NewZed

Sounds like you actually have a "no run" issue, not a "no start". The older cars have two wires to the ballast, one to bypass the resistor for starting and the other to pass through the resistor for running. You might have just the Starting wire connected. Attached a 1976 picture to illustrate.

Here's a 185/50/16 on 16x7.5, with technique. And they report fail fail ... not even stretch. Seriously though, it's surprising what will come up on Google if you just search the size, like 185/50/16 on 16x8.

Pressure comes from flow restriction. The other way to lose pressure is for the pump to be moving oil just fine, but the oil to be flowing too freely through some area it shouldn't. A crack or a hole or a misplaced bearing.

Pretty sure that nothing is worth swapping from the 300 to the 240, except the R200. The 240 probably has an R180. You'll need more parts to do the swap, it's not really a throw-in job. You didn't post any pictures so it's not clear that the brown you mentioned is even on a car.

Thanks for the pictures, those are good enough. There are still well-established name brand springs being sold out there that don't do what they're advertised to do, or give odd results, like the Eibach progressive rate springs. People are still buying those, installing them, then asking why the front is higher than the back. Always good to confirm that products do what the manufacturer thinks they're going to do, in my opinion anyway. Mistakes get made.

Just looking for the real world number. The ad copy says 1.25", on brandcarparts. Great to have another option.

Any idea if the springs do much lowering? Your picture looks kind of stockish in height.

You're asking for suggestions and a little help but no pictures or descriptions. And the 1991 300ZX had short nose differentials. Problem? Photobucket is terrible for actually looking at pictures. Might be fine for storing, but viewing takes forever.

On my system, Windows 7 with Chrome, you can right click to search the internet for an image. There does seem to be some overlap in use of that image. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Thick-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-For-Nissan-RB20-RB25-RB25DET-NEW-DESIGN-/181319905462 https://www.google.com/search?tbs=sbi:AMhZZivff0zzTOv2fE7SDI9-yYg7PHzdmO8WOm8RVjjVRqUWaZ19QV-VF6png_1iqY-NlrUl1ftef05aCgF6ub5ioRMxvl46WjqCqqGvNoBS_1fR95nZ_1vkt1i1CugT2w3o_12_1YjUm-TZRW8GpaCEmdNQuNko2gullyAHDvFbqdRqF41gFO4HE8Eh5ffXIIHwgTA-EbypbKk-FHrsIBc6hKp3ZARqgfLTyR1aoyW-WfLMg_1YOumGqAnHOyDOw_1KHImltAdX5RugJATyYVSVb2Uv3hvydI5xmvhynuJt6XQZeD9zqOUqphZ_1tTlofl-eyvTTNOeEoTFe57T_1duA2bHV-ajR_1zkMkYnHoClrh1raVob7n3vWmkbh2c-aHOk5LL8eFvPBlEakk9VtNEVpQMn_1-pkHZFVC4h9esRNZHn36LvMTlas1e8fLOrKuj89uhnZ_1AgHVsEe7yPBDW0MR8pMMq74pA5K17dvm3aVUAbXJu8V9vZKN33fmI5tLNdWC1yALSDw09y0JX4_1U5wtYy6pUB8DAmpAtTFsPuMru5DPj7LkyfOcN872rm6it5d2HljJQnnFxIQDYsmkOuzWtz_14UsXCW35pafAk4jAivylYMOX4jCeSSw4sZDpTiPUkmeI82HIqoTkfM8_1NOxk2XEAwRek8oZxSBhyf-GgSjNVuT-9qkAo9K728cxdI-V686f2H6SL2g7J9nZy-Y-joeYbaZkRNOb-7X-qcCGD6eB1iGbBDTFTfoKk0OSgBq_1p64yc6SCP23YZiMYmHiY_1WIsATd-isfDugSS0Q2ZMsUxedpCI_1r1YlMXNV8hIQ9nYHbJURglpMr1fU2qT6CkAD0d0V_17eBvDUz_16qsRu6_18W36AOj6EcrmiMhRjxoK1_1cMBb3X7OaQCVbgy4nl1za-ZRfUD_1CNCooo8wMiI_1gmK1FTOdBo2FN_1Bw82UpObqE7BWprJY25uRh3zv6JPE6RGRyKIHQUrgaskFn52fq1kA3zJgWjMHYiJ6gBbS-JAaxQPwbeqQQzMl73xaX8Eb4maZwhhAOwg_1JKr1JzYg-M0IdHiPi1xJbXg6P_1AJ3SQJcPaI6u85r1k62iV1MmO3MyQ30yukdRqk68-L8iJyf1t2J9V3Sa2342NckOr5zIu5VTaDdN8elu2PR-LQj38iHF5B5yqtWzI_1TdR7V7shk8CAJDO1uDo-yXcOFZ9wc2WgSfgBob_1H6ozdYM8wbe0Gh_1Q5beMxV5eGlZ7M483b1EXJpu6JPWaAtFrxEDfftiRtn1i62WatXYhO5Lma2QHbQ9e08erh_1FPux26GQypXDzyo-xru6tlbPFpbpW-OWtqEZXnn4JHxWCX-qEfUqSOzKEu4eFqaw0yB1PH6lgQSyxQAx1aen8Uzpx1XfWhlTfqSYKO06KwMUSMshNduT6p_1Y5-_1fcVq4y2Lkflrm3CMfwE8hIAaRHNVurLhWuLbMp1HoJzLv85_1vRsXG7ESHREK

