NewZed

Carter says that you have up to 24 inches from the bottom of the tank. I'm kind of surprised. http://carterfuelsystems.com/fuelpumps/_pdfs/training/InTank_Elec_FP_Inst.pdf On your installation - it's the vapor in a closed space that will cause the explosion. That looks like the typical boat bilge area accident waiting to happen. The shape of the spare wheel well will channel the blast up in to the hatch glass though, which will act as a pressure relief valve for the cabin. Looks scary.

Which part of "the rail" are you checking, inlet or outlet? You might have your lines backward, pumping in to the wrong side of the FPR.

Where are the engine pictures? That's the most interesting part.

You have the car, why don't you measure it instead?

You probably have a bad gauge. Fuel pressure would affect all cylinders, not just one. And, maybe it's a typo in your first post but pressure should be 36.3 psi, not 46.3, so 43 psi would be high. The odd cylinder still looks promising as the corporate culprit. Misses and dirty plugs go together. Forgot to say - I don't see distributor cap on your list. A bad or dirty cap can sometimes let spark jump to ground occasionally, giving a miss.

Looks like there's only about 12 3/8" inches to stuff an axle and adapters in to, for the 240Z's. Probably a little more room for the 280Z's. About 2/3 down the page - https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670 Excerpt: "In a R200 installtion, with the lower control arms about 7.5 degrees from parallel to the ground, the driver's side halfshaft's length is 12 3/8" while the passenger side halfshaft's length is 13 1/4". The driver's side halfshaft is almost bottomed out while this coil-over equipped 260Z is sitting at an unladen ride height of 6" at the rear. With the driver in the car and fuel on board, the driver's side halfshaft will be 1/8" from bottoming."

Sounds like you might have a ground loop happening. They're a little bit difficult to get under control, but at least you have a direction. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm Pin21 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin22 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin23 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black I'll leave you alone now...

Search "Vogtland".

Since you have signal, but no sync., and you're using the VR circuit, noise seems likely. The pots are designed to tune it out, to a certain extent. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm

Tony D added a bunch to his post. This could be a red herring, wild goose chase. If you lost drive because the tang slipped out of the notch you should see spin/wear marks on the end of the shaft from where it slipped out. How do the ends of the tang and notch look?

This picture look likes 5mm of possible difference. Looking at your 5mm to notch marking. I don't see a notch in the eBay picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-240Z-280ZX-Rare-Turbo-L28-L24-Oil-Pump-Gear-Drive-OEM-/151384028550?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233f30f586&vxp=mtr

Just an observation from an impartial observer, but you haven't really even described a problem, besides "get nothing" and "signal that doesn't stay sync'ed", and primary and secondary could mean many things. And your no punctuation writing style isn't going to draw many people in.

Added an edit to clarify my earlier clarification/summary (#28). Still seems like there's another design iteration that could give people everything they want. Interesting subject.

Don't the metal rings around the cylinders and the copper rings around the oil passages crush to fit? And work-harden when they do? Doesn't seem like it would work.

AZC and Silvermine are using the same basic design, that could allow the control arm structure to buckle and shorten under certain conditions of assembly and usage. T3 is using a design similar the tube80z design, but without the independent toe adjustment, basically more adjustable than stock, bit not as adjustable as tube80z's. Edit - actually, I think that the T3 design is essentially the same as tube80z's. Maybe even more rigid. Anyway, at least the pictures are all in one spot. From previous posts in this thread, plus T3's site: http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/suspension/rear-lower-control-arm-cnc-for-240z-260z-280z https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z Post #76 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62776-yet-another-rear-control-arm-design/page-4?hl=%20rear%20%20control Just to summarize, for clarity.

Checked/adjusted valve lash lately? Inspect the cam lobes carefully also, especially if you find one with excessive lash.

Bad hydraulic lash adjuster? May or may not be applicable to your engine. You should list the actual numbers for your cylinder pressure test, per cylinder, and also tell which cylinder has the darker plug. You might find some things correlating to one cylinder.

Maybe the chart is just listing the ratios the cars came with, nothing to do with with the differential component. Your logic seems reasonable. The 660 probably has the different size ring gear bolts. 650 seems more likely to be a bolt-in for the 3..9 280ZX diff. The holes will match the bolts. The years listed on the 660 product are later, in the 12mm bolt time-frame. That's a nice find on the chart, thanks for sharing that. Now if I can just figure out to save a Japanese PDF file...

Low fuel pressure comes to mind.

I think that he's saying that if there was no oil at the cam then there was probably no oil at the bearings. No oil > no lubrication > metal to metal contact > damage. Your first instinct was right - (I know, should have towed it). You saved $75 and will probably spend hundreds. For as cheap as it is, oil is probably the most important thing in an engine.

Thanks...

The ECU won't reflash. There's no EPROM chip.

Edited. Too mean. Had to add one more link. Probably a sign of the end... About 1/4 page down. Says he drove it down from Tokyo. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/04/nagoya-exciting-car-showdown-2012-pt-1/

Lithium ion batteries - http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/whitezombie.php

Sounds like you actually have a "no run" issue, not a "no start". The older cars have two wires to the ballast, one to bypass the resistor for starting and the other to pass through the resistor for running. You might have just the Starting wire connected. Attached a 1976 picture to illustrate.