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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Those used to be connected to the fusible links. They power everything in the car. They're needed. Here's an easy link to the Service Manual - http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals
  2. NewZed
    I posted your Facebook work in Post #4. It references 240 and 260, but no 280. Hence the darkness about 280Z's. It just seems odd that Nissan would add the R200 option to the S30 cars and create and leave in place a new problem. Since they changed other stuff at the same time, it's not clear if they missed something or not. Someday, I'll get a 240Z and do some measurements. Or check for binding when i have my 280Z apart again. It's working too well to take apart right now.
  3. NewZed
    What goes up usually comes down. New diff mounts actually have a little bump of rubber in between the metal pieces to absorb the shock, The stuff after "Since" doesn't quite make sense.
  4. NewZed
    The later one is probably shorter from top to the collector flange. Take a measurement. It should fit the head but the exhaust pipes will be too far away, and and not aligned correctly. You'd need to do some pipe work.
  5. NewZed
    The problem, if it's real, is probably more noticeable with stiff bushings, like polyurethane. The stock rubber bushings would just deflect outward, most likely.
  6. NewZed
    All I have are 280Z parts. So I went to the only other source available, the FSM, and compared engineering drawings. I don't have the software to manipulate these images the way I'd like but I think that I was able to match the bearing race sizes. And they seem to show that the 280Z flange and axle assembly is actually slightly narrower than the 240Z. It's not dramatic at all but might work out to a few millimeters in real size. I'm not trying to make a case for anything, just trying to figure out what's different. Feel free to take some shots. I used a caliper to compare images on the screen and resized them until the bearing races were the same diameter. 1976 drawing on top, 1972 240Z bottom. Note that you have to measure to compare flanges, the 240Z image is offset to the right.
  7. NewZed
    That is my proposal. Assuming that track width and wheel offset are the same, that's all that's left. Or the 280Z's bind also, but nobody has noticed it.
  8. NewZed
    Saw some of your other posts but can't remember if you knew this one or not - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2995
  9. NewZed
    Not butt-hurt, but amused (that's an intentional pun). At least you have a page number now, although it is after the fact.
  10. NewZed
    Faking to try to get his answers? We all used to do that when we were kids. Or it could be a reading issue.
  11. NewZed
    Pretty well described in the FSM. Can't go wrong looking through that, it's like a school book.
  12. NewZed
    I don't have the parts to confirm it but, assuming the wheel track widths are the same, 240Z and 280Z, the only thing left is the companion flange depth. The 240Z companion flange must stick inward farther than the 280Z flange.
  13. NewZed
    Looks like a two car demolition derby. Have fun with it.
  14. NewZed
    You were clear. It's a self locking nut on a stud with either a washer under it or a flanged clamping area. Designed for zero movement once it's torqued to the proper spec., locking the bar to the diff cover. The size of the hole is not a big factor unless it's so wallowed out that the nut and washer is slipping inside. Take it apart and remove any burrs on the clamping area, clean all grease/dirt/oil from those areas, including the flat area on the diff cover. Put it all back together and torque it down. A clean, dry surface with good surface contact and it shouldn't move at all. Burrs, dirt, defects, with lubrication, will allow it to move and the nut loosen.
  15. NewZed
    It's only been 17 minutes. Drift is an odd freak show kind of entertainment. Not like modifying a car for handling and performance. They're two very different areas of expertise.
  16. NewZed
    The torque spec. is 54 to 69 ft-lbs. Not enormous but more than snug. The only play should be what the bushings allow.
  17. NewZed
    First - click on the Continue Reading link. Then continue reading.
  18. NewZed
    It will be stronger than the R180. Good that you got all of the parts. Go down to March 5, 2014 on this page and you'll find one potential issue, if using the stock control arms. Not enough room, binding half-shaft. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670
  19. NewZed
    It's been a year and 4 months. Most say that new OEM rocker arms don't exist anymore, unless you found some old stock. Many people report ruined cams also, so your finding that only the rocker arms are bad is odd. You haven't really described the problem either, just "rocker arm wear". Need details. Is it visible, or is it supposed from valve lash change? How is your mechanic going to "find" a remedy? Different arms, different oil?
  20. NewZed
    Take the cap off the distributor and look at what happens when the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. The pickup wires flex a little bit and might be touching something or losing contact. Your mechanic should have suggested this.
  21. NewZed
    Stick with the stock R180 open, and the skinny tires, and do lots of one-wheel smoke shows. That way you'll be off the street as quickly as possible.
  22. NewZed
    Sorry. I got misdirected. The method of running a hose from the nipple back up and in to the reservoir should work. The key for doing it on the car I think is to get a full stroke of the pistons and/or have the cylinder oriented so that the internal bleed hole is at the top where the gas bubbles are. If I was going to try it on the car, I'd jack the front end up so the front of the MC is higher than the back. Get that bubble up by the bleed hole so it can get pushed out.
  23. NewZed
    I damaged a GM HEI module doing this. Forgot to put two plug wires back on and actually ran the engine for a few seconds. Then it wouldn't start after I put the wires back on even though I had spark, weak and yellow. It would start and run with starter fluid but that may have been because the engine was warm. I think it may have been starting from detonation then the higher voltage once the key was off Start let it keep running. Anyway, your actual ignition transistor is inside the Crane box so that might be your problem. I've never seen a manufacturer's warning about disconnected spark plug wires. Makes my past problem source more probable. If you're experimentally minded, I've seen that the GM HEI module will trigger from a variety of sources. They use it as an ignitor with the 0 and 5 signal from the turbo computers. It might trigger from the optical signal of your distributor. Not multi-spark but still high energy.
  24. NewZed
    Actually Miles is probably right. With air in the master cylinder you could have one side flow well and the other not, because you're unable to build pressure. Still shows an imbalance in the two sides but once all of the air is out it may not matter much. You probably still have a leak but you should be able to build some pressure.
  25. NewZed
    Seems like you're getting distracted and not really finishing the individual tasks. Confirm that master cylinder is not leaking in to the booster, confirm that wheel cylinder is not clogged, confirm that line to wheel cylinder will flow freely, etc. You still don't know where that fluid went, and you've shown that the hard line will drip, just like the bleed valve. Not really any new knowledge.
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