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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Not butt-hurt, but amused (that's an intentional pun). At least you have a page number now, although it is after the fact.
  2. NewZed
    Faking to try to get his answers? We all used to do that when we were kids. Or it could be a reading issue.
  3. NewZed
    Pretty well described in the FSM. Can't go wrong looking through that, it's like a school book.
  4. NewZed
    I don't have the parts to confirm it but, assuming the wheel track widths are the same, 240Z and 280Z, the only thing left is the companion flange depth. The 240Z companion flange must stick inward farther than the 280Z flange.
  5. NewZed
    Looks like a two car demolition derby. Have fun with it.
  6. NewZed
    You were clear. It's a self locking nut on a stud with either a washer under it or a flanged clamping area. Designed for zero movement once it's torqued to the proper spec., locking the bar to the diff cover. The size of the hole is not a big factor unless it's so wallowed out that the nut and washer is slipping inside. Take it apart and remove any burrs on the clamping area, clean all grease/dirt/oil from those areas, including the flat area on the diff cover. Put it all back together and torque it down. A clean, dry surface with good surface contact and it shouldn't move at all. Burrs, dirt, defects, with lubrication, will allow it to move and the nut loosen.
  7. NewZed
    It's only been 17 minutes. Drift is an odd freak show kind of entertainment. Not like modifying a car for handling and performance. They're two very different areas of expertise.
  8. NewZed
    The torque spec. is 54 to 69 ft-lbs. Not enormous but more than snug. The only play should be what the bushings allow.
  9. NewZed
    First - click on the Continue Reading link. Then continue reading.
  10. NewZed
    It will be stronger than the R180. Good that you got all of the parts. Go down to March 5, 2014 on this page and you'll find one potential issue, if using the stock control arms. Not enough room, binding half-shaft. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670
  11. NewZed
    It's been a year and 4 months. Most say that new OEM rocker arms don't exist anymore, unless you found some old stock. Many people report ruined cams also, so your finding that only the rocker arms are bad is odd. You haven't really described the problem either, just "rocker arm wear". Need details. Is it visible, or is it supposed from valve lash change? How is your mechanic going to "find" a remedy? Different arms, different oil?
  12. NewZed
    Take the cap off the distributor and look at what happens when the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. The pickup wires flex a little bit and might be touching something or losing contact. Your mechanic should have suggested this.
  13. NewZed
    Stick with the stock R180 open, and the skinny tires, and do lots of one-wheel smoke shows. That way you'll be off the street as quickly as possible.
  14. NewZed
    Sorry. I got misdirected. The method of running a hose from the nipple back up and in to the reservoir should work. The key for doing it on the car I think is to get a full stroke of the pistons and/or have the cylinder oriented so that the internal bleed hole is at the top where the gas bubbles are. If I was going to try it on the car, I'd jack the front end up so the front of the MC is higher than the back. Get that bubble up by the bleed hole so it can get pushed out.
  15. NewZed
    I damaged a GM HEI module doing this. Forgot to put two plug wires back on and actually ran the engine for a few seconds. Then it wouldn't start after I put the wires back on even though I had spark, weak and yellow. It would start and run with starter fluid but that may have been because the engine was warm. I think it may have been starting from detonation then the higher voltage once the key was off Start let it keep running. Anyway, your actual ignition transistor is inside the Crane box so that might be your problem. I've never seen a manufacturer's warning about disconnected spark plug wires. Makes my past problem source more probable. If you're experimentally minded, I've seen that the GM HEI module will trigger from a variety of sources. They use it as an ignitor with the 0 and 5 signal from the turbo computers. It might trigger from the optical signal of your distributor. Not multi-spark but still high energy.
  16. NewZed
    Actually Miles is probably right. With air in the master cylinder you could have one side flow well and the other not, because you're unable to build pressure. Still shows an imbalance in the two sides but once all of the air is out it may not matter much. You probably still have a leak but you should be able to build some pressure.
  17. NewZed
    Seems like you're getting distracted and not really finishing the individual tasks. Confirm that master cylinder is not leaking in to the booster, confirm that wheel cylinder is not clogged, confirm that line to wheel cylinder will flow freely, etc. You still don't know where that fluid went, and you've shown that the hard line will drip, just like the bleed valve. Not really any new knowledge.
  18. NewZed
    Wouldn't a new factory engine have a painted block? Looks like a rebuilt engine with a new head.
  19. NewZed
    Even easier, the back of the master cylinder will be wet if it's leaking. Pull it forward and stick your finger in there. Sometimes the fluid will leak down the front of the booster also, from the mounting surface.
  20. NewZed
    Start a new thread with "SU Carb Problems" in the title and you'll get more interest. There are tens or hundreds of "L28 won't run" problems posted every year. People don't even look any more.
  21. NewZed
    So you're building a drag race car? You haven't said anything about engine management or or transmission or how often you'll race or what your budget is. Those would help narrow things down. As you said, the options are many. Just curious, which companies sell the engines with the "junk" parts?
  22. NewZed
    If you remove the booster be careful of leaking fluid. I still have marks on my paint from a few drops I didn't see fall.
  23. NewZed
    So the problem now is identical to the problem before all of the new stuff? And the carb "cleaning"? Have you tuned the carburetors? Have you spent any time in the FMS's Fuel System chapter? Just trying to establish a better state-of-the-situation.
  24. NewZed
    260Z's have their own special battery drain when converting to the internally regulated alternator. It's out there on the internet somewhere. 280Z's can have a problem also but it's from a different source. I think that both are relay-related though. Always powered after the rewire. If you hear a relay click when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, you have that problem.
  25. NewZed
    Speed bleeders on the rears will let you push a lot of fluid through the lines quickly. Don't give the small bubbles time to settle in to new crevices, and purge residual fluid.
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