NewZed

Flywheels are the same between 4 and 5 speeds, typically, but automatics use what is commonly called a flex-plate. You need an actual flywheel and clutch for a manual. Not sure on the starter but they may be different for certain years. If Rockauto has different part numbers, they're probably different. The distance to the ring gear is probably different between the two. Google "flex-plate" and "flywheel" and you'll see what you have and what you need.

How does that affect head cooling? Seems like that would be one way to block the head port for better flow without losing heater function. The threads are the same for the plug in the block and the nipple in the head. Swap and buy some extra hose. The coolant through the core might also be cooler. My heater core pumps out a ton of heat with very little flow. I've pondered switching just for better cabin heat control.

Stick some thin plastic (like Mylar or transparency sheet [office-speak]) between the dash cap (that's what you mean by "overlay", right?) and the dash,with some lubrication, and you might be able to slip the tach out. You didn't say which year of tach you're working with. There are drawings in the FSM's of the tach backs. Body Electrical 1978, for example.

Measure the fuel pressure when it's having the problem.

Can you pump up the pressure by lifting and pressing the pedal repeatedly? If they can be pumped up and will hold, then you have air in the system and need to find a way to bleed it. If they can't be pumped up then you probably have a leaky seal in the master cylinder. Did you take the MC apart and clean it before installing it? Today's manufacturing standards are poor and rebuilt parts are often dirty,with honing grit inside that can damage the new seals.

Could be that you re-installed the calipers on the wrong sides. They're interchangeable. The bleed screw needs to be at the top where the air bubble is.

I've had good luck with MT90 also, in a 1978 5 speed. It ground in to third at high RPM quick up-shifts, with plain old Valvoline 75-90. The MT90 fixed that. It didn't fix the 1980 5 speed though. But the Swepco/ATF blend did, for the most part. I think the 1980 box might have had some rust on the synchro cones. Who knows. For the record. Notice on the Redline "Gear Oil for Manual Transmissions" page, they also list two ATF fluids. ATF/MTF fluid.

Hence "more like". 75W up to 140W is the Nissan spec for an 83 NA box, depending on usage temperature. ATF is about half the viscosity of typical gear oil. Hard to compare since they use a different spec. But Redline shows viscosity numbers on their site. Compare the cSt spec. CentiStoke is a measure of resistance of a spindle spinning in the fluid. Higher number means more resistance. Many words have been spent on these topics. Still interesting. For what it's worth, trial and error seems to work best for old worn transmissions. I use a 75/25 blend of Swepco 201 and Dex/Merc ATF in an old 1980 FS5W71B 5 speed. It had serious synchro grind at mid to high RPM shifts. Gone now, except for way high. Credit to jmortensen for the recommendation, although he uses 50/50. Everyone has their magic elixir. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=9 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=45&pcid=7

Ouch. These engines do seem to generate the occasional odd noise that can't be identified or fixed. It kind of looks like your fix actually led to the final demise. You didn't mention any measurements or observations of old bearing quality. Or oil pressure/flow. Might have been better off to have just put the old bearings back on. Many people do just fine installing an old high-mileage motor to make a nice daily driver. The engines don't seem to show significant signs of wear until over 150,000 miles. They're super durable. On the other hand, many people seem to destroy/damage newly rebuilt engines,or parts of them, because the aftermarket parts just aren't as good and don't break-in right. It's a dilemma. Anyway, you've noticed that nobody can offer an opinion on your piston choice, because it can't be determined without knowing what the other engine parts are. Build an engine on paper first. Good luck.

You mean Synchromax? Not mesh? Synchromesh is a GM or Chrysler spec'ed product made by Pennzoil. Royal Purple's Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that are spec'ed for automatic transmission fluid, according to their ad - http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid/ My 71B transmission has needle bearings. Redline MTL is a high viscosity fluid, more like a typical 90W oil than an ATF. The term "T5" might be linked to more confusion than any other car word on the internet, for me anyway. Even without World Class and Non-World Class thrown in.

