NewZed

Working on these old cars requires some discipline and effort to get things right. I can't help but notice the degradation of this thread as it progresses, both in writing style and accomplishments. It's just not good. You've pulled the tank and the pump and you still don't even know if the pump works. And who wants to read text-speak, really? Anybody? Bump the effort level back up to Post #1. Edit - actually I may have offended some people that do text. I know that when I text a message I actually hit the little button for capitals. So "text-speak" is probably the wrong term. I don't know what the word would be for what's going on here.... Post #1 sample - "Good Morning fellow Z'ers, as you can see im having issues with my Z let me say i looooove this car so much but i haven't been able to enjoy it since I’ve owned it. The previous owners was a nice couple in Wisconsin and all they really asked was that i drove the car and enjoyed it "which i plan to do once its running good", anyway onto my issues let me list what i have done and i hope someone can point me in the right direction on what could be the issue. Oh and if anyone lives near or passes through Augusta, GA and wouldn’t mind putting an eye on it that be awesome also." Post #16 (what's different?) - "yeah tonight I pulled the fuel pump and dropped the tank the way I see it might as well clean it to be extra safe in the long run an you know what emptied the tank and a first fuel looked normal, when it got to the last bits was like sludge so glad I did that. However working 9 hrs then pulling a tank at night alone was a little overwhelming those old clamps was no joke lol. tomorrow after work ill clean the tank and test the pump and pull the old lines so that I can replace them just to be safe. and ill report back with results."

The "one more thing" and "I forgot to mention" are progress killers. You just need to test each component, one at a time, and make sure they're doing what they're supposed to do. Dropping the fuel tank when you're not even sure if the fuel pump works doesn't make sense.

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were saying. Looks like you're only reading atmospheric. No connection to intake vacuum. good luck.

The A in MAP is for Absolute. That includes atmospheric. Copied the sentence below from one of numerous web sites. "The standard atmosphere (symbol: atm) is a unit of pressure and is defined as being equal to 101,325 Pa or 101.325 kPa.[1][2]" Source (I have no connection,it just looks authoritative) - https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Atmospheric_pressure.html

The fuel pump doesn't run when the key is On unless things have been messed with. The pump gets power when the key is at Start, or when the engine is running. So, what you saw is correct for an unmolested stock 1978 280Z. Take the small wire off of the starter solenoid (it's a male-female press fit), place it where it won't ground out and cause a spark, then turn the key to Start. The starter won't turn the engine, but the fuel pump will get power. Be ready for fuel to flow. Edit - the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter will tell you how things are supposed to work. It can take some time to absorb it all but if you go back to it regularly, things will start to make sense. For example, "where is the cold start injector?" It's described, with a drawing, in the Engine Fuel chapter. Go look it up. It's also mentioned in the first few pages of the chapter. You'll waste a lot of time and money if you don't take a methodical approach.

Stop dropping parts when you're putting your engine back together? That was actually a pretty good catch back in Post #8 then. There have been posts about pinning the gear on the shaft, I believe. I think that Tony D has posted on it, if you want to search. Or he might be back with the fix.

There is no set of resistors under the distributor. Check the Electrical Chapter of the FSM to see what you might be thinking of. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Edit - tylernumber, Nissan removed the ballast for 1978.

You mean the three of us; me, dpuma8, and danigirlz? Or everybody on Hybridz? Just wondering if you're above just us three, or everyone. Why are you going to two pumps if one has been working so great? And the only difference between your ingenuity and stock is the point of fuel pickup? An exposed fuel pickup doesn't seem like an improvement over the protected stock point. Looks like you've gone backward. And then another idea, untried. I don't see any true value at all in your post besides an attempt to pump up your self-image.

What color are they? That would be important. What's your favorite color?

You have to save whatever image you're working with as a file, then Attach it using the Choose File - Attach This File buttons. There's a tool in the later versions of Windows called the Snipping Tool. It will allow you to choose anything on your screen and save it as a small file. Pretty handy. It's in the Accessories folder, under Programs.

The side note implies that the engine is flooded. Total opposite of what your first description suggested. Pull the plugs and see if they're wet or dry. " I do have both the FSM and Fi bible and have read them religiously " - stop reading and start doing. Good luck. Tuning and swapping are two different things. This is an easy problem.

Pull a vacuum line on the intake and squirt in some starting fluid. If it starts, you have a fuel supply or injection problem.

More detail needed. Did the engine run before the maintenance?

Does anyone know the word that combines oblivious with ironic? There has to be one, I just can't think of it.

Seems like the way the parts are mounted would have a big effect on longevity. A small amount of mis-alignment probably puts a lot more stress on things. The guys that have their parts last probably have perfect alignment and good solid mounting. No flexing or moving to allow things to get twisted and stressed.

Here's a couple of threads showing engine bay mounting and mounting by the fuel tank. If you sealed the top of the wheel well from the cabin and put a couple of large vents in the sides of it, you'd probably be fine. It's just the high pressure fittings in the cabin that look dangerous. I'm sure that there are people running things like that but I wouldn't. One leaky fitting and there's puddle of fuel in the cabin with you. Even a tiny leak will stink up the cabin. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110485-bcbroncos-surge-tank-install-and-use/ by the fuel tank http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115077-280z-fuel-tank-vs-surge-tank-for-efirb-swap/ Post #9, engine bay http://themidnightmechanic.wordpress.com/page/2/ engine bay

Sorry, I missed the "coming soon" part. Is it a turbocharger (supercharger) or some sort of belt-driven unit. Couldn't see through the hardware. p.s. you know you can't sell without donating first, right? Just to help you avoid some disappearing posts.

Carter says that you have up to 24 inches from the bottom of the tank. I'm kind of surprised. http://carterfuelsystems.com/fuelpumps/_pdfs/training/InTank_Elec_FP_Inst.pdf On your installation - it's the vapor in a closed space that will cause the explosion. That looks like the typical boat bilge area accident waiting to happen. The shape of the spare wheel well will channel the blast up in to the hatch glass though, which will act as a pressure relief valve for the cabin. Looks scary.

Which part of "the rail" are you checking, inlet or outlet? You might have your lines backward, pumping in to the wrong side of the FPR.

Where are the engine pictures? That's the most interesting part.

You have the car, why don't you measure it instead?

You probably have a bad gauge. Fuel pressure would affect all cylinders, not just one. And, maybe it's a typo in your first post but pressure should be 36.3 psi, not 46.3, so 43 psi would be high. The odd cylinder still looks promising as the corporate culprit. Misses and dirty plugs go together. Forgot to say - I don't see distributor cap on your list. A bad or dirty cap can sometimes let spark jump to ground occasionally, giving a miss.

Looks like there's only about 12 3/8" inches to stuff an axle and adapters in to, for the 240Z's. Probably a little more room for the 280Z's. About 2/3 down the page - https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670 Excerpt: "In a R200 installtion, with the lower control arms about 7.5 degrees from parallel to the ground, the driver's side halfshaft's length is 12 3/8" while the passenger side halfshaft's length is 13 1/4". The driver's side halfshaft is almost bottomed out while this coil-over equipped 260Z is sitting at an unladen ride height of 6" at the rear. With the driver in the car and fuel on board, the driver's side halfshaft will be 1/8" from bottoming."

Sounds like you might have a ground loop happening. They're a little bit difficult to get under control, but at least you have a direction. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm Pin21 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin22 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin23 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black I'll leave you alone now...

Search "Vogtland".