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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    I think that the scalloped hubs were used only on the very early 240Z's, not all 240Z's. The other early/late indicator might be the height of the rear strut towers. But, as you've found, the tube diameter is the best tell.
  2. NewZed
    Looks like there is a Ring-O. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/FuelTank/ToJul-76/tabid/1621/Default.aspx Courtesy shows it but low availability - http://www.courtesyparts.com/ring-o-p-265964.html
  3. NewZed
    For curiosity only, not dispute, what are the signs of flex that you see? Stress cracks, wheel hop, shattering glass, ...? And do you know what is flexing? The cars are big, squarish tin cans so flex probably happens in multiple areas. If one area flexes its counterpart has to also. It's been discussed pretty heavily but always good to get a new view.
  4. NewZed
    Is it really wired that way or you just think it is? You show constant power to the coil and ignition module, even with the key off. Makes no sense. Just use the factory wires at the ballast. Nice use of color in the drawing though, I can see why it's attractive.
  5. NewZed
    Nothing special about a 260. Open the link and read. You've already been pointed. The wires are already there, at the ballast resistor.
  6. NewZed
    There's some bad information in that thread. I stopped reading when I saw the thing about the aquarium valve on the vacuum advance hose. Kind of ingenious but the analysis of how the mechanism operates was incomplete. Here's a site with some ideas that seems to work well. You want power when the key is On, and at Start. Pretty sure if you wired it the way it's shown in that thread, the engine would not turn off with the key. It's basically "hotwired": http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html
  7. NewZed
    Click More Reply Options. Then Choose File, then Attach This File. If it has sat for 30 years, the brake fluid has probably absorbed enough moisture to corrode both wheel cylinders, both calipers, and the master cylinder. If you're lucky the brake drums will come off so that you can work on the shoes and get to the wheel cylinder bolts. Should be fun.
  8. NewZed
    You mean the piece on the bottom, held on by the roll-pin? Looks like a 280Z piece, before they went to the plastic design around 280ZX time-frame. Wouldn't be surprised if they were the same. If you had dimensions it could be checked. I have some. For checking only, not for sale though.
  9. NewZed
    I don't like to post in the FAQ threads but this seems like it might be appropriate. clarkspeed posted a link to a site, about shocks, but the site also had a pretty good description of the different differential options and how they behave. http://farnorthracing.com/tech_quaife.html (after 175 posts, maybe it's already in here...) clarkspeed's post - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69623-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/page-23?do=findComment&comment=1135971
  10. NewZed
    There are no verbs in your plan. Are you planning to drive the car while working on it or work on these things over a long time frame? You haven't mentioned what you plan to do with the car when it's done. An engine "upgrade" for drag-racing would not be the same as one for the street or autocross. Might be fun to just get it back to stock running condition before the final plan is set. I bought mine thinking I'd do a small-block chevy swap but found that the L6 is plenty of work and fun.
  11. NewZed
    Scale? 1 mm or 1 cm? Is it flat? Jagged edges? An ugly freehand Paint drawing might tell more.
  12. NewZed
    There is, but it can be accommodated with spacers. The part numbers are actually more of an "application number". I'd say search also, but it doesn't get discussed a lot. Search Tokico 3038.
  13. NewZed
    Fuel gets mixed at the carburetors, so no cylinder should run leaner or richer than another with a single carburetor. Might have more or less charge, but the fuel/air ratio will be the same. Multiport EFI, on the other hand, can run leaner or richer, since the air flow can vary but each cylinder gets the same quantity of fuel.
  14. NewZed
    You obviously haven't been stalking for long.
  15. NewZed
    Pretty easy to pop the reluctor wheel off and remove the breaker plate. Then you can watch the weights and springs as you rotate the advance mechanism. Hold the bottom and twist the top. Something's not right in there. It should move smoothly, weights moving outward away from the shaft, and snap back to where the weights are in by the shaft. It does that over and over when in use, sometimes divots get worn in to the mechanism pieces. Things dry out over time also, along with rusting.
  16. NewZed
    Weird that the "calibration" procedure is just turning something "about 45 degrees". Implies that it's more of a switch, than a calibration. If it's turned just 35 degrees is the reading off by a small amount or is it back to the 6 cylinder setting? Man, we were mean last month. My 76 and 78 tachs work with a GM HEI module, and a capacitor on the negative post blue wire. Without the capacitor, the needle just quivered. That was with a ZX coil though, with the HEI module.
  17. NewZed
    .............
  18. NewZed
    Not sure what The Avalanche refers to, thought it might be the Suburban, but I had a VG30E that had a Check light that would come on and go off randomly. Turned out the EGR passage was clogged with carbon. Lots of short trips over the years. There's a code for EGR malfunction. Count the flashing lights.
  19. NewZed
    You must have left some pictures out. All that shows is an old beat-up 240Z with flat tires. There's another sub-forum for Member's Projects - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/44-members-projects/ Doesn't matter much, but it fits.
  20. NewZed
    Hard to keep up with this field. They're doing metal now. Who knows about durability in an under-hood application. https://www.solidconcepts.com/technologies/direct-metal-laser-sintering-dmls/ https://www.solidconcepts.com/technologies/selective-laser-sintering-sls/ https://www.solidconcepts.com/
  21. NewZed
    How about rings of proper diameter from another engine brand or design? Rings, not pistons. There's been stuff written about using Honda XL500 motorcycle pistons. Might need to recut the ring grooves in the Datsun pistons but the rings might work. They must have worked for the guys using the complete piston sets. Here's one old thread from zcar that I found. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/45301-honda-xl500-pistons.html Tony D mentions GM Vega engines in the post, another ring possibility. And a parts picture - http://www.japbikespares.com/honda-xl500-oversize-piston-kit-rings-pin-clips-89-5mm
  22. NewZed
    Seems like prep work on the axles, similar to what people do on high performance connecting rods, might help. Removed all stress risers, massage the surfaces to distribute the load. Make sure the companion flange is engaged to the best depth to direct and distribute the load. Examination of where the stock axle broke might give some clues about how and why it broke. Could be that the adapter flange caused a problem. The same thing could happen with a bigger shaft. It's the fine details that make the difference when you're at the limits of the design.
  23. NewZed
    When does the timing retard? Not really clear what you're describing. And there aren't really any design elements needed to connect directly to intake manifold. Once you open the throttle on ported manifold vacuum, it's connected directly anyway. Connecting to full time vacuum just gives high advance at idle. Ported vacuum gives retarded, more stable, idle timing
  24. NewZed
    You can't tell much from external appearance. I had a fine-looking engine (they all look the same really) that was high miles, worn valve guides and old seals, only ran well after I beat on it. If you can't drive it or hear it run, you're at the same level of knowledge as a wrecking yard engine, except that most wrecking yards have a replacement guarantee.
  25. NewZed
    If you're "rebuilding" to specs. for a turbo engine and you're buying new pistons anyway then all you really need is a good block and head to start with. $200 for a basic 280ZX NNA engine isn't bad, if it's in decent shape. Beats the typical wrecking yard price. L28ET engines are hard to come by.
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