NewZed

Found an interesting short nose diff mount on a car for sale on eBay. Someone on classiczcar started a thread about the car. Notice the custom mount for the nose, using the AZC control arm tube as the mounting point. Since the tube spins, the mount can't control fore and aft movement but it does support up and down. Stole a picture, the link is attached too. It could probably be made stronger by connecting both sides of the two mounts, making it one crossmember that hangs from the control arm "system" tubes. Forgot to say, this concept should work for the stock control arms also. I don't know if those are AZC parts or the car designers. The designer is Kindig It Design. Never heard of them until now - http://www.kindigit.com/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-restored-1972-Datsun-240-Z-Resto-Mod-/161386307368?afsrc=1

I've never really seen a good picture of the Arizona ZCar rear suspension installed. It seems to me that with three pivot lines in the suspension that the control arm could buckle inward around the main big tube. With the weight of the car pressing the strut outward, and the lines of force mostly centered during cornering it apparently doesn't happen. But under the right (wrong) conditions I don't see how it could be avoided. This would allow the wheel to move inward quite bit. Am I missing something? Has anyone heard of problems with this system? I'm pretty sure that I made a similar comment about someone's home design in a past thread. Didn't realize that AZC was using it. Attached a picture that I borrowed from Whitehead Performance and a simple drawing to illustrate. http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/1971-datsun-240z-restomod-rear-suspension-build-wilwood-arizona-z-car/#prettyPhoto

One of the great benefits of owning a Z over other old sports cars is that there are wiring diagrams and service manuals all over the internet, free for opening, saving and/or downloading. You're going to need more than just knowing "constant power" wires. Use the Google with the right words. Search classiczcars.com and you might find the full-color versions.

Some multimeters will measure voltage frequency (Fluke 115, for example). Might be worth a shot on the sensor. If it shows up dirty at the same RPM range, you'll know it's the sensor or noise on the signal. If it doesn't anything, the meter might just have better noise filtering, or it may not be the sensor at all. Might not be conclusive but it might tell you something.. You'll have to know RPM at the same time or do some math on the meter number, since you'll be getting 35x RPM.

There are a couple or more good threads in the link below. People have made the turbo engines work in other cars with everything from the stock 280Z EFI system and a rising rate FPR, 300ZX ECU swaps, Pathfinder ECU swaps, up to aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt. The Ultimate L28ET Guide... thread is probably the best for you. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ DIYAutotune is the place for Megasquirt - https://www.diyautotune.com/

The extra wires are from the external regulator plug. The big green IG wire for sure, and one of the others, I can't remember what all of the letters mean, if I ever knew them. Maybe the white wire. The only wire you really need from the harness is the L wire. The others can all be run directly from the alternator. Your car probably has the brake warning lamp check relay to cause you problems. It's connected to the yellow wire and will drain your battery if you use the atlanticz write-up, because the relay will be powered all the time. I had to rewire mine to the fuel pump power circuit. I still have my EFI and fusible links, all intact and working.

It's a vacuum actuated idle speed increaser, activated by the AC switch. There should be a vacuum hose connected to it, that runs to a solenoid over by a yellowish-white plastic bottle on the passenger side.

Search around for VK56 swaps and see what cars they fit in. Here's a 350Z swap, with a little bit of a hood clearance problem. Here's a thread for a 240SX swap. It's in Stanceworks though, so the engine will be taller than the car when he's done. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=57eb119f964788241869ccde76ca63c6&t=50721&page=2

Are they from Chequered Flag or MM.?

Oops. Subtract all injector references. Still, timing problem seems unlikely, assuming that the damper pulley mark is correct. By the way, the stock distributors are usually done advancing at 2500 - 2700 RPM

Nice story, good that you completed the mission. You don't have any numbers to work with though, on the HP estimate. "Crazy" 0 - 60 times, and, as noted, 135 mph with the wrong speedo gear. Plus, the 86 Mustangs came with an assortment of engines. Interesting that you went from EFI to Mikunis, are you just a carb guy or was that recommended. I know the stock EFI system is not really tunable for the modifications you made so that was probably the best way to get it done.