You mean this engine runs now? Or do you have a stock engine and a bunch of parts? Or are you just using some of those parts? 3rd gear grind is pretty common on the old transmissions. Redline MT90 fixed one of mine that did that. There are a couple of good threads here about turboing - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ and there's a whole sub-forum on Megasquirt.

It's not his car, it's his son's. Notice the tow hook, and the 2" ground clearance. It's a parking lot poser. Stretch is in these days. The most painful part of the whole experience will be the single touch of a curb taking the shine off of a new Diamond Racing wheel. But, kids need their space, to learn in. Here is the proper site, with some choice examples of what could be - http://www.stancenation.com/2013/12/30/one-mean-s15-takashi-kusunokis-silvia-s15/ http://www.stancenation.com/2014/08/10/royal-fitment-invasion-photo-coverage/ http://www.stancenation.com/

Seems like a radiator swap might be a better idea. Odd logic.

No. Don't do anything until you figure out which cable is the positive one and which is negative. Then make sure that the positive cable is connected to the battery terminal that has a "+" beside and the negative cable to the one that has a "-" beside it. You should find someone to help you out. This is very basic stuff, but you can do a lot of damage if you get it wrong.

You're actually pretty lucky that it's driveable. Bad things happen when these cars sit. There are two paths you could take - 1. Drive the piss out of it and see if things change. They do seem to like hard work. 2. Work your way through the Engine fuel chapter of the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/), and/or the Electronic Fuel Injection Guide (http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html). Also, for some reason, many of the old EFI systems tend to run lean. The spitting and popping is typical. You could put a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit and dial in some extra fuel. The phone is going to be a problem for you though. Good luck.

One way to get close to zero is to set the camshaft sprocket notch on the groove on the compression stroke (lobes up). The damper pulley notch should be close to the zero line on the marker, visible for sure. If it's not, you might have damper problems. Also, if you get the marks all lined up, pop the distributor cap and make sure that you're rotor is pointing at the correct #1 plug wire, and that it's the one your light is on. Maybe you have some firing order weirdness.

Bad battery, dirty battery terminals, bad charger. Doesn't sound like a major problem. Are you connecting the charger to the proper terminals? Could be why you only get 12 on the voltmeter, it's not actually charging. The newer chargers can tell when they're connected backward and just won't do anything. And the Z battery cable colors are often backward. Check for the + and - signs on the battery. Clean the terminals. Make sure you have good battery cables.

You can get a digital thermometer with a small fast-acting probe for about $12 at Bed Bath and Beyond. Stick it in the coolant and see what it says. Overall, you're doing way too much guessing, with the temperature and the timing, and coil and the plugs (both of those guesses are way off).

These things are all separate from the engine control harness. You'll probably find that they work fine. The factory switches are a little bit different from many switches, for example the headlights are controlled by grounding through the dimmer switch. You'll run in to a mental rat's nest trying to redesign a new system. As noted, you'll need to understand before you replace anyway. Make what you have work before you start tearing things apart.

Define "doesn't want to start".

Read the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. The different years of 280Z's control the fuel pump power in different ways, but none of them power the pump with just the key on. Engine running or Start only. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Congratulations on fixing it with no replies. I almost opened the thread but the title was so weird it looked like a potential quagmire.

From the better front picture that's obviously a Z transmission. Probably the stock 4 speed. No signs of V8 occupancy. Looks like the wiring harness is still intact, that might even be the stock external voltage regulator on the fender well.

He's not using a stock L28ET CAS he's modified with a later disc, I'm guessing, from what he wrote above. You mean the disc with the holes in it, right? There are a variety out there with holes in different positions,from what I've been able to figure out. But if the one you have is that close, 12 degrees, you probably won't find better since you're off the stock application grid. You'll probably have to mess around with the drive gear as suggested or just modify the hold-down clamp like you described. I'm assuming you did something like cgsheen describes in Post #20, here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111877-north-idaho-eastern-washington-280z-l28et-wiring-gurus-or-anyone-willing-to-help-a-knucklehead-out/?do=findComment&comment=1052558

You popped the cap after it was hot? I can't do that on my car, coolant will overflow. And the temperature gauges and senders on these cars aren't known for accuracy. I would get an accurate measurement before going crazy. The steady temperature would be a good thing if it's in the right range.

I've read that Mopar engines will slide in pretty easily using the stock mounts, with no cutting or welding. SBC is most common but who knows. That transmission does look a little like a Z transmission though. Take a picture of the shifter through the hole in the top if it's exposed.