and read a few pages. EFEC chapter in the FSM, and use the 1980 Guidebook. It's close enough probably for 1983, I don't think the wring changed much. Check the FSM wiring to be sure. Don't assume things, and don't jump to conclusions. Test parts before replacing them Your coil was probably fine and you wasted money on the MSD Blaster coil. You'll need a meter to measure resistance, to do the testing correctly. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

The dyno variability, and Rebello numbers, has come up before - Post #8 starts it http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104581-twin-cam-l6-34l/

The light itself may be controlled by the ECU since the trigger point would be temperature dependent. The ECU would use the signal from the water temperature sender to determine when to turn on the light. The temperature sender is typically in the the thermostat housing.

The computers don't reset on those old cars. Whoever Tom is, he might be a nice guy,but he doesn't know anything about your car. You said that timing chain was correctly installed but you didn't mention the notch and groove. You might be looking at the wrong things on the timing chain to determine correct installation. It's been said that the L6 can warp a head after one overheat. You described many. Have you checked the plugs for coolant or pressure leakage? A cylinder pressure test would tell you if things are right or not. ThE 280ZX FSM's should be close enough to the L24E engine to help you out. Check Engine Mechanical and Engine Fuel and Emissions Control. The 1981 Fuel Injection Guide is good also. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Edit - could also be something simple like firing order. These engines will run with the wires placed in reverse, on just the two or three cylinders that fire. Best to confirm the basics. And this part sounds like you have your vacuum advance line connected to full time vacuum instead of ported. " the car would idle at 20 degrees, then drop down to 0 when you gave it gas". Basics.

Some people get pissed and vindictive if they feel insulted. You might be hurting the cause with the e-mail. Just saying, unintended consequences. You could make the point with a reference to people you know, who are anonymous for protection. Put the onus on your trust in his words, rather than passing it to him, indirectly.

No, the other 240, 260, 280.. sub-forum is. It says so right at the top. "A forum where members can post pictures and descriptions of progress on their project cars." This one is more for discussing specific topics or questions. That's why it's under "Technical". Here's a good one for your body shop question - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/13-body-kits-paint/ And the second link just sets a few ground rules to keep the site organized and neat. It helps the thought processes.

You should put all of your pictures here - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/57-s30-series-240z-260z-280z/ And keep your topics isolated to separate threads. And title the thread with informative words. You asked for a body shop in two threads but neither thread title says anything about it. It'll help you get some responses. The first four pinned threads in this link are important too. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/