How did you do the damage? Forgot to check the oil or just beat the piss out of it? You might plan your new engine for longevity at high RPM if you're going to beat on the new one. And you should keep reading before buying anything. Right now you just have a list of buzz terms: Stage X cam, stainless valves, Supra injectors, MSD box, flat-tops. Cool sounding words, but none of them really mean much. Just trying to save you some time and money. Ideally, you'd have the whole engine and its control system spec.'ed out before buying anything.

Perfect. Open up the 1976 Engine Fuel chapter and look at the final few pages.

What year? Use some caps. Look here for for diagrams. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals , Engine Fuel chapter. Too bad if you're on a phone. The FPR acts like a pressure relief valve.

The windshield seals can leak also. Water gets in to the channel under the seal from anywhere on the outside glass, collects in the bottom, and runs to either corner and back out to the inside. If you have that problem you'll actually see a bead of water grow and drop when you take a corner after the car has sat in the rain. You might also see a trail where the water has been. The shark fin's purpose seems to be to divert the water to the outside so it doesn't run between the fender and the door. Look at it and you'll see that it's just a factory fix for a basic design weakness.

Water can get inside the door if the window seals are bad, run over to the door panel and leak out on the inside. It can also run down the front pillar and end up inside the seal. The rubber shark fin on the top of the door front edge needs to be intact to divert the water outward. It makes a difference and they're usually cracked and crumbling.

The number is in the FSM. But it can vary with the gauge used. The proper word would be pressure. And, if you search around you'll find that it's variation between cylinders that is most important. Not the number.

Can you add corrosion inhibitor? You can buy it separate from the glycols. Anyway, I'm way out here on the internet and I think I see signs. I'd pop the gasket off carefully and examine it closely, with a magnifying glass too, to be sure. Don't forget that a single overheat can warp the aluminum heads. You've had several with what might have been a bad water pump. Check the head for straightness. You might have had an initial overheat from a pump, then leakage due to head warpage. It's a downward spiral.

More likely a cracked head. Or a porting job has busted in to a water passage. These issues and pressure-testing to find them are described in the How to Modify..., and How to Rebuild, books. A picture of the head gasket would probably show more about whether or not it is the problem. The rusty water indicates that you ran without the corrosion inhibitors that come with coolant. That's not good.

You're getting ahead of yourself. The pistons and head need to match to give the CR that you're shooting for. You've only mentioned a block and a cam, but not the head. You haven't talked about engine management either. The stock system in your car now is not very tuneable, for matching the performance parts you're planning to use. You didn't say which books you've read but these two are worth the money, compared to what you'll spend on the engine. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155469&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Modify+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155426&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Rebuild+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

I missed Missed that, oops. But Autometer does sell typical electrical sender type gauges. Good to verify that the OP actually has a tube full of oil running to the gauge. I'm curious in general about the Rebello bypass. Does Rebello modify the pump when he installs the bypass? Seems odd to pay for a Rebello motor then get on to an internet forum and ask how to mess with it.

This statement is troubling. The mess is what makes it all go. Read through some of these threads. I also pulled out the one that might be the most informative for learning how the mess works. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Return to Post #7. The "start then die" is typical of the AFM fuel pump contact not being made, to activate the fuel pump relay. Here is a link with some good, labeled, pictures. But, do not try to adjust for lean or rich. It's not your problem. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/

Search Phantom Grip. Looks like a knock-off or rebranding of the same parts.

Just for fun I called up GSP and talked to a tech support guy. Apparently, they merged their Z and ZX lines and somebody assumed that the half-shafts were the same. Now they have to go out and try to undo all of the bad information. On the positive side, they're trying to be a supplier of complete axles for the Z's so maybe they'll cobble up some sort of CV setup with flanges that fit the Z's.

That's a mistake. And, sadly, whoever is handling the project at GSP is spreading the bad information around the internet. Amazon, eBay, everywhere.