If ignition timing is off then all cylinders will be equally bad. Your timing numbers are in the right range for a smooth running engine, maybe not tuned for best performance, but still should run smoothly. Ignition timing is probably not the source of the problem. Injector imbalance is a possibility. Pop each injector plug off while it's running, one at time and see how the engine responds. You might find one or two that have no effect. That would be a clue.

Actually, you want to match the form of the exhaust manifold that you have. There are 280Z and 280ZX designs. The exhaust manifolds used on the stock P79 head engines (280ZX) are shorter than the 280Z manifolds (N42 and N47). If you get the wrong manifold it might fit the engine but you'll have to modify the transition to the exhaust piping. There should be a letter/number code on the manifold itself. Edit - actually you did ask for a ZX manifold so maybe you're already on it. Good luck.

Post the link. Who wants to spend time searching for a cheap Polish Nistune board on eBay?

"Rebuild" implies that you tore things down pretty far. Have you confirmed cam timing, reset valve lash, checked the cam for damaged lobes? It's not uncommon to damage a new cam.

When you do the typical conversion wiring, there are two hot wires left over. One is hot all the time, connected to battery positive, the other is hot when the key is On (maybe Accessory too). If you're just focused on connecting the wires that make the charging system work, you might leave those dangling. Two possible short circuits waiting to happen. I never figured out if they're fused or not, I just insulated the ends. Something to look at.

I saw those lips after I posted. Many people use a rubber snubber with the Techno Version mount, Maybe it's a little too wide for use with the GM mount. If you got the rubber diff mount with the R200, you could attach it and check its position over the crossmember to verify the diff's in the right spot. But your mustache bar looks correct and it's not going to move much. Check the fit of the GM mount holes over the diff holes side-to-side before you put things back together. I seem to remember needing to enlarge the GM mount holes to the inside. A round file worked. Look at Post #5 here if you want to compare TV dimensions to the original RT design. Notice the mounting area is different on the later cars also, at least one less lip, and maybe wider. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58895-what-is-the-deal-with-solid-diff-mounts/

There's three holes on each side of the TV RT mount, to mount it to the car body. Did you pick the wrong two? I don't know if it's possible, but there is another hole there. Looks like everything else is right.

You might find some diagrams in this sub-forum, or the answer directly - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ The turbo ECCS system is hard to work on. Nissan built an analyzer for it and therefore didn't put much in to the later Service Manuals. The 1981 Turbo Supplement has a good wiring diagram. Try that one. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html If you're on a phone and can't open big documents, you'll just have to ask better questions or hope someone feels generous. Good luck.

It's still in the link I provided. Do some work. Check the coil bracket for a silver cylinder. Then open the EFEC chapter to figure out what it is.

The ignition module is not on the ECU, it's by the fusebox. Above and forward. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Maybe it's the other end of the circuit, not the sensor end. A bad component that fails at high frequency. Have you tried the JimStim? Apparently, it replicates a clean signal from a variety of wheels. Looks like it was thought up and designed for exactly your problem. Not too spendy, especially considering the time, money, and effort you've already spent. http://jbperf.com/JimStim/

Good find. I assumed too much. Interesting thread. I learned something.

Large water filter? There's probably room for one down by the bottom hose. You'd have to do some research on rates and particle size. Of course, remove and rinse is the obvious first attempt. I think that fill and shake might be more effective than turn upside down and flush. You need to get the sand to one of the openings. Then it's up to your comfort level wondering if you got all of it out. Most of the sand will probably settle to the bottom of the radiator anyway.

He's still screwed. https://wwwapps.ups.com/ctc/request?loc=en_US&WT.svl=PNRO_L1